I had 3500# springs installed,camber bushings and a front end alignment. Around $500. It seemed like it took 2 months for the springs to settle for an alignment.(use old tires if you go this route)
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97 F-250 PSD 4wd 5spd 4.10 open SCLB, Tymar intake, 3"dp, EBPV gut, Boost/Pyro gauges, SBC Con-O, Stancor 586-902 GPR, Royal Purple gear and tranny oils
alot of the sagging on these truck has to do with all the bushings wearing out. the spring bushings on my old psd were so worn, the springs were almost riding on the bolts! the shackle bushings were shot too. changed them all out and it gave me about an inch of lift [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
Just figure out how much you want and have some plate of that thickness cut out to make a block to put under the front springs. That's what usually has to be done when we install a TTB lift kit to get everything right.
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Proud Recipient Of The \\\ 01 F-350 CC/LB 4x4 BTS Auto XLT Toreador Red W/Gray Lower Accent
10" Lift 38 PJs, EDGE Trac Bar Relocate, ORU X over, Weld Outbacks, AFE Stage 2,Hypermax 5", Hypermax Mod BJ Code Injectors, Hypermax H2E (broke, replaced with something bigger), Hypermax Rev Kit, ITP Fuel Sys, Aeromotive fuel pump, forged rods, main studs, head studs, billet intakes, WOP fire rings, BTS Trans & HPOS,
I forgot to add, drill a hole through it and put a longer spring bolt in it to make the block part of the leaf pack.
Alot of people will prob freak and tell you can't do this because it is illegal to put "blocks" in a front suspension. They simply don't understand and it IS perfectly acceptable to do on a TTB suspension up to about 1 1/2".
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Proud Recipient Of The \\\ 01 F-350 CC/LB 4x4 BTS Auto XLT Toreador Red W/Gray Lower Accent
10" Lift 38 PJs, EDGE Trac Bar Relocate, ORU X over, Weld Outbacks, AFE Stage 2,Hypermax 5", Hypermax Mod BJ Code Injectors, Hypermax H2E (broke, replaced with something bigger), Hypermax Rev Kit, ITP Fuel Sys, Aeromotive fuel pump, forged rods, main studs, head studs, billet intakes, WOP fire rings, BTS Trans & HPOS,
Mine had that when I bought it, as long as it is plate, and not a block that can crack or bust it will be fine.
I took my shims out and cut down a pair of super duty take offs and made an add a leaf for each side, after it settled, it sits about level. My tires wear better than they did. Haven't been to an alignment shop yet to see how far out it is though. My tires are wearing good though so it isn't a priority right now.
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1997 PSD 3/4 ton 4x4 SC LWB SRW; 5 spd; 3:55; K&N open element/homemade intake; gutted EBPV piston, plugged hole; 3 in. downpipe; SCMT 1705; shimmed to 70 psi; 120,000; TTB DiPricol 0-60 white face boost gauge, DiPricol 0-1600 white face pyrometer, SOLD in between gauges for now; A-Pillar mount for now. DIY 160cc Injectors.DIY IDM mod. ValAir O-FE w/3400# plate; Front and rear tank filler neck mods
If heat creates boost and not velocity why not put a blow torch on the exhaust manifold?
96 F250 Hypermax H2 for now, WOP long block going in. Spearco from BWD, Terminator oil w/DP tuner, Fass, Bronco tank, 4" DP, safe to say motor is not stock. Thanks to Zane at WOP. :-)
99 F250 Lariat SCSB 7.3
98 Peterbilt 379 Cat 3406E 964ci 600hp+Pittsburgh Power and Stage III Michigan OR6051 turbo/boost blanket, Nathan P5 Amtrack Horn, 800 XCR Snowmobile Turbo triple, Avenger III instruments. The usual old mans toys. USAF Veteran
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DiPricol 0-60 white face boost gauge, DiPricol 0-1600 white face pyrometer, SOLD in between gauges for now; A-Pillar mount for now. DIY 160cc Injectors.DIY IDM mod. ValAir O-FE w/3400# plate; Front and rear tank filler neck mods
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