I have the RSK 5' and superduty springs on my truck and it drives like crap. Its hard to keep going striaght down the road. Its almost like the front or rear axle is shifting a tiny bit because the steering wheel never really has a center it changes depending on the next bump you hit. Anyone ever have problems like this. Exerything and I mean everything has been rebuilt or replaced, steering box, tierods, front and rear bearings, hubs, steering column. The only thing i can think of is a dual steering stabilizer, i only have a single on it now. the alignment has been looked at and changed slightly 4 different times. I wonder if the front hanger bracket is flexing? Any advice?
Thanks
Brandan
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1996 F-250 CC SB 4X4, 7" lift, D-60 conversion, superduty springs front and rear, 37x13.50x17 xtreme all terrains, tymar intake, mbrp 4" exhaust, 6 pos wildman chip.
If everything is tight it has to be either a tight ball joint, steering box adjustment, or the caster is off.
Depending on the kit and how it was installed, it can tilt the axle forward or backward from the stock position and change the caster. Some shops dont try to correct caster on leaf spring 4x4's, which is done with a tapered wedge between the spring and axle.
Who did you ball joints? Do they move smoothly? There are specs on that and the steering box adjustment.
There is no voodo in it, many have done it. It has to be simple.
Is the track bar on there and tight?
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Mine: 91 F250 Reg Cab 4x4 5spd 7.3IDI 4.10LS 145,000 miles. Banks Sidewinder 92 D60 F axle w 97 brakes and Powerlock. Lift: about 4" over stock 250. 33x12.50x16.5 Pro Comp MTs Magnaflow 12" muffler. Sees dirt everyday. Used to haul hay, wood, feed cows, check fence.
Hers: 96F250 CCSB 7.3 PSD 4x4 5spd 3.55 LS 190,000 miles. Puchased 7/03, Looked for a 5spd CCSB for a year!Dana 60 front axle, at stock F350 height (for now) Energy Poly bushings, Bilsteins, 305/70/16 Pro Comps on 16x10 Weld Outbacks, AFE Pro7,TYMAR 3x3.5x4 downpipe,TYMAR 5" straightpipe, gutted EBV, IH Non EBV pedistal,New Alliant AC Injectors,(stage 1)Cal reg kit, SBC Con O clutch, permenent clutch bushing fix, AC mod with a different twist, AMP Powersteps with custom brackets and wiring(one of 2 OBS trucks with them according to AMP) Line of Fire. Sees dirt everyday.
My Company pickup: 86 F250 6.9 C6 320,000 miles Co trucks 5 89 to 94 IDI's, plus about 50 more diesels.
Diesel Mechanic 28 yrs
It sounds like you were having the same problem I was. Have someone sit in your truck and crank the steering wheel while it's running. Turn it all the way to the left and then all the way to the right, does your tie rod(the bar that goes from knuckle to knuckle) rotate up and down while it's being turned? What I mean is, does the drag link push it down and pull it back up while you are turning the wheels?
Dave
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1997 F250 HD 4x4 5speed Reg Cab, 4" MBRP exhaust, 1.0 turbo housing, Tymar Intake , 17* HPOP,Swamps 150cc, TW 4 position chip, Dana 60 w/RSK, Crossover steering, sittin on 35's
I have the RSK 5' and superduty springs on my truck and it drives like crap. Its hard to keep going striaght down the road. Its almost like the front or rear axle is shifting a tiny bit because the steering wheel never really has a center it changes depending on the next bump you hit. Anyone ever have problems like this. Exerything and I mean everything has been rebuilt or replaced, steering box, tierods, front and rear bearings, hubs, steering column. The only thing i can think of is a dual steering stabilizer, i only have a single on it now. the alignment has been looked at and changed slightly 4 different times. I wonder if the front hanger bracket is flexing? Any advice?
Thanks
Brandan
I had a wobble after I did my install and double checked everything. The only thing that cured my problem was a inline dual steering stabilizer, I think it was made by Superlift. Alot of guys said I had a problem some where else, but I couldnt find it and I needed a new stabilizer anyway. Good luck
Frank
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1997 F-250 H.D 4X4 CREW CAB SHORT BED, MBRP 4" TURBO BACK, 16K REESE, 3:55, Auto Meter Sport Comp gauges, tri pillar, 11\16\05 BDP STAGE 1 INJECTORS, TS 6 POSITION CHIP, TYMAR INTAKE 3/27/06 B.T.S. , SIRIUS RADIO, BDP IDM, 4" 350 BLOCKS,160,000 SP Exhaust Brake, 7/4/07 6.0 Intercooler, 7/29/07 Blackbirds Customs rear disc 9/11/07 King Pin Dana 60, SKY 3" RSK, V code 5200 lbs SD springs, 10/17/07 Pro Comp Xtreme's 315x75x16 on Pro Comp 1059's 8"x16" 1/27/08 DIY Fuel System, Running on DSE since March 2008
2004 Pitbull Motorsports rigid chopper
121 TP 130rwh 250 avon
04 CRF250 mine
02 CR80 sons
03 XR100 daughters
425 Polaris magnum
500 Polaris sportsman and 300 lakota everyones
1998 27.5 Wilderness 5th wheel
Well i was thinking of putting a dual stabilizer on it anyway so that might help. it does have a little bump steer but thats not the main problem. i have had 3 different steering boxes and this last one is an AGR. I had AGR on the phone walking me through re-adjusting the box to make sure that wasnt the problem. Its not. I did the alignment myself and have re-checked and made small adjustments 4 times, not really any changes and everything is dead nuts on spec. my caster is in the 4 degree range with .04 cross caster and camber is right at .01 and i have been playing with the toe in to see if it helps but no luck. What has me interested is yall mentioned the drag link and tierods rotating up and down when the steering wheel is moved a little left and right, yes it does do that, a lot. I am also interested in the tight ball joint theory, how is that fixed or tested?
Brandan
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1996 F-250 CC SB 4X4, 7" lift, D-60 conversion, superduty springs front and rear, 37x13.50x17 xtreme all terrains, tymar intake, mbrp 4" exhaust, 6 pos wildman chip.
Brandan, your tie rod rotating up and down is Not a good thing, it's Not suppose to do that. I had the Exact same problem with mine and I just fixed it. Every time your tie rod rotates up and down you feel it through the steering wheel and it will make your wheel off center and require extra steering input every time it shifts when you go around a turn at speed. I put a 3"RSK on mine and taller springs for a total of about 4 inches of lift. I also used a 4 inch drop pitman arm, it still didn't help. I finally decided the heck with it and called OFF ROAD DESIGN here in Colorado. They make a high steer kit which bolts to the top of your steering knuckle and your drag link goes to it instead of down to the tie rod. I just installed mine last week and it is GREAT, no more sketchy steering. The drag link is now parallel with the ground, which in theory is the best angle for it to be. It can't pull up or push down on the tie rod anymore, it has to travel in a straight plane left and right. They use 1.25" (chrome moly I think) tubing with .25" wall thickness and huge tie rod ends that you can get at any local auto parts store. Install took all of about 45 minutes. It's very beefy stuff and makes your original steering linkage look like it came off a Honda. You have the option of retaining the factory tie rod in it's stock location (which is what I did) or going with a complete Crossover steering which also moves the tie rod up high also. I plan on doing this down the road some day but wanted to save money for now
Dave
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1997 F250 HD 4x4 5speed Reg Cab, 4" MBRP exhaust, 1.0 turbo housing, Tymar Intake , 17* HPOP,Swamps 150cc, TW 4 position chip, Dana 60 w/RSK, Crossover steering, sittin on 35's
Just read through the various posts here and just wondering if the steering wheel is re-centering after a corner? Are the axle u-joints in good shape? When it was time for my axle u-joints to be replaced, old truck kinda felt similar (at least to me) as what you are explaining. As my u-joints where old and partially seized truck would not re-center after driving around a corner (if you released the grip on the steering wheel) and it felt like it was steering itself, inthat I had to constantly make minor adjustments when driving....hope that makes sense.....anyways new u-joints and voila....
jrc
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96 XLT F350 CC ZF-5 355's 16x8 aluminum rims 285/75R 16 Dick Cepek F-C IIs. T Wildman programs, Map regulator, DIY CCV & HX mod, TDS exhaust brake, BD gauges, downpipe 4" exhaust, custom SS resonator, LUK, SD I/C, Custom Shackle Reversal, Custom Moose Bar and Velvet rides, RS 9000x shocks, Custom Aluminum Drybox/fuel tank, Swamp's Baby Injectors, SD Hpop, DIY Oil by pass filtration, DIY electric fans, DIY E-Fuel system, Lighting by VisionX, LightForce and PIAA and other stuff. http://community.webshots.com/user/jcart44
I have a question for you and dont take it the wrong way. Have you ever owned a lifted truck before? Ive owned several and they are typically all over the place, with the new larger lifted tires your truck will bounce from side to side because of the overall size of the tires.
In 04 I bought a new Dmax and lifted it and it was the only truck that didnt do it. My ford and my old dodge all hop around on the road.
I have to say BS to "lifted truck just do that" Both of mine run straight and true and often times I leave cars behind in the twisties. No side to side bounce or other BS.
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Mine: 91 F250 Reg Cab 4x4 5spd 7.3IDI 4.10LS 145,000 miles. Banks Sidewinder 92 D60 F axle w 97 brakes and Powerlock. Lift: about 4" over stock 250. 33x12.50x16.5 Pro Comp MTs Magnaflow 12" muffler. Sees dirt everyday. Used to haul hay, wood, feed cows, check fence.
Hers: 96F250 CCSB 7.3 PSD 4x4 5spd 3.55 LS 190,000 miles. Puchased 7/03, Looked for a 5spd CCSB for a year!Dana 60 front axle, at stock F350 height (for now) Energy Poly bushings, Bilsteins, 305/70/16 Pro Comps on 16x10 Weld Outbacks, AFE Pro7,TYMAR 3x3.5x4 downpipe,TYMAR 5" straightpipe, gutted EBV, IH Non EBV pedistal,New Alliant AC Injectors,(stage 1)Cal reg kit, SBC Con O clutch, permenent clutch bushing fix, AC mod with a different twist, AMP Powersteps with custom brackets and wiring(one of 2 OBS trucks with them according to AMP) Line of Fire. Sees dirt everyday.
My Company pickup: 86 F250 6.9 C6 320,000 miles Co trucks 5 89 to 94 IDI's, plus about 50 more diesels.
Diesel Mechanic 28 yrs
I have the RSK 5' and superduty springs on my truck and it drives like crap. Its hard to keep going striaght down the road. Its almost like the front or rear axle is shifting a tiny bit because the steering wheel never really has a center it changes depending on the next bump you hit. Anyone ever have problems like this. Exerything and I mean everything has been rebuilt or replaced, steering box, tierods, front and rear bearings, hubs, steering column. The only thing i can think of is a dual steering stabilizer, i only have a single on it now. the alignment has been looked at and changed slightly 4 different times. I wonder if the front hanger bracket is flexing? Any advice?
Thanks
Brandan
Brandan,
I have had the SAME problem. I have the 5" RSK also with SD Springs.... I thought it might be my caster or angles on the trackbar/draglink....all is within specs.....
Just more costly 
Linear Mode
