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Power Strokes 1994-1997 Upgrades and Aftermarket Upgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1994-1997 Ford F-Series with Power Stroke engine.

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Old 01-20-2010, 11:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
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rear disc brake conversion

I spent mon and tues working on my TSM rear disc brake conversion for my 1997 F-350 CC. It went pretty well, I haven't hooked up the e-brake's because I have one cable that is froze up, so I need to get a new one. I really like the feel although I havn't had much of chance to try them out. I will try and get some pictures posted. I had a lot of trouble with the drums locking up from dirt.
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Old 01-26-2010, 02:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I plan on doing the TCM rear brake mod soon. I checked my local NAPA dealer for the calipers and pads. Looks like the pads may be hard to come buy since they arn't an item they have listed.
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Old 01-26-2010, 04:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Do a complete write up on this! I'm very interested in the swap. Pics, tech, yada, yada!!
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Old 01-27-2010, 07:11 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I've had the TSM kit(s) on my truck longer than anyone else and if you're looking for increased stopping power, you're better off converting to Hydroboost rather than disc brakes.

If you do decide to go with the TSM kit, wanna sell me everything you take off? I wanna go back to the drum setup.

Cheers from Claremore, OK!
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Old 01-27-2010, 10:36 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveBey View Post
I've had the TSM kit(s) on my truck longer than anyone else and if you're looking for increased stopping power, you're better off converting to Hydroboost rather than disc brakes.

If you do decide to go with the TSM kit, wanna sell me everything you take off? I wanna go back to the drum setup.

Cheers from Claremore, OK!
Dave
Did you lose pedal with the TSM setup? I looking for ease of repair with the disc setup. My drums constantly fall out of adjustment, and I hate drums brakes.
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Old 01-27-2010, 12:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveBey View Post
I've had the TSM kit(s) on my truck longer than anyone else and if you're looking for increased stopping power, you're better off converting to Hydroboost rather than disc brakes.

If you do decide to go with the TSM kit, wanna sell me everything you take off? I wanna go back to the drum setup.

Cheers from Claremore, OK!
Dave
x's 2--and i dont have hydro--but mine will stop pronto with the stock brakes--thats a future project tho--
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94 f250 idi turbo sc e4od alum fac rims 149,289 --dana 60 frt with posi--10.25 rear w/posi--shouldnt get stuck!! ats turbo 3" parts on--what a diff from stock turbo!!!!!--- also 96 F250 with 305,000 is fixed!!-- 7.3 rattler-also 85 6.9-needs new engine!! tired!!
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Old 01-27-2010, 03:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Pardon my wandering over into this forum.

With that TSM conversion, you guys are still using the prop valve spec'd out for a rear drum brake right? Or did they have you change out the Prop?

I know the '97 F-350 had a 400/.61 prop. The front and rear pressures are the same up to 400 psi, then pressures added above that ceiling are at 61% of the input.
Code:
Front  Rear
   0       0
 200     200
 400     400
 600     522
 800     570
1000     663
1200     728
1400     810
1600     882
1800     960
2000    1034
That prop is great for a duo-servo rear drum brake that will get more effective at higher pressures, but a disc brake is linear.
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Old 01-27-2010, 05:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FMTRVT View Post
Pardon my wandering over into this forum.

With that TSM conversion, you guys are still using the prop valve spec'd out for a rear drum brake right? Or did they have you change out the Prop?

I know the '97 F-350 had a 400/.61 prop. The front and rear pressures are the same up to 400 psi, then pressures added above that ceiling are at 61% of the input.
Code:
 
Front  Rear
   0       0
 200     200
 400     400
 600     522
 800     570
1000     663
1200     728
1400     810
1600     882
1800     960
2000    1034
That prop is great for a duo-servo rear drum brake that will get more effective at higher pressures, but a disc brake is linear.
Hey Jack, Do you know where the valve is in our system? I went to rear disc, hydroboost, super duty M/C, super duty pump and bypassed the RABS valve and my truck wont stop o'yeah 4 sets of pads. Im ready to go back to drums. Thanks
Frank
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1997 F-250 H.D 4X4 CREW CAB SHORT BED, MBRP 4" TURBO BACK, 16K REESE, 3:55, Auto Meter Sport Comp gauges, tri pillar, 11\16\05 BDP STAGE 1 INJECTORS, TS 6 POSITION CHIP, TYMAR INTAKE 3/27/06 B.T.S. , SIRIUS RADIO, BDP IDM, 4" 350 BLOCKS,160,000 SP Exhaust Brake, 7/4/07 6.0 Intercooler, 7/29/07 Blackbirds Customs rear disc 9/11/07 King Pin Dana 60, SKY 3" RSK, V code 5200 lbs SD springs, 10/17/07 Pro Comp Xtreme's 315x75x16 on Pro Comp 1059's 8"x16" 1/27/08 DIY Fuel System, Running on DSE since March 2008
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121 TP 130rwh 250 avon
04 CRF250 mine....Gone
02 CR80 sons...Gone
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Old 01-27-2010, 06:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The proportioning valve is "integrated" with the brake master cylinder.

When I converted to Hydro-Boost, I even swapped the brake master cylinder fluid control valves for the one used on the F-Super Duty which has 4-wheel disc brakes from the factory.

Cheers from Claremore, OK!
Dave
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~~NTxPSA - Hold my beer and watch this.~~
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Old 01-27-2010, 06:52 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveBey View Post
The proportioning valve is "integrated" with the brake master cylinder.

When I converted to Hydro-Boost, I even swapped the brake master cylinder fluid control valves for the one used on the F-Super Duty which has 4-wheel disc brakes from the factory.

Cheers from Claremore, OK!
Dave
you mind clarifying this more???--i found a total hydro setup--for 125.00, but i dont want to put it on, and have less than i do now!!! and i got good brakes--but want better--
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Old 01-27-2010, 08:13 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Exclamation

this thread attracted my attention because I have read several posts that said that the rear disc brakes makes a NIGHT and DAY difference.
I need more brake power and was thinking to convert to hydroboost. Dave, do you have any write up about this with #parts, etc?

Thanks.
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Old 01-27-2010, 08:24 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MX_STROKER View Post
this thread attracted my attention because I have read several posts that said that the rear disc brakes makes a NIGHT and DAY difference.
I need more brake power and was thinking to convert to hydroboost. Dave, do you have any write up about this with #parts, etc?

Thanks.
The hydroboost is simple, just make sure you get the push rod with the unit. I think I used a 1997 Super Duty = 450 to look up the parts. I trashed all my old drum parts so I need to gather up everything to go back to drums, I pull a trailer 6 days a week in the summer and my trailer brakes are stopping me. Anyone have a complete 10.25 with 3:55's they want to sell? Thanks

Frank
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1997 F-250 H.D 4X4 CREW CAB SHORT BED, MBRP 4" TURBO BACK, 16K REESE, 3:55, Auto Meter Sport Comp gauges, tri pillar, 11\16\05 BDP STAGE 1 INJECTORS, TS 6 POSITION CHIP, TYMAR INTAKE 3/27/06 B.T.S. , SIRIUS RADIO, BDP IDM, 4" 350 BLOCKS,160,000 SP Exhaust Brake, 7/4/07 6.0 Intercooler, 7/29/07 Blackbirds Customs rear disc 9/11/07 King Pin Dana 60, SKY 3" RSK, V code 5200 lbs SD springs, 10/17/07 Pro Comp Xtreme's 315x75x16 on Pro Comp 1059's 8"x16" 1/27/08 DIY Fuel System, Running on DSE since March 2008
2004 Pitbull Motorsports rigid chopper...Traded on 2010 F-250 5/30/14
121 TP 130rwh 250 avon
04 CRF250 mine....Gone
02 CR80 sons...Gone
03 XR100 daughters..Gone
425 Polaris magnum
500 Polaris sportsman and 300 lakota everyone
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2010 F-250 4 door 6.4 with all the fixins
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Old 01-27-2010, 08:42 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by DIESELDUTTON View Post
The hydroboost is simple, just make sure you get the push rod with the unit. I think I used a 1997 Super Duty = 450 to look up the parts. I trashed all my old drum parts so I need to gather up everything to go back to drums, I pull a trailer 6 days a week in the summer and my trailer brakes are stopping me. Anyone have a complete 10.25 with 3:55's they want to sell? Thanks

Frank
Frank, Thanks.
Oh, BTW I want bad a CC short bed. I like your rig.
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Old 01-27-2010, 09:55 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 94_turbo View Post
you mind clarifying this more???--i found a total hydro setup--for 125.00, but i dont want to put it on, and have less than i do now!!! and i got good brakes--but want better--
Fluid Control Valve, Brake Master Cylinder
Quote:
Originally Posted by MX_STROKER View Post
Dave, do you have any write up about this with #parts, etc?
You're basically replacing the factory vacuum booster/master cylinder assembly with the factory Hydro-Boost/master cylinder assembly. You'll also have to replace the power steering pump and the power steering hoses.

Steering and Hydro-Boost Plumbing

Power Brake Booster: E8TZ-2005-B
Brake Master Cylinder Fluid Control Valve: E7TZ-2C161-A
Power Steering Pump: F1TZ-3A674-DBRM
Power Steerting Return Line Hose: E8TZ-3A713-B
Power Steering Right Turn Pressure Hose: F4TZ-3A717-A
Power Steering Left Turn Pressure Hose: F4TZ-3A714-A
Power Steering Return Hose (Steering Gear-to-Pump): F4TZ-3A713-E
Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir: E8TZ-2L454-A

While I did not use a Ford brake master cylinder, the part numbers I have are:
Brake Master Cylinder (w/Speed Control): F4TZ-2140-C
Brake Master Cylinder (w/o Speed Control): F4TZ-2140-D

Cheers from Claremore, OK!
Dave
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DZLJIM 3:16
~~NTxPSA - Hold my beer and watch this.~~
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Old 01-27-2010, 10:05 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Dave,

From what F-SD did you get the master from?

Frank,

The prop valve on the '97 is screwed into the master cylinder rear brake port, an aluminum hex body. Props can be exchanged with other props of different values, but the port is not the same thread as the brake tube, so it can't be pulled and the tube inserted. Ford had some vehicles with a empty prop housing, so it was just a pass through when no proportioning was needed. I didn't retain that data when my facility was closed.

The GM caliper has plenty of piston size though. Here is some data from both 1997 and 1999 F-350 test trucks. I included a conversion of the piston sizes to overall surface area, including a line for the GM caliper. Without proportioning of the rear hydraulics, there should be plenty of clamping force on the rear brakes.

I'm not sure what friction material your getting for the GM caliper, though. OE it probably came with DM 128 FE, which was a semi metallic but it had a decreasing friction range with more temperature, shown in the FE designation.

The D52/D122 pad design was relatively high in production, mostly as the D22 on the front brake of pickups (K10/K15). Companies like Hawk do make a high friction pad for it, which may be something to look at if your not getting good braking without a prop valve. And may be a better choice then removing the prop. But I'd probably end up putting the same friction on the front if a rear friction change brings you into a more comfortable deceleration rate for a given pedal effort.
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Last edited by FMTRVT; 02-04-2012 at 10:43 AM.
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