Those with XL model trucks........ - Diesel Forum

94strokerace · 03-16-2007, 05:47 PM

And you havent done the cruise thing yet, DO IT. IT WORKS. All you gotta do is purchase the horn pad with the cruise buttons and jumper the brake m/c switch connector. Thats it. Just like that, bang, you have cruise. Wished I had done this years ago when it surfaced here, just havent been willing to pay the $$$ to get the horn pad. Thanks to Jerry Miller, who gave us a heads-up that there was a pad on ebay for cheap. Prolly a $200 option from the factory, mine works for 40 bucks. Cool. Thanks again Jerry.

ryanPSD · 03-16-2007, 07:46 PM

I have an XL and have not yet done the mod. I jumped the connector under the hood and bought a horn pad off eBay a short time ago, and while the horn pad looks OEM the connector is different (smaller connector, smaller pins). Weird. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]

I will probably just cut the connector off my old horn pad but have to somehow connect the third middle wire in there (the non CC horn pad only has two wires, the new ones have three).

I can't wait to finally have cruise control. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

94strokerace · 03-17-2007, 02:17 AM

If it would help, i can pull my horn pad back off and explain which wires go to which pins in relation the the key on the connector.

75f100 · 03-17-2007, 08:42 AM

Quote:

If it would help, i can pull my horn pad back off and explain which wires go to which pins in relation the the key on the connector.

Get us some pics [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]

I'll be doing this soon.

94strokerace · 03-17-2007, 12:16 PM

Quote:

If it would help, i can pull my horn pad back off and explain which wires go to which pins in relation the the key on the connector.

Get us some pics [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]

I'll be doing this soon.

OK, ill see what i can do, have no idea how to post pics and such, but sure to figure it out.

spaceballs · 03-17-2007, 05:05 PM

I have an XL, and when I bought my truck it had the tilt steering wheel with cruise. Was that an original option? Or did the previous owner do some work on it?

Wreckingball_psd · 03-17-2007, 09:22 PM

I have a 97HD...cruise, A/C and the rear slider all came stock

Went i got this one, those 3 options were must haves for me

Dunno bout the diff in the XL's though

**Diesel_Aggie** · 03-20-2007, 05:36 AM

Most likely factory. The only way to get cruise from the facotry was with tilt steering. Ordered 2 XLs that way.

steelsoldiers · 03-20-2007, 06:22 PM

Great post. I had no idea it would be that easy and inexpensive to do cruise on my '95. My leg thanks you. I would love to see some pics of the connector as well.

75f100 · 03-20-2007, 07:11 PM

How bout a write up with pics??

A step by step for us dummies. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]

94strokerace · 03-20-2007, 07:15 PM

This mod has actually been around for a long time, I remember reading about it back in '03. It will "re-surface" from time to time as people buy used PSD's w/o c/c. Working on the pics.

94strokerace · 03-20-2007, 11:15 PM

As requested:

Ford F-Series 92-96 Cruise Control Mod

Materials Required
1. Cruise control equipped horn pad. This can be purchased new at Ford or eBay, or used at a junk yard.
2. (2) small spade connectors
3. A short length of #10 wire
4. A short length of shrink tubing

Tools Required
1. Needle nosed pliers
2. Side or diagonal cutters
3. A heat source (cigarette lighter)
4. Crimping tool
5. Soldering iron and solder (optional)

Prerequisites
1. All brake lights must be operational including the third brake light.
2. The neutral safety switch must be operational (or start interlock switch for the manual tranny
folks) located on the clutch master cylinder shaft that penetrates the firewall))

Discussion
This is a simple “how to” write up and basic overview based on my experience. The goal is to add the cruise control function to a truck that didn’t come so equipped from the factory. This mod will not require the installer to modify the trucks electrical system. As with any mod, after installation, and on the initial test drive, please test vehicle in a remote area for your and others safety.

Procedure
 1. With the ignition off, sitting in the driver’s seat with the steering wheel directly in front of you:
1.a. Find the seam of the horn pad, follow it down the steering column to its base.
1.b. Gently pull on the pad’s base directly towards you, this will not take a lot of effort.
1.c. Once the pad dislodges, carefully lift the pad tilting it to one side, exposing the connector.
1.d. Using needle nosed pliers, disconnect the small harness.
1.e. Once disconnected, the old horn pad can be set aside.
 2. Installation is reverse of disassembly. On the back side of the horn pad you will see a pin, centerline. On the column, find the slot that the pin engages and:
2.a. With the small harness made up, slide the pad down, evenly, until the pad is flush with the
remaining steering wheel. Most likely the horn will sound by pushing on the pad.
 3. Your almost done, move to the engine compartment and:
3.a. On the driver’s side, locate the Power Distribution Box.
3.b. Originating from the PDB is a two wire run w/ a connector. The connector will have a dummy plug installed. The two wires are black w/ a red tracer and brown w/ an orange tracer. The connector would, if equipped with factory cruise, connect to the brake master cylinder. This would be a redundant method of cutting off the cruise function if the primary function failed. Since your truck is not factory equipped with cruise, you master cylinder doesn’t have the switch, therefore the connector must be shorted. Do this by:
3.b.1. Remove the dummy plug
3.b.2. With a small, male spade connector, remove the crimping plastic insulator (this is because the insulators are too bulky to be placed side by side in a small connector)
3.b.3. Trim both sides of the spade equally using the side cutters. Test fit. Remember, two spades will be placed close together, trim accordingly.
3.b.4. Once satisfied with the fit of the spades in the connector, make up a short piece of #10 wire, crimp on the spades or solder if desired, and use the heat shrink in place of the plastic insulator removed in step 3.b.2.
3.b.5. Insert the shorting wire into the connector. It’s a good idea to drip some wax on the connections to weather proof. Liquid electrical tape would also surfice.

Alternate Method
There is another method to short the two wire connector.
1. Cut off the connector, leaving a generous pig tail for future splicing.
2. Simply strip and connect the two wires together using a but connector.

I don’t recommend this because if you ever replace the brake master cylinder, purchase a replacement M/C with one fitted for cruise control, purchase the switch that would install in the M/C, remove the shorting wire and connect to the new switch. One step closer to factory!

Testing
As recommended, test in a remote area. Once desired speed is met, engage cruise. Test by tapping clutch pedal, ensure C/C disengages. Reset speed and test again by tapping the brake pedal. Once more by pushing the OFF button on the horn pad.

Fine tuning and pics to follow........

weponhead · 03-31-2007, 02:38 PM

can i do this to a 2000 + 5 spd with a 7.3 xl with no cruise?

94strokerace · 03-31-2007, 04:37 PM

[ QUOTE ]
can i do this to a 2000 + 5 spd with a 7.3 xl with no cruise?

[/ QUOTE ]

I cannot say from experience that it will, however, I dont see why not.

weponhead · 03-31-2007, 09:48 PM

i cant recall if the horn pad has buttons on it on that model or the wheel.. anyone know?