RSK & Super Duty Spring Swap - Page 2 - Diesel Forum

**caryt** · 10-22-2009, 12:16 PM

Alinement won't stop a tire hitting a spring unless it WAY out!!you may be able to adjust the stop bolt on the knuckle..some D60's have them.

**ammayernick** · 10-22-2009, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caryt

Alinement won't stop a tire hitting a spring unless it WAY out!!you may be able to adjust the stop bolt on the knuckle..some D60's have them.

Cary,
My alignment guy said the same thing. So its back to the spacers and flippin the shocks the right way!

ckjneil · 10-22-2009, 07:03 PM

i need new springs all around and would like to know how much it cost for the whole thing as you did it and if there is somewhere i can purchase everything needed for the swap. I dont have time to go shopping all over for different parts etc.. thanks in advance

**ammayernick** · 10-23-2009, 09:25 AM

90% came from Cary at CT Performance. "V" codes and bolts came from Ford dealer. With the Icon rears, RSK, and Bilsteins your lookin at roughly $2200.00

beachbilli · 10-23-2009, 06:08 PM

At that price why not just buy a 6" lift kit and call it a day, instead of buying parts here and there. I guess what i'm saying is no need for hanger, stock springs (superduty that is), and you already have a F-350 so there was no need for a axle sawp. I thought the main reason guys were doing this is becuase that could get thier hands on some cheap used springs and wanted to swap in a dana 60.

Garbage_Mechanic · 10-23-2009, 07:50 PM

Cary will probably explain this better, but the whole point of the RSK with SD springs VS a lift kit is that the springs are longer and the shackles are moved to the rear where they work with the spring travel rather than against it. Stock SD springs have a lot of engineering or the taper leaves and spring rate to get the best ride possible out of a leaf spring. The only other spring coming close is IKON lift springs because of the multiple thin leaves.

Don't mean to be rude but if you think a lift kit is the same thing you are missing the whole point of designing a suspension to work insted or reaching a height for the lowest price. Big difference. The RSK / SD swap makes a working suspension.

beachbilli · 10-24-2009, 10:16 PM

Garbage Mec, All I was saying is that you can get a 4" Super Lift kit complete with front and rear springs, shocks, all the hard ware for half the price and i bet it will ride just as good if not better than the stock SD springs/ hanger with bilsteins. Thats with out having to call here for this, go to ford for that, and track certain parts down. I no that this swap isn't done to acheive a ride hieght or i would just go out and buy a lift kit myself (not to be mean).

**ammayernick** · 10-26-2009, 10:58 AM

I think if the lift kit was the way to go in this case we wouldn't be having this discussion. I have yet to lift a truck that rode better(softer) until now. You can save 600 bucks if you stick with Ford SD rears or used springs which I saw for as little as $25 each at the junky. I just opted to buy all new parts as I've never been fortunate with used stuff.

**caryt** · 10-26-2009, 11:58 AM

Sorry but any brand spring lift kit for a stock OBS will ride like crap, I don't care if they came from Deaver or anyone its the fact that no spring like to work correctly with the axle bolted 4"+- offset. This is the reason that Ford revised the suspension on the 99's. No spring will ride better than a stock 2 leaf V code on these trucks. B code rear's will ride better than the stock rear OBS spring. For taller lifted trucks a Icon 5" rear rides the best.

Cary

Garbage_Mechanic · 10-26-2009, 09:31 PM

Like I said, Cary will do a better job explaining.

Two reasons the RSK / SD V Code set up is much better that just buying a lift kit:

With few exceptions lift kits are designed to reach a certain height and not sag. Ride quality is not first priority.

The OBS front suspension has tow design flaws that are corrected in the conversion....

The engineeers at Ford spent much more time on ride quality and longevity to design the taper leaf design. That is the leaves taper in thickness from center to end thus giving a true progressive spring rate.

OOPS, that's 3 already.

**ammayernick** · 10-27-2009, 11:52 AM

Well my alignment guy recommends the dropped pitman arm so I'll have to wait another day before I can get my baby back. Any cons of the dropped arm?

**caryt** · 10-27-2009, 01:58 PM

Me I'm not happy with using a drop pitman arm with a 3"RS kit and V codes as in reality compaired to a SD its just a 2-3 level kit and SD don't need one. The steering will feel looser with a drop pitman arm. I've ran them both ways and perfer none. Little more bump steer but not worth the steering feel trade off IMO.
Bump steer..these trucks have it stock and the only fix stock lifted or not is a much longer track bar...working on that now.

Cary

BadDogPSD · 10-27-2009, 02:17 PM

I agree with Cary. I put a dropped pitman arm on when I did mine and don't like the way it steers. The drag link also hits the tierod on full compression.
I'm looking to go back, just need to find my stock pitman arm!

gnxtc2 · 10-27-2009, 05:38 PM

I had to use a drop pitman to get my draglink and trac bar the same angle.

So how does the truck ride now?

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

Jcart · 10-27-2009, 11:50 PM

Beachbilli,

The other benefit is that the truck will handle (steer) more accurately as the Shackle is at the rear of the spring. The stock inframe (upper) shackle bushings are narrow and wear out fast and that is partially why these stock configuration trucks steer like herding hogs....It can be done for less but ammayernick sourced all new parts and thats a good way to go, if you can swing it. On my second truck with RSK and they are so much nicer to drive. Really enjoy the SD springs all round on mine and also did front and rear anti-sway bars and it handles really very well...

jrc