I just got the 35's on my truck and they are rubbing really bad on the rear of the wheel wells. What should I do? Should I cut more off of the bracket so that it can pivot more and move the axle further forward?
Matt
__________________ 1996 F250 XLT, CC, SB, 4x4, 231,000 miles, 4.10 gears, E4OD, Tony Wildman 4 Pos. Chip, Custom modded Valvebody by Richter69, GAW Downpipe and 4" exhaust to a 5" bent tip, new interstate batteries, Pioneer Headunit, Alpine Components/Amps, Infinity Sub, Front brush guard w/ Hella drive lights, Camo seat covers, 1997 F350 Dana 60 Axle swap with 3" RSK and 2001 F350 Superduty Springs "V codes", and 5.5" non-tapered rear blocks, New Mickey Thompson Classic II's 16x8 drilled rims and LT315/75R16 Nitto Terra Grapplers with McGard Lug Nuts.
I think Amberjax was the first one to try pivoting the bracket instead of moving it forward the correct amount and he noted in his post that the axle moved back about an inch from oe location.
On mine with just the RS kit it would just barely clear the 35's very slight rubbing in certain situtations, so moving the axle back an 1" would probably cause what you are experiencing.
Yea, my problem is that the axle is too far back and the tires are rubbing on the rear of the wheel well. Should I try just pivoting the bracket more?
Oh on another note, I had the truck aligned today at an alignment shop and the guy basically told me I was retarded for putting the shackles in the rear and he told me that my truck rides like crap. He asked me what I thought of the ride, and I told him that this truck has never ridden so well, the truck rids like a different vehicle its just amazing. My track bar is set up exactly the same way that Dieseldutton's is and he told me that it cannot be done like that.
Also my caster is off 6 degrees, should I get the shims to fix it or will it be alright?
__________________ 1996 F250 XLT, CC, SB, 4x4, 231,000 miles, 4.10 gears, E4OD, Tony Wildman 4 Pos. Chip, Custom modded Valvebody by Richter69, GAW Downpipe and 4" exhaust to a 5" bent tip, new interstate batteries, Pioneer Headunit, Alpine Components/Amps, Infinity Sub, Front brush guard w/ Hella drive lights, Camo seat covers, 1997 F350 Dana 60 Axle swap with 3" RSK and 2001 F350 Superduty Springs "V codes", and 5.5" non-tapered rear blocks, New Mickey Thompson Classic II's 16x8 drilled rims and LT315/75R16 Nitto Terra Grapplers with McGard Lug Nuts.
That's what I told him, I asked him if this is wrong then why would they put the shackles towards the rear on the Superdutys? He didn't have a very good answer.
How bad will the truck be to drive if my caster is off 6 degrees?
Matt
__________________ 1996 F250 XLT, CC, SB, 4x4, 231,000 miles, 4.10 gears, E4OD, Tony Wildman 4 Pos. Chip, Custom modded Valvebody by Richter69, GAW Downpipe and 4" exhaust to a 5" bent tip, new interstate batteries, Pioneer Headunit, Alpine Components/Amps, Infinity Sub, Front brush guard w/ Hella drive lights, Camo seat covers, 1997 F350 Dana 60 Axle swap with 3" RSK and 2001 F350 Superduty Springs "V codes", and 5.5" non-tapered rear blocks, New Mickey Thompson Classic II's 16x8 drilled rims and LT315/75R16 Nitto Terra Grapplers with McGard Lug Nuts.
I think that Dieseldutton has 35s on his truck now and I don't recall him ever complaining of his tires hitting. He used the same method as I did to install the RSK kit (pivoting). I also had my truck aligned after the conversion but the guy didn't say anything about the caster being off. As far as the truck riding bad.... he should have driven the truck before the conversion and then he would understand.
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97' F250 4x4 crew cab. 4:10 gears,High Idle mod, Dana 60 conversion using 3"SKY RSK w/03' SD springs and 3 3/4" rear blocks to level. Tymar, Issopro gauges on 3 gauge pod, 3" down pipe, shimmed FPR and DP tuner 6 pos. chip (12-13-07). http://community.webshots.com/user/amberjax
Find a different shop..if the Castor was off 6* it would be undriveable! Typ Castor is 4-5* and without Castor the front wheels would wobble like a shopping cart and the steering wheel would never self return..after making a turn.
Cary
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95 f250 4x4 xlt Excab Lb. white, BTS Trans, 4.10ls, Dana 60, ORU RS kit DR 4"front 5" reas springs!, Bilsteins, Centerline 18x9", 37" Toyo MT's,H2e, Tapercore IC,3" Billet intakes, Tymar 4" exhaust,intake and HX mod,Beans 2's, Stealth and Fuel system and DI studs, JS's IDM mod, TW 4 pos chip,TSM Rear Disks, 198k miles.
2004 EB 4x4 6.0 X born 05/18/04
white, LS,premier group, tow package, dvd. centerline 18x9" w/ 35" Toyo MT's, Edge 4.5" Lift, V's & custom B codes 37k miles 3rd turbo 6 5150 Specialy valved Bilsteins!
1976 EB Exploration daily driver
1971 EB Hard Core Crawler
2006 Yamaha FJR1300
2005 Suzuki King Quad
I measured my caster both before and after. I had less than 1* difference between the two. That shop is measuring it wrong.
Regarding the stuff, my truck does not rub the tires ever. I run 35" as well. You need to move your RSK as far forward as possible. the rear shackle should be near vertical, with the top leaning just a hair towards the front of the truck.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MttPStroke</div><div class="ubbcode-body">So if the typical caster is 4-5* then all I would need would be a 1* or 2* shim?
Matt</div></div>
No "IF and I say IF" it was off 6* you would need a 6* shim min.
They are wrong. Got pictures of the front and rear we can see?
Cary
__________________
95 f250 4x4 xlt Excab Lb. white, BTS Trans, 4.10ls, Dana 60, ORU RS kit DR 4"front 5" reas springs!, Bilsteins, Centerline 18x9", 37" Toyo MT's,H2e, Tapercore IC,3" Billet intakes, Tymar 4" exhaust,intake and HX mod,Beans 2's, Stealth and Fuel system and DI studs, JS's IDM mod, TW 4 pos chip,TSM Rear Disks, 198k miles.
2004 EB 4x4 6.0 X born 05/18/04
white, LS,premier group, tow package, dvd. centerline 18x9" w/ 35" Toyo MT's, Edge 4.5" Lift, V's & custom B codes 37k miles 3rd turbo 6 5150 Specialy valved Bilsteins!
1976 EB Exploration daily driver
1971 EB Hard Core Crawler
2006 Yamaha FJR1300
2005 Suzuki King Quad
i say take the bumper off and do it right. Move the bracket forward and leave it perpendicular to the frame. The more you tilt that bracket the worst your problems will be. The only way i think i could have kept my 97 from rubbing was to angle my bracket a bit forward after i moved it 5 inches forward But that just didnt seem right. i had 16x10's with 35's and they rubbed the rear of the fender when i stuffed the tire completely and turned the wheel. Granted though not to manya people do that with their FST's.
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03 F250 SC LB 4x4
4.5 inch DR kit. 35's
Freeflowing 4 inch lol
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