Has anyone that runs stacks cut/fabricated your toolbox so that you could enjoy them both? I have plans for stacks but not yet ready to part w/ my box. Doesnt seem that hard...if I only knew how to tig weld.
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Randy
Midnight black '94 * F-250 * 4x4 * ZF-5 * 4:10 * cc/lwb * RSD Single Shot Stage I's* TDP 6pos chip * BDP electric fuel * BDP 1.0 exhaust housing * Hypermax 3x4" dp * Authentic Tymar intake * gutted ebpv * 4" exhaust & 5" tip * AlumaCraft diamond plate toolbox * custom antenna mount (108" whip) * Uniden cb * diamond plate bed rail caps * LUK clutch * A-pillar pod w/ Auto Meter NV boost, pyro and water temp gauges * reverse dash lighting and hvac controls * Optima yellow top batts D75/25 * ccv mod * HPO X-over mod * manually controlled gp's * cruise control mod * add-a-leaf (front) * poly bushings (front) * Rancho RS9000 shocks * dual steering stabalizer * 60,279 on rebuilt engine (myself) as of 1/08
i have a tool bax and stacks, just move to box out a little. But i also have a few trailers so if i get in a jam i have a back up. Look at my pics in my sig.
Thats a nice rig you got there...I've drooled on those pics before. I was thinking of cutting the corners off the box so that it sits in the very back as before, the wasted space would aggravate the hell outa me. I'm not a welder or fabricator so I may be asking way too much.
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Randy
Midnight black '94 * F-250 * 4x4 * ZF-5 * 4:10 * cc/lwb * RSD Single Shot Stage I's* TDP 6pos chip * BDP electric fuel * BDP 1.0 exhaust housing * Hypermax 3x4" dp * Authentic Tymar intake * gutted ebpv * 4" exhaust & 5" tip * AlumaCraft diamond plate toolbox * custom antenna mount (108" whip) * Uniden cb * diamond plate bed rail caps * LUK clutch * A-pillar pod w/ Auto Meter NV boost, pyro and water temp gauges * reverse dash lighting and hvac controls * Optima yellow top batts D75/25 * ccv mod * HPO X-over mod * manually controlled gp's * cruise control mod * add-a-leaf (front) * poly bushings (front) * Rancho RS9000 shocks * dual steering stabalizer * 60,279 on rebuilt engine (myself) as of 1/08
depending on what way your box opens, it may not work to just cut the corners. if you have a single door hinged at the front, to fit against the front of the bed, it would have to fit between the stacks (not resting on the bedrails). with with 2 doors, hinged in the middle, you could get away with cutting the corners. i have a single lid hinged at the rear and just slid the box forward (dead space between the box, front of the bed, and the stacks. clipping off the corners of your toolbox may be more work than it's worth
That dead space could be used for something else. Im going to mount an air tank in there. Its going to be a little ways from the exhaust but its a long tank and then im going to mound a piece of diamond plate on top so its out of sight. Its an idea any way. I thought about cutting the box too. Before i bought this box. I was going to but a box that opened like \____/ that. and get a cheap one and have it cut then line X'ed. but im happy with my tank idea.
Thank you for the compliments, hope i helped a little Jordan
The box I currently have is hinged in the rear, w/ the lid opening towards the cab, two latches, one on each side, in the front. Simply turn the box around, backwards from intended w/ the corners clipped. A definate con would be reaching blindly for the latch within close proximity of the potentially hot stack, but the lid would open w/o interfering w/ the stacks. A pro to that would be that the lid, when open, would reflect the cargo lights illumination into the box. Just not sure about the clearance around the stacks..what kind of temperatures do the stacks reach? The box would also sit over the Y at the base of the bed...think it would cook anything inside? Jordan, youre welcome..helped a great deal, good luck w/ the air tank.
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Randy
Midnight black '94 * F-250 * 4x4 * ZF-5 * 4:10 * cc/lwb * RSD Single Shot Stage I's* TDP 6pos chip * BDP electric fuel * BDP 1.0 exhaust housing * Hypermax 3x4" dp * Authentic Tymar intake * gutted ebpv * 4" exhaust & 5" tip * AlumaCraft diamond plate toolbox * custom antenna mount (108" whip) * Uniden cb * diamond plate bed rail caps * LUK clutch * A-pillar pod w/ Auto Meter NV boost, pyro and water temp gauges * reverse dash lighting and hvac controls * Optima yellow top batts D75/25 * ccv mod * HPO X-over mod * manually controlled gp's * cruise control mod * add-a-leaf (front) * poly bushings (front) * Rancho RS9000 shocks * dual steering stabalizer * 60,279 on rebuilt engine (myself) as of 1/08
I have 5" stacks and a tool box I moved the box out. The one thing that bothers me since the stacks is I can't put something thats 8 foot flat in the bed now. You can see my truck in the link below.
Dual 6" Stacks and Toolbox with no cutting of the toolbox, although it would be neat with certain boxes.
Check out the rest in my sig...
TFB
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Sold: 1997 F-350 CC 4x4
"New Rig" 2003 F-250 Lariat CC 6.0L EDGE w/Attitude Monitor, Automatic, 4" Exhaust Truck PicturesShow Me DJ Service
You can always cut through the crossmember at the front of the bed and run the exhaust up through there instaed of going behind it like a lot of guys do. Its only a few inches, but still thats a little less wasted space.
I like the idea of having the stacks all the way in the corners of the bed and filling the space, if I were doing it I would put a matching fuel tank in between the stacks at the toolbox level so when you look in there there is something (the empty space would bug the hell outa me as well) [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
I would certainly consider cutting the crossmember to achieve the appearance, while maintaing maximum bed space, that I'm after..such as the stacks tucked as tightly to the corners as possible and not allowing any wasted space inbetween. Its got to be doable. Anyone gonna comment on the temps the stacks reach?
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Randy
Midnight black '94 * F-250 * 4x4 * ZF-5 * 4:10 * cc/lwb * RSD Single Shot Stage I's* TDP 6pos chip * BDP electric fuel * BDP 1.0 exhaust housing * Hypermax 3x4" dp * Authentic Tymar intake * gutted ebpv * 4" exhaust & 5" tip * AlumaCraft diamond plate toolbox * custom antenna mount (108" whip) * Uniden cb * diamond plate bed rail caps * LUK clutch * A-pillar pod w/ Auto Meter NV boost, pyro and water temp gauges * reverse dash lighting and hvac controls * Optima yellow top batts D75/25 * ccv mod * HPO X-over mod * manually controlled gp's * cruise control mod * add-a-leaf (front) * poly bushings (front) * Rancho RS9000 shocks * dual steering stabalizer * 60,279 on rebuilt engine (myself) as of 1/08
I have my stacke all the way in the corner. I cut the cross member.
The temps? After a run if you touch them it will burn ya. I have seen a few people touch mine [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img].
I have a bed may touching the y pipe in the bed and its not deformed, but the bed liner is touching in a spot and it has melted it a little. (my new bed is going to have spray in bed liner 2006-2007 so im not worried about melting it)
I have had straw packed back there and it really did noting. But pop bottles and Gatorade bottles and the wrapper melts to the pipes and the bottle will start to deform. This is with pulling 10,000lbs on the freeway.
I keep the bed and behind the stacks clean, it is spotless right now, but some times working it gets dirty. Still not sure how the bottles ended up back there, throwing trash in the bed at lights maybe. But im not a slob and i clean the bed at the end of every day. oh and i dont wait for it too cool down when i clean, just dont bump it.
Jordan, your reply made me think about all the "surprises" we find in our beds and what to be aware of w/ an exhaust system living back there. As far as temps, I wonder about items inside the box as well, potentially being cooked. If I do move forward w/ trimming the box so that it encompasses the stacks, the danger of being burnt every time I open the lid will exist. If you guys agree this could work, I'll start looking for a sheet metal fabricator/welder asap. I appreciate all your help, views and concerns.
__________________
Randy
Midnight black '94 * F-250 * 4x4 * ZF-5 * 4:10 * cc/lwb * RSD Single Shot Stage I's* TDP 6pos chip * BDP electric fuel * BDP 1.0 exhaust housing * Hypermax 3x4" dp * Authentic Tymar intake * gutted ebpv * 4" exhaust & 5" tip * AlumaCraft diamond plate toolbox * custom antenna mount (108" whip) * Uniden cb * diamond plate bed rail caps * LUK clutch * A-pillar pod w/ Auto Meter NV boost, pyro and water temp gauges * reverse dash lighting and hvac controls * Optima yellow top batts D75/25 * ccv mod * HPO X-over mod * manually controlled gp's * cruise control mod * add-a-leaf (front) * poly bushings (front) * Rancho RS9000 shocks * dual steering stabalizer * 60,279 on rebuilt engine (myself) as of 1/08
Well I'm surprised, the temp was only 172º. I've touched them before and I would have sworn they were a lot hotter than that.
Cutting out the crossmember is not a problem. I had to have the stacks in the corners in order to fit an aux tank between the stacks and the wheelwells. At first I was a little concerned about the load carrying capacity in the front of the bed with no support. My tank holds 110 gallons and everything is holding up just fine. The tank is within ¼" of the stacks and it hasnt burned and paint off the tank.