What looks better? Over or under the rail on a white truck? Its going in tomorrow and need to make a decision.
__________________
1997 F250 Crew Cab Short Bed 4x4 Auto 4" skyjacker lift 130K Dana 60 Front 4" Straight pipe lost kitty 5" Silverline tip Factory Alcoas on 315/75/16 All Terrains
under. but i guess beauty in in the eye of the beer holder
__________________
His: '95 F350 CrewCab, 3.55 SRW, 5spd std w/ Royal Purple, LUK SMFW, VDO Pillar gauges, Homemade open air intake, 3" Downpipe W/ 4" cat-back exhaust from Tymar, Tunes by DP Tuner, Baby Seat Mod on rear bench, 198K miles. It gets 21-23 mpg consistently (on the highway) and 17 mpg in town. My remaining planned mod list includes Amsoil & electric radiator fans.
Hers: 2004 Chevy Malibu Classic; 2.2Ecotec 4 cylinder. VERY dissapointed in mpg's.
Company Car (Daily Drive): 2007 Chevy Impala, Jet Black
I much prefer over the rail, it protects the tops from dings and such and to me looks better as well.
Dave / Believer45
__________________ THANK YOU to all the heroes in our military and all the heroes at home who wait for their safe return. I am humbled by and grateful for your service and sacrifice.
'95 F250 ext cab long bed, PSD, 5 speed manual, two wheel drive, 3.55 gears, LUK clutch conversion, 450 lb homemade REAR BUMPER, homemade open element AIR FILTER, aluminum bed cap. With me in the cab (285#) and full of fuel weighs 6,580 lbs (steer 3420 drive 3160)
The part I don't like about the over the rail is the plastic bedliner is constantly riding on your paint, so might as well wave goodby to your paint on your toprails forever. Also the part I don't like about bedliners in general is the same thing happens to the bed, all paint rubbed off. Now of course if it's spray in type, I suppose you wouldn't care because it will be permanent. That's the part I don't like about them. Anything non-reversable as far as add ons go is risky to me.
__________________
Ron Hansen, 1997 F350CC, 4x4, PSD 110,000 miles all stock with stupid auto transmission unfortunately. 1993 Ford E350 Club Wagon 7.5L 11,000 miles, 1978 Kawasaki KZ650 motorcycle with 167,000 miles!
Depends how you use it....Once it's on there you can't go back...You can always add a rail protector if you wish....
__________________
Rick.....
97 F 350 ...Lucky 13 "Most stuff's just stuck & needs hittin with a hammer"....
Supporter/End user of ShiftSolutions THE CURE E4/4R Trans Control. Helping Cancer patients and families
fordtransmissioncure.com
Special thanks to RacerX
racerxautomotive.com
If your truck has ever been repainted before, then stick with under the rail. The tape they use can pull aftermarket paint off...especially if the body shop didn't prep properly. I know first hand......
Also, the guy that did my truck, when he removed the tape which has a wire in it to cut the excess material, he pulled part of it at a 90 degree angle and part of it at a 45 degree angle. Needless to say, my cut edge looks like crap and no easy way to fix it. It's been 4 years and I still get mad when I look at this lack of professionalism!
Jerry
__________________
1997 F-350 XL Crewcab 4x4 SRW PSD a.k.a MEAN GREEN. DP-Tuner Chip, DIY Stage 1 injectors, D66 Turbo with 1.0 housing, K&N FIPKwith Amsoil element, 4" exhaust to 5" stacks, Banks intercooler, CCV modded to RDT, 4" Superlift with 35" BFG AT's.
I had Rhinoliner applied to the tops of the bed and tailgate. Durable stuff, doesn't seem to need a rail cap to protect it. Been on for about eight years now.
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.