For all who have installed a new exhaust... How long did it take? What were your obstacles? Since I have to replace I am looking to go from the turbo back and I hear that is a real pain to do. Any suggestions?
I am doing this on my 97 F250 7.3L E4OD 4X4 Ext Cab LB
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Ford Family
Me - 1997 F250HD PSD
Wife - 2005 Crown Vic
Brother - 1995 F250 PSD
Father-in-law 2001 F250 SD PSD
Sister - 2007 Mustang GT
Can't say for sure about your 97 but my 99 the only hard part was the downpipe needed extra hands but the rest was easy.
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Early 99 Crew Cab Dually AFE Stage II, 4" MBRP,Autometer ultra lite gauges pyro,boost,trans temp,Zoodad Mod.,6.0 trans cooler and now sportin ITP'S Overboost Annihilator and DP Tuners F5 with no start,stock,60 tow,80E and 120 race and all i can say is DAMN!
Former U.S.A. Res. MP & proud of it!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: yamt03</div><div class="ubbcode-body">the downpipe needed extra hands but the rest was easy. </div></div>
From what I have heard around town, the firewall will need to be bent or pushed back to make room for the new DP.
Has anyone had experience doing this? The local muffler shop want $400 + to do the install due to the DP difficulty. I am trying to avoid that cost if there is a way to DIY.
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Ford Family
Me - 1997 F250HD PSD
Wife - 2005 Crown Vic
Brother - 1995 F250 PSD
Father-in-law 2001 F250 SD PSD
Sister - 2007 Mustang GT
When I did my downpipe we cut it out and then bent the body lip on the cab down. The new one just slid in and with the lip bent, there's no worry about the pipe vibrating or making a rattling noise. After that the rest is a piece of cake...It took an hour or so to change out.
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June 1996 F250HD XLT/SC, LWB, 4x4, 4:10LS, E4OD, White outside, Gray inside, Camper/Tow pack, Factory Aluminum wheels, Factory rear slider, decal free.
Factory AIC, Aux dash switches, Full add-a-leaf, Mile Marker SS Hubs, Upgraded E4OD Tranny, Tymar intake, BD downpipe, Exhaust brake, 203* stat, BriteBox, California Regulator mod, Truck Interiors Winterfront, Ported bug guard, Energy Suspension bushings rolling on 265x75 Bridgestone Revo's.
It's really not hard at all, just a little time consuming. It seems that some trucks have a little different clearances in the downpipe location. All you need to do is stick a 2x4 or a small scissor jack or whatever you can find (once the old downpipe is out)up in between the firewall and the engine block. Pry the firewall back, you may only need to bend the pinch weld back. I found it much easier to cut the old downpipe in half with a sawzall when I removed it.
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1997 F250 HD 4x4 5speed Reg Cab, 4" MBRP exhaust, 1.0 turbo housing, Tymar Intake , 17* HPOP,Swamps 150cc, TW 4 position chip, Dana 60 w/RSK, Crossover steering, sittin on 35's
If you have some know how it should be less than 2hrs for the DP stuff. Just make sure you have a saws all and a couple blades.
The rest of the exhaust should also take less than 2 hrs.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
Yes it is not hard and not worth $400. Cut the DP and pull out the top and bottom. Cut the body lip in two places and bend it flat. That is all. Slip in the new DP and done. If you want a thrill crank it at this point.
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97 F250 7.3PSD,X-Cab,SWB,4X4,5spd,4.10gears,1Owner
3.5” DP,4” Exh.,No Cat,6637 Intake,FPR mod,60 gal bed tank,5th whl & gsneck
BDP 140v IDM Mod
CCV mod
'08 diff
Hewitt Gauges
HPX Mod
6 pos TW chip
Modded H2e
Rosewood stage II's
Valair clutch
Hey thanks everyone for the replies. I think I will tackle this myself. It seems I have all the tools required. CSIPSD mentioned a 2 piece DP. I have not found that. Who makes it? I am looking at the SS kit from MBPR. I am open to your suggestions for quality materials if it is ok to post those kind of things here.
Again, thanks for all the help and suggestions so far.
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Ford Family
Me - 1997 F250HD PSD
Wife - 2005 Crown Vic
Brother - 1995 F250 PSD
Father-in-law 2001 F250 SD PSD
Sister - 2007 Mustang GT
If you still need one I have one for sale. It will not work with a existing stock set-up, but if your replacing everything anyway mine will work great.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
Many folks had to bend their cab lip to make the new DP work. I was one of the lucky ones in that my cab is mounted far enough back that my new DP just dropped right in with a little manipulation. Some others here have been lucky as well. As far as that Sawzall blade goes, get a long one. it makes it much easier if you reach as far up the old pipe as you can to make the cut.
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"You can all go to Hell. I'm going to Texas." - Davy Crockett
1996 F-250 Supercab PSD with Edge Evolution, Grand Rock Powerflow 4" exhaust, AFE Stage II Intake. Isspro Gauges.
Only other caution is if you needto bend (likely) the cab lip, be careful of the fuel line elbow on the head. PIA if you break it off. I used a portapower with a body spreader. I had the tranny out though so I cheated!
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Mine: 91 F250 Reg Cab 4x4 5spd 7.3IDI 4.10LS 145,000 miles. Banks Sidewinder 92 D60 F axle w 97 brakes and Powerlock. Lift: about 4" over stock 250. 33x12.50x16.5 Pro Comp MTs Magnaflow 12" muffler. Sees dirt everyday. Used to haul hay, wood, feed cows, check fence.
Hers: 96F250 CCSB 7.3 PSD 4x4 5spd 3.55 LS 190,000 miles. Puchased 7/03, Looked for a 5spd CCSB for a year!Dana 60 front axle, at stock F350 height (for now) Energy Poly bushings, Bilsteins, 305/70/16 Pro Comps on 16x10 Weld Outbacks, AFE Pro7,TYMAR 3x3.5x4 downpipe,TYMAR 5" straightpipe, gutted EBV, IH Non EBV pedistal,New Alliant AC Injectors,(stage 1)Cal reg kit, SBC Con O clutch, permenent clutch bushing fix, AC mod with a different twist, AMP Powersteps with custom brackets and wiring(one of 2 OBS trucks with them according to AMP) Line of Fire. Sees dirt everyday.
My Company pickup: 86 F250 6.9 C6 320,000 miles Co trucks 5 89 to 94 IDI's, plus about 50 more diesels.
Diesel Mechanic 28 yrs
I would recomend at least 2 blades for the sawzall - fresh ones.
the factory down pipe is a tough bugger - good metal in that thing - too bad it's so horribly shaped.
Replacing the down pipe was not a big deal.
Upon recomendations from here I cut two slits in the floor / firewall hem flange, massaged it flat with a hammer, and installed the new round 2piece 3" unit - no sweat.
If possible use band clamps not U clamps.
Make sure you wear tight fitting safety glasses or goggles if you cut from underneath - been to the eye doctor - not fun!
Some guys have had good luck cutting from the top too.
You'll have to cut the tailpipe to get it out as I recall, too large to wrestle in unless you have it way up in the air.
I'd cut out the old system in as many pieces as required to make removal easy.
Then install the new down pipe - a super duty tailpipe, and connect the two with an adaptor at the cat flange and a piece of pipe. (SD tailpipe is 4"
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Belleville, MI (Detroit / Ann Arbor)
'97 F250 4x4 7.3PSD ZF5spd 4L10
PA2818 diy intake, wicked wheel diy turbo rebuild, .84 turbo housing, no muffler, I LOVE MY BEANS TS'ers! ;-), new pedal box bushings, Fleetgaurd coolant filter, Seat Mod, electric fan, Eagle 16x8 w/265 75 Firestone Steeltex AT, cooling pkg front bumper
'69 Mustang 428CJ(ongoing project)
'99 escort zx2 commuter
'86 Supra classic ski boat 351W PCM power
'54 Belair sedan, all original
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: milner351</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If possible use band clamps not U clamps.</div></div>
No lie! Definately go get some band clamps. My local NAPA has them in stock, but I am not sure if all NAPA's have them.
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'95 F250 XLT 4X4 Ext Cab long bed, 5 speed, SMFW, custom kevlar LuK clutch by Superior Friction San Jose, 3.55 LSD, '88 kingpin D60, Sky RSK with SD V code springs, 175K miles, ATS 1.15 BB turbo, BDP Stage 2.5 injectors, BDP fuel system, 4 line Stealth, '02 120V IDM, ARP studs, Spearco 7.3 intercooler, 3" intakes, Northern Diesel Performance 6-pos TS chip w/TW tunes, guages, Tymar intake, EBPS bypass mod, IH bellowed uppipes, 4" DP, straight exhaust, 200PSI train horns and 215A alternator..
(No start, Modified Stock, 60T, 80E, 120race), ITP Overboost Annihilator, CCV, AIH Delete, 6.0 Tranny Cooler, Bilsteins
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