so I am getting ready to order my downpipe from dale and i am going to go with the 3.5 inch. my question is if I run a straight pipe from the downpipe and let it underneath the truck will it sound much different then if i were to exit it out the side? has anyone had any experinces with this and i looked on youtube and cannot find any sound clips of one. i dont want to run the full exhaust and would like to get some nasty spooling out of it but I was wondering if i just 45'd the exhaust to the ground would it be much different then running it out the side any help and sound clips would be awesome! btw im thinking of going either 3.5 inch or 4 inch exhaust any opinons? btw i dont really want a big tip that is flashy or anything like that
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95 psd,cc,dually,long box,288k,xlt,diy open element intake,unplugged fuel bowl heater....damn that fuse 22
I just cut my exhaust off right in front of the muffler so it is exiting about 4ft in front of my rear axle and i didn't even put a turndown on it.
In my opinion it sounds just as good if not better than the side exit exhausts. There is a lot of noise in the cab though because the sound is not carried as much towards the rear. I like to hear the sound of my own truck though.
before I finished my exhaust it was cut just after the cab and there was alot of cab noise!!!! It didn't sound bad but I wanted to dump it before the rear wheels!!!
Later,
DEVLYN
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1996 F-350, CC, Dually, 2wd, torreador red, tinted windows, rollpan w/hidden hitch, Cervini's fully functional ram air cowl hood, Diamond cut headlights/parking lights, billet grill, 93-95 lightning front bumper/ valance, lightning buckets and center seat in front, lightning buckets and subwoofer enclosure mounted in between, 2 10" diamond audio subs, Sony Amp, pioneer head unit, Eagle Alloy series 129/130 wheels, Bilstien shocks, triple pillar pod w/ stewart-warner boost, EGT, and Trans temp, Tymar intake, Tymar HPX, BD 45h.p. chip, Fumoto drain valve, fuel heater mod, Stancor GPR,Coolant Filter, Tymar 3x4" DP, 4" back turned out before rear wheels with Stainless 4"x5" slant tip
Mods to come: I have these just need to install: banks wheel, 203 degree thermostat
ok thanks guys I am still debating it right now anyone know of any sound clips dumped right under the truck? I cant find anything but side exit on youtube
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95 psd,cc,dually,long box,288k,xlt,diy open element intake,unplugged fuel bowl heater....damn that fuse 22
I Have A 07' 6.0 F-250 And I Have The Exhaust Dump Right After The Cab. There Is No Mufflet Or Cat. It Sounds Awsome. You Can Really Hear The Turbo. I Love It
I had to leave just a down pipe on for a couple weeks once. It sounded cool for about 3 days. I may be getting old, but it was annoying after that.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
Someone on here (in Southern Cal.) has a video clip he took with his camera mounted under the truck. His exhaust dumped right behind the cab, straight down, pic was in avatar. Had an F250 flatbed he used in the dunes. Anyone remember his user name?
__________________ [color:"blue"]WEBSHOTS[/color]
'00 F350 CC 4X4 longbed, wht, Lariet pkg. She's pretty! Open element intake, 4" exhaust, A-pillar pod w/ Isspro gauges, TW 4 pos. chip, leveling kit, 315-70-17 BFG AT's on black alloy rims, and...
SOLD '95 F350 CC 4X4 (ex-slope truck) flatbed. Open element intake, 3-4" dp, 4" straight pipe through bumper, shimmed FPR, IDM mod, TW 4 pos. chip, DIY RSK/shackle flip, 315-70-17 BFG AT's, H2 rims, 4.10's, rebuilt E40D, 3 guage a-piller pod w/ Isspro guages, DIY rear disks, SD front bumper, Warn 8000# winch, Explorer power buckets, Dodge center console/seat...
I used to have a rear exiting exhaust then decided to chop it off after the cab, when i found out it was what killed my second turbo.
I put a flapper cap on the end to angle the exhaust down a bit when idleing, other than coating everything under the truck black, i love the sound.
Sound clips just dont do the sound justice, its quite something, I've had a few guys in big rigs look down to see what that load rig was below them at intersections.
Btw the main reason i left it chopped off if I cant decide if i want stacks or not, lol.
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If it dont burn, it aint good!
1996 F250 4x4 S/C LB, 4.10, Tymar Intake, 4" Strait-Pipe, Marsh E40D, 4" Lift, 35" Pro-Comp Xtreme-Mudders on 16x8 Steelies, 190K miles, TW Chip, Rose 160cc injectors, SD CAC, D66, 2" Rear Aluminum Spacers, Dana 60 Front w/ LockRight Locker
On The List: Oil, Tank, Fuel, Lockers, Modular Flatbed
I am looking to in getting a truck within the next year and half or so depending but for now this is my everything truck so I would like to have some fun with it. How did the exhaust kill your turbo btw? Will you get the same sound if you angle it down to the ground as you would angling it out to the side?
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95 psd,cc,dually,long box,288k,xlt,diy open element intake,unplugged fuel bowl heater....damn that fuse 22
Someone on here (in Southern Cal.) has a video clip he took with his camera mounted under the truck. His exhaust dumped right behind the cab, straight down, pic was in avatar. Had an F250 flatbed he used in the dunes. Anyone remember his user name?
Yes, that was RYANPSD, haven't seen him a while. He left about the time we lost all the good ol boys with lots of knowledge.
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1997 PSD 3/4 ton 4x4 SC LWB SRW; 5 spd; 3:55; K&N open element/homemade intake; gutted EBPV piston, plugged hole; 3 in. downpipe; SCMT 1705; shimmed to 70 psi; 120,000; TTB DiPricol 0-60 white face boost gauge, DiPricol 0-1600 white face pyrometer, SOLD in between gauges for now; A-Pillar mount for now. DIY 160cc Injectors.DIY IDM mod. ValAir O-FE w/3400# plate; Front and rear tank filler neck mods
I had to leave just a down pipe on for a couple weeks once. It sounded cool for about 3 days. I may be getting old, but it was annoying after that.
Exactly, only mine was only cool for about 3 hours And I'm only 27, so I ain't to old yet....If you get it out on the highway and hit high gear so it lugs a little the cab drown is absolutely horrible. Not to mention in MO anyway anything closer than I think like 18" behind the passenger compartment is Illegal, because of CO emmisions. Also I have 4" all the way out the back now and spool is NO different than when the pipe was off. You would have to be flowing some insane fuel for a 4" pipe to be a restriction unless it was very long and had sharp bends in it. If want fast spool you need more fuel, not less exhaust.
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1997 PSD 3/4 ton 4x4 SC LWB SRW; 5 spd; 3:55; K&N open element/homemade intake; gutted EBPV piston, plugged hole; 3 in. downpipe; SCMT 1705; shimmed to 70 psi; 120,000; TTB DiPricol 0-60 white face boost gauge, DiPricol 0-1600 white face pyrometer, SOLD in between gauges for now; A-Pillar mount for now. DIY 160cc Injectors.DIY IDM mod. ValAir O-FE w/3400# plate; Front and rear tank filler neck mods
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
on OBS trucks because the way the turbo is secured the heavier the exhaust is the more strain it puts on the turbo, causing it to pull down on the exhaust housing which then puts strain on the center section, which will crack on the bottom and tend to bend the shaft.
Talked to the guy who build turbos for WOP and he said he's seen it alot.
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If it dont burn, it aint good!
1996 F250 4x4 S/C LB, 4.10, Tymar Intake, 4" Strait-Pipe, Marsh E40D, 4" Lift, 35" Pro-Comp Xtreme-Mudders on 16x8 Steelies, 190K miles, TW Chip, Rose 160cc injectors, SD CAC, D66, 2" Rear Aluminum Spacers, Dana 60 Front w/ LockRight Locker
On The List: Oil, Tank, Fuel, Lockers, Modular Flatbed