Rollover valve - Diesel Forum

Rudolf_Diesel · 07-21-2007, 08:12 PM

I was inspecting my tank and I cannot find a rollover valve. Is there one a 4X2? I want to do the fast fill mod.

johndeere9610 · 07-21-2007, 09:46 PM

its on top of the tank

johndeerebones · 07-21-2007, 10:38 PM

Just did it, WOW, well worth the time and effort. You can do the front tank in place, but you'll have to drop the rear. Mine needed dropped anyway, I take what I would call very good care of my truck, and my rear tank had quite a bit of rust under the straps that I cleaned up and repainted. Now I have piece of mind too.

Rudolf_Diesel · 07-21-2007, 11:04 PM

I have not done it yet, but I was looking for the rollover valve and I could not see it. I found the feed/return/fuel sending unit cover and the filler neck, but I can't seem to find the rollover valve. BTW, my tank is metal (don't know if it matters or not)

BlueMule · 07-21-2007, 11:10 PM

This'll help:

http://www.dzljim.com/Ford/tank_vent_mod.htm

Rudolf_Diesel · 07-22-2007, 12:06 AM

Did some more feeling around and I finally found it! Thanks

Rudolf_Diesel · 07-22-2007, 09:52 PM

I started the mod today and I didn't want to use JB weld on the rollover valve. So I decided to make a new part for the application. I started off with 1-1/2" solid round of Delrin and copied the profile of the OEM rollover valve. I drilled and tapped it for 3/8" NPT. On the filler neck I was able to just knock out the inner vent piece with a couple of good hits with a hammer and screwdriver. Once again I opted not to use JB weld and instead brazed a brass barb fitting to the filler neck. I still need some hose to finish the job and do some testing.

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/559986091iDOCVh

bullridin_fool · 07-23-2007, 08:33 AM

that looks very good. probably one of the best job's i've ever seen on this mod.

Rudolf_Diesel · 07-23-2007, 10:46 PM

I ended up making a new adapter because I didn't like the lip that is used to retain the fitting in the tank. I originally machined the taper at a 10* angle, but it wasn't steep enough. I made version 2.0 today and used a 20* taper, much better looking and matches the OEM perfectly. I installed it and it fits like a glove. I also routed the hose and filled up the tank. It works great! I actully got to fill up the tank without a spit up!

Although the web page says to use a straight fitting, I opted to go with a 90* elbow on the filler. I also was careful to route the hose in a continuos drop without a "trap". Now someday I'll get to the rear.

johndeerebones · 07-25-2007, 12:35 AM

[ QUOTE ]
I ended up making a new adapter because I didn't like the lip that is used to retain the fitting in the tank. I originally machined the taper at a 10* angle, but it wasn't steep enough. I made version 2.0 today and used a 20* taper, much better looking and matches the OEM perfectly. I installed it and it fits like a glove. I also routed the hose and filled up the tank. It works great! I actully got to fill up the tank without a spit up!

Although the web page says to use a straight fitting, I opted to go with a 90* elbow on the filler. I also was careful to route the hose in a continuos drop without a "trap". Now someday I'll get to the rear.

[/ QUOTE ]

That fitting looks great, only problem I see is it WILL NOT fit on the rear tank, it is very low clearance where the rollover valve is.

Leader · 07-25-2007, 04:16 PM

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I ended up making a new adapter because I didn't like the lip that is used to retain the fitting in the tank. I originally machined the taper at a 10* angle, but it wasn't steep enough. I made version 2.0 today and used a 20* taper, much better looking and matches the OEM perfectly. I installed it and it fits like a glove. I also routed the hose and filled up the tank. It works great! I actully got to fill up the tank without a spit up!

Although the web page says to use a straight fitting, I opted to go with a 90* elbow on the filler. I also was careful to route the hose in a continuos drop without a "trap". Now someday I'll get to the rear.

[/ QUOTE ]

That fitting looks great, only problem I see is it WILL NOT fit on the rear tank, it is very low clearance where the rollover valve is.

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I just used WATT's nylon elbows from Home Depot. 3/4" pipe tread to a hose barb of whatever size hose you use. And yes, you have to space the tank down some when you reinstall it.I cut some strips off an old truck mud flap for between the top straps & tank. Little longer bolts in the skid plate & all was fine.

Blue_Mtn_Boy · 07-26-2007, 12:18 PM

Y'all might consider buying new roll-over valves and rubber grommets for the F450/F550. They drop right in, the hose barb end is 5/8 or 3/4 (can't remember), and they're designed to vent more air. I wish I'd saved the FoMoCo part numbers but I was in a hurry when I did the install. I bought all the parts from Dale @ TYMAR and he'd probably sell you just the pieces you want or the whole kit.

BlueMule · 07-26-2007, 04:35 PM

I saved the bags. E8UZ-9B076-A is the # for the grommets and F4TZ-9B593-H is the short rollover valves and they use 3/4" hose. 3/8" rubber strips shimmed the rear tank down enough for valve clearance.

Blue_Mtn_Boy · 07-26-2007, 06:27 PM

Cool. Thanks for the part numbers, I just added them to my spreadsheet. Good tip to use 3/8" rubber strips for the rear tank spacer. That's the missing link on my tank vent mod so my rear tank really doesn't fill any faster yet. Hey, maybe I'm motivated enough to get it done now.

johndeerebones · 07-28-2007, 02:09 AM

I didn't space mine down. I just used the watts nylon fittings and made the rear fitting as short as I possibly could. It is a trick to get the rear hose flowing right, but I did and it works great. I still think one of the best parts of this mod is the piece of mind I got from "derusting" the tank where the straps go over it and painting it up. Now I shouldn't have to worry about it for another 10 years or so...