Power Strokes 1994-1997 Upgrades and AftermarketUpgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1994-1997 Ford F-Series with Power Stroke engine.
i recently installed some homemade tractions bars and im not sure how to adjust them. I used the same setup as dzljim's website (great site by the way) and my question is should the bars be adjusted out (pushing on the axle) or adjusted in (pulling on the axle)? I have some pics loaded but not all of them, i will work on that. The bars did seem to help with my wheel hop problem, which was the reason for installing them but i have no clue if they are adjusted properly. I seem to have plenty of suspention travel, however i was towing about 12000 lbs. the day after i installed them and i noticed a cracked weld on one bracket on the frame (i will post more pics). I am not what caused this (bad weld, to much weight, not adjusted properly?) I would think that since the bars allow for nearly full suspention travel that i would be able to drive the truck normally but maybe im wrong. Can you adjust for a heavy load? The bars are not really adjusted tight in either direction at the current time. Thanks for the input.
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1997 F-250HD Reg. Cab 4X4 PSD "The Stroker", ZF5, 4.10, LUK Clutch Conversion, Coolant Filter, John Deere Coolant Eye, Custom Open Air Intake, 3" to 4" DP, 4" Straight Exhaust, Gutted EBPV, 4 Position Wildman Chip, Bully Dog Boost/Pyro, HPO Crossover Line, Amsoil Bypass Filter, All Amsoil Fluids, Cali. FPR, High Voltage IDM, Upgraded Headlight Harness, Scosche Remote Starter, Add-a-leafs in the front, One Ton springs in the rear, Owned Since 08/20/2004, 216K
Nice job man! Looks like a kit out of a box. Yes, more pics please, if you can show the mounts on the frame and the axle that would help alot. It depends on where your mounts are as to how you adjust the bars but the objective is to keep the front of the pinion down.
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2000 F250, 7.3L, ext-cab long bed 4x4
200K+ miles, air bags, goose neck hitch, x-wheel
aih delete, 10K mod, diy 6637 filter, gutted muffler
autometer GS series pyro/trans temp/boost gauges
tru-cool trans cooler, sonnax tri kit
riffraff fuel rail x-over and hpx
Bilstein 5100 rear shocks
255/85r16s
Here are all the pics i took, i dont have a pic of the broken mount but i will get one. I possibly broke due to the fact that the frame brackets were made from hardened steel and regular flat stock (plate that bolts to the frame was hardened and the side plates that the bars bolt to are reg. steel. Maybe the weld didnt penetrate into the hardened steel far enough?
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1997 F-250HD Reg. Cab 4X4 PSD "The Stroker", ZF5, 4.10, LUK Clutch Conversion, Coolant Filter, John Deere Coolant Eye, Custom Open Air Intake, 3" to 4" DP, 4" Straight Exhaust, Gutted EBPV, 4 Position Wildman Chip, Bully Dog Boost/Pyro, HPO Crossover Line, Amsoil Bypass Filter, All Amsoil Fluids, Cali. FPR, High Voltage IDM, Upgraded Headlight Harness, Scosche Remote Starter, Add-a-leafs in the front, One Ton springs in the rear, Owned Since 08/20/2004, 216K
I was really surprised at how well this project came out, pretty simple install with the right tools, all in all i had about 75 bucks in material and about 3 hours in the shop. i just hope i can figure out why the bracket broke.
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1997 F-250HD Reg. Cab 4X4 PSD "The Stroker", ZF5, 4.10, LUK Clutch Conversion, Coolant Filter, John Deere Coolant Eye, Custom Open Air Intake, 3" to 4" DP, 4" Straight Exhaust, Gutted EBPV, 4 Position Wildman Chip, Bully Dog Boost/Pyro, HPO Crossover Line, Amsoil Bypass Filter, All Amsoil Fluids, Cali. FPR, High Voltage IDM, Upgraded Headlight Harness, Scosche Remote Starter, Add-a-leafs in the front, One Ton springs in the rear, Owned Since 08/20/2004, 216K
ok, i went through your pics and I think if anything you should adjust the links out. Making them longer would control any axle wrap and allow for as much up travel as you need. Anybody else feel free to jump in and correct me if I'm wrong!
I don't know why the weld broke on your mount but I think you could add to the strength and rigidity by boxing the front of the mount. adding a piece of flat bar to the front face would help tie it all together.
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2000 F250, 7.3L, ext-cab long bed 4x4
200K+ miles, air bags, goose neck hitch, x-wheel
aih delete, 10K mod, diy 6637 filter, gutted muffler
autometer GS series pyro/trans temp/boost gauges
tru-cool trans cooler, sonnax tri kit
riffraff fuel rail x-over and hpx
Bilstein 5100 rear shocks
255/85r16s
the rods are accually a top link for a 3-point hitch setup on most ag. tractors. I puchased these from TSC for about 22 bucks each, i cut them in half and welded the 1 1/4 pipe in the middle, i think it turned out pretty nice. I got the idea from Dzljim's website. Maybe longer bars would have been the way o go though. Thanks for the input guys.
-Shane
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1997 F-250HD Reg. Cab 4X4 PSD "The Stroker", ZF5, 4.10, LUK Clutch Conversion, Coolant Filter, John Deere Coolant Eye, Custom Open Air Intake, 3" to 4" DP, 4" Straight Exhaust, Gutted EBPV, 4 Position Wildman Chip, Bully Dog Boost/Pyro, HPO Crossover Line, Amsoil Bypass Filter, All Amsoil Fluids, Cali. FPR, High Voltage IDM, Upgraded Headlight Harness, Scosche Remote Starter, Add-a-leafs in the front, One Ton springs in the rear, Owned Since 08/20/2004, 216K
well i think the welds broke due to mating two different types of steel, does anyone else have any input on the adjustment issue as far as everyday driving (if thats possible with bars) or heavy loads? Thanks.
-Shane
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1997 F-250HD Reg. Cab 4X4 PSD "The Stroker", ZF5, 4.10, LUK Clutch Conversion, Coolant Filter, John Deere Coolant Eye, Custom Open Air Intake, 3" to 4" DP, 4" Straight Exhaust, Gutted EBPV, 4 Position Wildman Chip, Bully Dog Boost/Pyro, HPO Crossover Line, Amsoil Bypass Filter, All Amsoil Fluids, Cali. FPR, High Voltage IDM, Upgraded Headlight Harness, Scosche Remote Starter, Add-a-leafs in the front, One Ton springs in the rear, Owned Since 08/20/2004, 216K
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F-250HD Reg. Cab 4X4 PSD "The Stroker", ZF5, 4.10, LUK Clutch Conversion, 
Linear Mode
