I had my truck in the for sale section, now I can't find my post, and that's OK, because I've decided to keep it. The fuel mileage isn't bad for a 1-ton truck, and I like the amount of room I've got in it.
I've been wishing for a high speed rear end and a flat bed.
I know the bed can be changed (but suggestions on where to get one are gratefully accepted). I have the 410 rear end, can I get a 355, or something even higher?
I never tow over about 7,000 pounds. I'd really like it if the five speed worked like a five speed, as it is I never use first and fifth isn't high enough.
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Charlie Brown, North Alabama
'97 F-350 Crew Cab, 5 speed, Dually. Pretty Stock. Traded
'07 GMC Sierra 1500 Crew Cab
Try to find someone on here to trade, that would be the cheapest route, as for the flatbed's, I have been seriously looking at the Bradfords, they are pretty sweet looking
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yes you can put 355 in...I've even seen a guy on here with 3.08 I think [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
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I have 3:55's, I think for a some time tower I would say they are the best, as far as get up and go I can smoke a comparible 4:10 truck empty since I can stay in the turbo and subsequently power band longer. I would say anthing lower that that would be absolute overkill, stock I could get over 21 on the highway if I babied it, I know average about 16 or 17, but a gasser with my power would probably get 7 to 8, or less.
As far as towing, the biggest load of towed with it was 10-12k, and it had NO problem with it, and still got good mileage.
I still don't use first a whole lot, it is geared very low intentanally to get heavy loads moving, so unloaded you probably won't use it much, I only do taking off on hills, or wet ground. Have to slip clutch too much on hills, and on wet roads taking off in 2nd it is VERY easy to obliterate rear tires...
I know they are expensive, but an overdrive unit would be the ticket, then you would have best of both worlds, towing power, or mileage power. If you have too high gears behind a stroke you will only burn more fuel cause you will have to keep it spooled to maintain speed.
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1997 PSD 3/4 ton 4x4 SC LWB SRW; 5 spd; 3:55; K&N open element/homemade intake; gutted EBPV piston, plugged hole; 3 in. downpipe; SCMT 1705; shimmed to 70 psi; 120,000; TTB DiPricol 0-60 white face boost gauge, DiPricol 0-1600 white face pyrometer, SOLD in between gauges for now; A-Pillar mount for now. DIY 160cc Injectors.DIY IDM mod. ValAir O-FE w/3400# plate; Front and rear tank filler neck mods
I would love an overdrive unit, but that's way out of my price range. I would think I could get rearend changed for a lot less than an overdrive would cost. I'm guessing I could get the rearend and the flatbed for what the overdrive would cost.
Johndeerebones, how many rpm are you running at 70 mph?
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Charlie Brown, North Alabama
'97 F-350 Crew Cab, 5 speed, Dually. Pretty Stock. Traded
'07 GMC Sierra 1500 Crew Cab
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I would love an overdrive unit, but that's way out of my price range. I would think I could get rearend changed for a lot less than an overdrive would cost. I'm guessing I could get the rearend and the flatbed for what the overdrive would cost.
Johndeerebones, how many rpm are you running at 70 mph?
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You are right depending on how good you are at dealing.
My speedo is a few percent off, but at 770 in OD I am running a little over 2000 rpm's.
For a comparison on a hard acceleration run I can run 65 in third before the rpms scare me, but I'm pretty brave on the tach [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
Oh, I also run 265-75 tires, so a little taller than stock..
I get my best mileage at 65 and down, but you get run over on the highway around here at that.
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1997 PSD 3/4 ton 4x4 SC LWB SRW; 5 spd; 3:55; K&N open element/homemade intake; gutted EBPV piston, plugged hole; 3 in. downpipe; SCMT 1705; shimmed to 70 psi; 120,000; TTB DiPricol 0-60 white face boost gauge, DiPricol 0-1600 white face pyrometer, SOLD in between gauges for now; A-Pillar mount for now. DIY 160cc Injectors.DIY IDM mod. ValAir O-FE w/3400# plate; Front and rear tank filler neck mods
I would post in the for sale section and let the word out that you want 3.55's, there is always someone who wants 4.10s, you can probably work out a swap.
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1997 PSD 3/4 ton 4x4 SC LWB SRW; 5 spd; 3:55; K&N open element/homemade intake; gutted EBPV piston, plugged hole; 3 in. downpipe; SCMT 1705; shimmed to 70 psi; 120,000; TTB DiPricol 0-60 white face boost gauge, DiPricol 0-1600 white face pyrometer, SOLD in between gauges for now; A-Pillar mount for now. DIY 160cc Injectors.DIY IDM mod. ValAir O-FE w/3400# plate; Front and rear tank filler neck mods
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So, where do I look for the new rear end, or do I get someone to put new gears in the one I've got?
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I have a complete, drum to drum, rear axle that I would like to sell. It is from a 1997 SRW F-350, with 3.55's. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
as far as get up and go I can smoke a comparible 4:10 truck empty since I can stay in the turbo and subsequently power band longer.
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I wish you lived a little closer, I would have to see that!
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<span style="color: #000099"> 96 F-250 CREWCAB POWERSTROKE... Stage 1 injectors... 6 position Tony Wildman chip: stock, economy, daily, tow, hot tow, & Luke Cline Extreme... Superduty IDM mod... Tymar intake... Tymar 3"X4" down pipe... Tymar 4" exhaust... Tymar high pressure oil crossover... 6.0 intercooler-PIPES thanks to GTS... CCV mod... V10 transmission cooler... 203* thermostat... shimmed FPR... gutted EBPV... Monster Box trans... 4.10s... Dana 60 front... LS rear w/ extra qt and a half diff cover... three gauge pod full of Autometer's... AIC... Turbo pedestal mod by Rick96F250 and a 3/8inch shorter bolt on the rear passenger side of the pedestal... Nippondenso starter... THINGS TO DO: get a big turbo, big oil, and big fuel... RSK with SD springs.</span>
as far as get up and go I can smoke a comparible 4:10 truck empty since I can stay in the turbo and subsequently power band longer.
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I wish you lived a little closer, I would have to see that!
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Me too [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
Just remember you have a slushbox, you're not a "similarly equipped truck" I don't care how good you shift gears with a manual, more shifting means more looses.
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1997 PSD 3/4 ton 4x4 SC LWB SRW; 5 spd; 3:55; K&N open element/homemade intake; gutted EBPV piston, plugged hole; 3 in. downpipe; SCMT 1705; shimmed to 70 psi; 120,000; TTB DiPricol 0-60 white face boost gauge, DiPricol 0-1600 white face pyrometer, SOLD in between gauges for now; A-Pillar mount for now. DIY 160cc Injectors.DIY IDM mod. ValAir O-FE w/3400# plate; Front and rear tank filler neck mods
Yeah, I didn't even notice you had a MANUAL. It definitely makes sense about the shifting.
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<span style="color: #000099"> 96 F-250 CREWCAB POWERSTROKE... Stage 1 injectors... 6 position Tony Wildman chip: stock, economy, daily, tow, hot tow, & Luke Cline Extreme... Superduty IDM mod... Tymar intake... Tymar 3"X4" down pipe... Tymar 4" exhaust... Tymar high pressure oil crossover... 6.0 intercooler-PIPES thanks to GTS... CCV mod... V10 transmission cooler... 203* thermostat... shimmed FPR... gutted EBPV... Monster Box trans... 4.10s... Dana 60 front... LS rear w/ extra qt and a half diff cover... three gauge pod full of Autometer's... AIC... Turbo pedestal mod by Rick96F250 and a 3/8inch shorter bolt on the rear passenger side of the pedestal... Nippondenso starter... THINGS TO DO: get a big turbo, big oil, and big fuel... RSK with SD springs.</span>
should have been more "loses" manual trans trucks aren't as fast as an auto. no way to shift as fast and you lose alot of boost when you can't shift fast.
__________________ 1997 F-350 CC LB 4x4 Auto, AD's, Chip, IC, 4Wh. Disk Brakes, and other stuff