So it was freezing for here (like 37F) and the truck starts like normal and being the good neighbor I put it in gear right away and start to roll out of the driveway when the thing starts running really rough and then dies in like two secs. Srtarts right back and idles normal and then in about 5 secs it starts to run like its on 2 lungs and dies again and over and over like that about ten times. Then it quits and runs normal. Tack was running the whole time even when it ran rough. No CEL. Pulled the quad trailer up to the snow after this and had no probs. Any ideas?
Your fuel gelled. Happened to me in recently. 80% biodiesel didn't like weather unusually cold for Texas. Truck ran fine as soon as the sun had been out for a while. I went straight to the gas station and thinned out the biodiesel with petro and no more problems. Perhaps you got some fuel that was not a good blend for weather conditions.
I had a similar problem,start,stall and hickup while driving.No codes in computer.Ended up being a bad crank sensor.Cheap and fairly easy fix.about $28.00 and 15 min.Good Luck
Update...it did it again warm this time. Engine idled for about half hour then started doing it again CEL was on when it was rough then went out and it cleared right up. Seems electronic to me now...fuel prob wouldnt turn off and on like that. Tack worked the whole time so not CPS issue?
my tach worked the whole time and it was a cps. open the plug and see if it is full of oil like mine was. brake cleaner fixed it enough for me to get it to my mechanic to replace the sensor. I couldn't get mine off. the last person that changed it got 10lbs or torque confused with 100lbs. And it is a PITA to get to, removing the belt helps.
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96 7.3 f250 4x4 ext cab , longbed, DIY intake, 3" downpipe, Cat delete,Gutted ebpv, tw 4chip. Clean fpr screen and a shot of power service in the tank. 19 mpg on and off the foot.
my tach worked the whole time and it was a cps. open the plug and see if it is full of oil like mine was. brake cleaner fixed it enough for me to get it to my mechanic to replace the sensor. I couldn't get mine off. the last person that changed it got 10lbs or torque confused with 100lbs. And it is a PITA to get to, removing the belt helps.
Might be the CPS, they are cheap and if the bolt isnt to tight I didnt see any problem changing it, I was on the side of the highway and it was done in 5min??? Anyways if that isnt it check all four plugs on the inside of your valve covers for ANYTHING that could be burnt or any signs of burning, then go from there.
Check your engine oil level. low oil level will do this.
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Grass was not greener LOL Im Back to Ford
2004 F-350 4x4 Dually Lariat 6.0 torqueshift 4:10 gears.4 inch Exh. EGR Blocked off, other then that stock. 102K worth of extesive road testing done so far.
04.5 Dodge 3500 4X4 Dually QC 325-600 CTD 48Re auto.Tradeed for the 04 F-350
SOLD-99 350 CC dually for the Dodge [email]psdisel95@aol.com http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i1...000_0441-1.jpg http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i1...000_0439-2.jpg
Possibly. We don't run straight #2 around here in the winter at all. They mix it with #1 and some other additives to make it good to a lower temperature.
Next time it happens, pull the filter top off and look. It will be very obvious if hat's what it is. Then, pull the HPOP reservoir off and look there. That can do what you are describing too.
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2006 GMC K3500 CC DRW 4x4
1994 F-350 DRW PS w/ zf5
1996 Town Car
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