My pryo has a mind of its own it only work when i let off the trottle but when i get on it it bounces all over the place but sometimes it just reads 0 and when i let off the trottle it gives me the reading.i checked the leads at the probe and they are tight and not coroded so i pulled the probe out and started the truck and the pryo guage was steady at 100 weather i reved it up or if i idled it. do you think that the probe could be bad and is there any way to check the probe.I really need my pryo to drive my truck the way it was meant to be driven thanks [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
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94.5 F-250 5sp 3.55 3inch down pipe pyro boost gauges 285\85 bfg mud luk smfw cluth pedal mod Edge Evo Fuel pressure BB 3 body lift Bronco tank K&N cone air filter Rancho shocks 180ccDIY injecters 2 D8 batteries and 2 1750 powerinverters and much more to come
Just a thought, but in my experience when electrical gauges do really goofy things like this it is that they are loosing ground. Not to say the bad connection isn't in the gauge itself, but ground is the first place I would look.
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1997 PSD 3/4 ton 4x4 SC LWB SRW; 5 spd; 3:55; K&N open element/homemade intake; gutted EBPV piston, plugged hole; 3 in. downpipe; SCMT 1705; shimmed to 70 psi; 120,000; TTB DiPricol 0-60 white face boost gauge, DiPricol 0-1600 white face pyrometer, SOLD in between gauges for now; A-Pillar mount for now. DIY 160cc Injectors.DIY IDM mod. ValAir O-FE w/3400# plate; Front and rear tank filler neck mods
Has it gotten wet lately, Ive gone through three probes in the last month, #1 was car wash, #2 and 3 driving in the rain the fourth one i routed the wires into the cab through the grommet that the gas pedal works through in the floor board coiled everything up nicely and put it under the carpet. Bullydog has been fair to deal with but not the best with whats going on. Anyways thats what happend to me.
Dan
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1997 PSD #34 15.093 @ 88.63mph(on BDPstage1s) Beans electric fuel, FFD 230cc stroked acodes TWildman 6 position Tymar intake, 17*hpop, IDM mod, diamond back 4" turbo back dual exhaust (3" DP), Arp studs, comp valvesprings, 7.3 intercooler, Rough Country 4" lift, 315 Cepeks FC 2 on MT classics, Bdog electrolum gauges (pre turbo pyro), E4OD auto, 4.10LS, TC ind light, DIY EBPV brake w/ ind lights, CCV mod, Richter69 TC and accum body, 203* tstat, clear turn signals, toolbox with light, ford manual hub conv., ext trim gone.
Highest hp 362, highest tq 723 corrected onstage 1s
future mods: bigoil, 2nd fuelpump, H2E
Work truck: 03 7.3 excab lb F250
New Family rig: 2002 7.3 Excursion edge evo II, mbrp 4" tb exhaust, tymar intake Big_Dan97's Photos
Thermocouples are usually pretty durable, except for the wires running to them. What brand/type of Pyro is it? Some are d'Arsonval movements and only have the two thermocouple connections to the gauge. Others are amplified air-core designs, which require power to the gauge. If yours is an amplified design, check your power and ground for intermittents, even temporarily run dedicated wires from your fuse panel to eliminate the possibility of an intermittent connection.
Regards,
Michael Pliska
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ISSPRO Engineering Manager
1995 F350 PSD Crew Cab Dually, 255k miles (Ford rebuilt E4OD at 226k)
ISSPRO Prototype Performax gauges, Tymar Intake, Gutted EBPV, Tymar 3x4" downpipe, Tymar 5" exhaust, Cat's hiding in the shed, Edge Evolution on "Tow", Tricumulator springs and Accumulator Valve, Tru-Cool 4590 Trans Cooler, Lock-Right Locker
1998 S&S 9.5' slide-in camper
33' enclosed tag trailer with 2 doorslammer drag cars (73 Vega Super-Gas & 74 Vega ET Super-Pro)
1992 GMC Typhoon, 1973 Chevy Blazer with Pontiac 400, 1973 Trans-Am 455
NRA member and certified firearms instructor
GOA member
IDPA member
Where the thermo lead wires hook into the cb wires............. Undo them and put some grease on the ring terminals and tighen. Your problem will go away.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
I cut the shrink wrap to look at the screw conetions and they were dry and no corrossion the shrink wrap was doing it job it is an autometer sport comp .i will check the gound and power wire tommror but as soon as i let off the trottle i will get a reading but as soon as i give it more it just bounces all over and then reads -500 [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
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94.5 F-250 5sp 3.55 3inch down pipe pyro boost gauges 285\85 bfg mud luk smfw cluth pedal mod Edge Evo Fuel pressure BB 3 body lift Bronco tank K&N cone air filter Rancho shocks 180ccDIY injecters 2 D8 batteries and 2 1750 powerinverters and much more to come
They may look good, but if you take apart and put back together it will fix it. Always does on mine.
Are you sure you have a actual ground and power? I suspect the power is only for the light in the pod. The pyro creates its own signal which is very small hence it does not take much to disturb it.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
came from the car wash and it was fine for the drive home i will remove and reinstall the probe wires and see how it goes [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
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94.5 F-250 5sp 3.55 3inch down pipe pyro boost gauges 285\85 bfg mud luk smfw cluth pedal mod Edge Evo Fuel pressure BB 3 body lift Bronco tank K&N cone air filter Rancho shocks 180ccDIY injecters 2 D8 batteries and 2 1750 powerinverters and much more to come
remvoed and reinstaled the probe leads and same thing wil be sending it to autometer
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94.5 F-250 5sp 3.55 3inch down pipe pyro boost gauges 285\85 bfg mud luk smfw cluth pedal mod Edge Evo Fuel pressure BB 3 body lift Bronco tank K&N cone air filter Rancho shocks 180ccDIY injecters 2 D8 batteries and 2 1750 powerinverters and much more to come
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DiPricol 0-60 white face boost gauge, DiPricol 0-1600 white face pyrometer, SOLD in between gauges for now; A-Pillar mount for now. DIY 160cc Injectors.DIY IDM mod. ValAir O-FE w/3400# plate; Front and rear tank filler neck mods
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