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Power Strokes 1994-1997 Upgrades and Aftermarket Upgrading and adding aftermarket equipment to your 1994-1997 Ford F-Series with Power Stroke engine.

       
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Old 07-04-2006, 06:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Relocating the driver's side battery

I conducted a search on this topic but came up short, unless Im loosing it, I know Ive seen past posts. What all is involved and what materials do I need? What are the downsides to this, for those that have done it? Thanks in advance!
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Midnight black '94 * F-250 * 4x4 * ZF-5 * 4:10 * cc/lwb * RSD Single Shot Stage I's* TDP 6pos chip * BDP electric fuel * BDP 1.0 exhaust housing * Hypermax 3x4" dp * Authentic Tymar intake * gutted ebpv * 4" exhaust & 5" tip * AlumaCraft diamond plate toolbox * custom antenna mount (108" whip) * Uniden cb * diamond plate bed rail caps * LUK clutch * A-pillar pod w/ Auto Meter NV boost, pyro and water temp gauges * reverse dash lighting and hvac controls * Optima yellow top batts D75/25 * ccv mod * HPO X-over mod * manually controlled gp's * cruise control mod * add-a-leaf (front) * poly bushings (front) * Rancho RS9000 shocks * dual steering stabalizer * 60,279 on rebuilt engine (myself) as of 1/08

To do list:IDM mod
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Old 07-04-2006, 07:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Relocating the driver's side battery

I think i have seen something about it some where also.

What about relocating them both to the tool box? stacking them on a custome made shelf? That would be cool. I think all you would need would be a big enough cable. My local contractor supply sells it by the foot.

Let us know Thanks

Jordan
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Old 07-04-2006, 07:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Relocating the driver's side battery

I relocated 2 yellow top Optimas to a custom made mount under the bed on the outside of the frame,pass side,between the axle & cab.Man, it REALLY cleaned up under the hood! Lots of room for whatever.

Brian
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http://s77.photobucket.com/albums/j70/Briansshop/

Just getting broken in, 50,000 miles!
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Old 07-05-2006, 12:10 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Relocating the driver's side battery

Brian do you have any pictures of your battery relocation?
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Old 07-05-2006, 04:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Relocating the driver's side battery

Yea, I have some pics,I'll try to get them up here, as soon as I figure out how.

Brian
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95 F350 CC XLT,bought new as 2x Dually,owner converted to 4x4,open intake,SD IC,1.0 Housing,Pedestal Mod,Gutted EBPV,dp,5"no muff, Baumann TCS controlled e4od,"I LOVE that thing"!,Baumann VB kit,UCC Custom Billet T/C-VERY low stall speed,Mag-Hytec pan,dual True-Cools,remote filter,3 pos.T/C lock-up switch w/LED,Elec.fans on trans.& engine w/Derale adj.stats,Gauges,Kingpin D60 w/Lock Right,Detroit Locker in the 10.25,4.88s,4" Nat. springs w/ORU-SRK in fr.,crossover steering,10" Atlas springs in rear-no blocks!,Bilstein 5100s,38" PJ Dirt Grips on 16x12" M/T Classic Locks w/Centramatic balancers,Warn hubs,Powerslot rotors,Hawk pads,Can-Back canvas top.

http://s77.photobucket.com/albums/j70/Briansshop/

Just getting broken in, 50,000 miles!
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Old 07-05-2006, 07:40 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Relocating the driver's side battery

You could get the side mount battery boxes Ford puts on the Econolines. They put one battery under the hood, and one mounted on the frame under the side doors.

Dave
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Old 07-05-2006, 08:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Relocating the driver's side battery

Brian, do you think (Im not an electrician) that the long cables (I have an extended cab) would lead to voltage drop/heat build up by placing my batteries back there? Im looking at about six to seven feet of cable.
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Midnight black '94 * F-250 * 4x4 * ZF-5 * 4:10 * cc/lwb * RSD Single Shot Stage I's* TDP 6pos chip * BDP electric fuel * BDP 1.0 exhaust housing * Hypermax 3x4" dp * Authentic Tymar intake * gutted ebpv * 4" exhaust & 5" tip * AlumaCraft diamond plate toolbox * custom antenna mount (108" whip) * Uniden cb * diamond plate bed rail caps * LUK clutch * A-pillar pod w/ Auto Meter NV boost, pyro and water temp gauges * reverse dash lighting and hvac controls * Optima yellow top batts D75/25 * ccv mod * HPO X-over mod * manually controlled gp's * cruise control mod * add-a-leaf (front) * poly bushings (front) * Rancho RS9000 shocks * dual steering stabalizer * 60,279 on rebuilt engine (myself) as of 1/08

To do list:IDM mod
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Old 07-05-2006, 09:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Relocating the driver's side battery

Just add a size and you will be fine.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.

UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
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Old 07-05-2006, 09:50 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Relocating the driver's side battery

Yea,like Mark said.Go big and it'll be fine.My truck is a CC and my cables are about 11ft. long. Mine are 4/0 gauge - about the size of a 3/4' garden hose!I ran the same size ground right to one of the starter bolts.Cranks over w/no probs.

Brian
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95 F350 CC XLT,bought new as 2x Dually,owner converted to 4x4,open intake,SD IC,1.0 Housing,Pedestal Mod,Gutted EBPV,dp,5"no muff, Baumann TCS controlled e4od,"I LOVE that thing"!,Baumann VB kit,UCC Custom Billet T/C-VERY low stall speed,Mag-Hytec pan,dual True-Cools,remote filter,3 pos.T/C lock-up switch w/LED,Elec.fans on trans.& engine w/Derale adj.stats,Gauges,Kingpin D60 w/Lock Right,Detroit Locker in the 10.25,4.88s,4" Nat. springs w/ORU-SRK in fr.,crossover steering,10" Atlas springs in rear-no blocks!,Bilstein 5100s,38" PJ Dirt Grips on 16x12" M/T Classic Locks w/Centramatic balancers,Warn hubs,Powerslot rotors,Hawk pads,Can-Back canvas top.

http://s77.photobucket.com/albums/j70/Briansshop/

Just getting broken in, 50,000 miles!
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Old 07-05-2006, 09:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Re: Relocating the driver's side battery

That was the best place for an air tank for horns but not anymore.
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Old 07-05-2006, 11:40 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Re: Relocating the driver's side battery

Thanks! That was my next question: exactly what gauge cable do I need. Appreciate the help.
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Midnight black '94 * F-250 * 4x4 * ZF-5 * 4:10 * cc/lwb * RSD Single Shot Stage I's* TDP 6pos chip * BDP electric fuel * BDP 1.0 exhaust housing * Hypermax 3x4" dp * Authentic Tymar intake * gutted ebpv * 4" exhaust & 5" tip * AlumaCraft diamond plate toolbox * custom antenna mount (108" whip) * Uniden cb * diamond plate bed rail caps * LUK clutch * A-pillar pod w/ Auto Meter NV boost, pyro and water temp gauges * reverse dash lighting and hvac controls * Optima yellow top batts D75/25 * ccv mod * HPO X-over mod * manually controlled gp's * cruise control mod * add-a-leaf (front) * poly bushings (front) * Rancho RS9000 shocks * dual steering stabalizer * 60,279 on rebuilt engine (myself) as of 1/08

To do list:IDM mod
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