A while back I did a Dana 60 conversion with 3" Reverse Shackle kit and a little taller F350 springs for a little over 4" of total lift. I bought brand new F350 steering for the truck as well with a 4" drop pitman arm. Everything was great and went together without a hitch, except for my steering. When I was driving down the road going through turns (more noticeable at higher speeds) something in the front end would shift and all of a sudden I would have to turn the wheel about another quarter turn to stay on the road. Depending on if it was a left or right turn it would put my steering wheel off center as well and it would stay like that until I went through a turn in the opposite direction. I looked and looked, I thought it was alignment, maybe springs shifting, maybe the rear shackles were twisting a little, maybe it was my kingpins.
It turns out it was none of that, every time I turned the drag link was causing the tie rod to rotate up or down as it turned the wheels left and right. Even with the addition of a 4" drop pitman arm the F350 steering was not designed to operate at that angle. Although it seems some do not have this problem with there lifted F350's it has come to my attention that quite a few on this forum do. I believe there are two solutions to this problem, either a Huge drop pitman arm(6" or more) or a different steering setup. I opted for the different steering. I went with a high steer kit which utilizes a new cap that is bolted to the top of the steering knuckles and provides an attachment point for the new drag link. My drag link is now parallel with the ground as it goes straight across from the pitman arm to the top of the steering knuckle instead of down to the tie rod. Problem solved, I now have great instantanious steering.
I am however not sure if this is offered for ball joint dana 60 axles as mine is 1991 Kingpin Dana 60. Anyway, I went with Off Road Design here in Colorado but I believe there are several other companies out there making high steer kits for these trucks. Hope this helps some of you stay on the road a little easier
Dave
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1997 F250 HD 4x4 5speed Reg Cab, 4" MBRP exhaust, 1.0 turbo housing, Tymar Intake , 17* HPOP,Swamps 150cc, TW 4 position chip, Dana 60 w/RSK, Crossover steering, sittin on 35's
for this kit you are better off with a Kingpin axle however OffRoad somebody?? does offer a ball joint knuckle in a full high steering kit with ball joints as well. When asked for just the knuckle the cost was $500 plus a $500 core, or the full kit for about $750. So far I have done neither but would very much like too.
The other thing to do is use a Energy Suspension boot on teh drag link joint.
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1997 F250 FireTruck Red,CC SB,auto( Prescion TC, HD-2Tugger),5" exhaust, custom Swamp 195cc Hybrid injectors, TWildman 4-pos chip,open air cleaner, I/C w Banks intake, 225,000km,AIC,dual electric fans,Sky mfg RSK w/ D60w/ARB locker,Ramsey 15k# winch, BFG/AT 315's, F450 rear springs, home of Craig's Performance Diesel pictures
" lying is a cheap way out of reality, the real cost is the loss of respect and trust"
Clocking the drag link ends will also prevent the drag link from rolling. Loosen the adjustment sleeve, turn the ends in opposite directions until they stop then back slightly from where they stopped.
Cheers...
__________________ BigBopper 97 F-350 CC XLT 4X4 PSD, E4OD and a few other goodies...
I spent about $300 total for my high steer that included the steering arm that bolted to the knuckle, ARP stud kit to attach it to the knuckle, custom made drag link and huge tie rod ends. Looking back I wish I would have just made the drag link myself, I could've saved about 100 dollars I think. It's just a straight tube with .25 wall thickness and it's tapped to accept the tie rods.
Dave
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1997 F250 HD 4x4 5speed Reg Cab, 4" MBRP exhaust, 1.0 turbo housing, Tymar Intake , 17* HPOP,Swamps 150cc, TW 4 position chip, Dana 60 w/RSK, Crossover steering, sittin on 35's
The tie rod roll issue is the only weak link in the F350 setup, but it beats the Y tie rods on a lifted F250 TTB by a mile. I solved the tie rod roll issue on the F350 by custom making a poly spacer that goes between the tie rod and knuckle with sone washers. Next one I make will have cup washers. I used an Energy poly shock bushing for a big rig, cut down to be tight but not too tight when the tie rod taper is set. Since the angles do change some in the range of steering, if you make it too tight it could pop the tie rod off on full turn. Once I got it set up right, no tie rod roll for the last several years.
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Mine: 91 F250 Reg Cab 4x4 5spd 7.3IDI 4.10LS 145,000 miles. Banks Sidewinder 92 D60 F axle w 97 brakes and Powerlock. Lift: about 4" over stock 250. 33x12.50x16.5 Pro Comp MTs Magnaflow 12" muffler. Sees dirt everyday. Used to haul hay, wood, feed cows, check fence.
Hers: 96F250 CCSB 7.3 PSD 4x4 5spd 3.55 LS 190,000 miles. Puchased 7/03, Looked for a 5spd CCSB for a year!Dana 60 front axle, at stock F350 height (for now) Energy Poly bushings, Bilsteins, 305/70/16 Pro Comps on 16x10 Weld Outbacks, AFE Pro7,TYMAR 3x3.5x4 downpipe,TYMAR 5" straightpipe, gutted EBV, IH Non EBV pedistal,New Alliant AC Injectors,(stage 1)Cal reg kit, SBC Con O clutch, permenent clutch bushing fix, AC mod with a different twist, AMP Powersteps with custom brackets and wiring(one of 2 OBS trucks with them according to AMP) Line of Fire. Sees dirt everyday.
My Company pickup: 86 F250 6.9 C6 320,000 miles Co trucks 5 89 to 94 IDI's, plus about 50 more diesels.
Diesel Mechanic 28 yrs
Yes my drag link is relocted above the springs now and the tie rod is in it's factory location. This is what they referred to as "High Steer". Crossover steering would involve relocating the tie rod above the springs as well, which I plan on doing eventually.
Dave
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1997 F250 HD 4x4 5speed Reg Cab, 4" MBRP exhaust, 1.0 turbo housing, Tymar Intake , 17* HPOP,Swamps 150cc, TW 4 position chip, Dana 60 w/RSK, Crossover steering, sittin on 35's
Yes my drag link is relocted above the springs now and the tie rod is in it's factory location. This is what they referred to as "High Steer". Crossover steering would involve relocating the tie rod above the springs as well, which I plan on doing eventually.
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