I have a 1997 F350 dually with an E4OD in it. I was wondering how tough it would be to throw a manual tranny in it? What would all have to be changed? Has any one on the forum done this swap and wrote about it?How much would a swap like this cost? I was wondering if this swap would be possible for a while and am thinking about doing it. I was trying to get some feed back on it.
Not sure if the computer will like it? It might be looking for the auto all the time?
I am sure the lengths are different so drive shafts will not be the same.
If you can get the trany for little to nothing it might be worth it.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
My buddy did this starting with a 95 F-250 SC auto. The auto pcm works fine with the stick shift. There is a minor wiring swap to accomodate the clutch safety start switch. He got every thing he needed from a wrecked 97 F-350 CC to install into his SC except the instrument cluster.. He did have to cut the driveshafts due to the wheelbase difference. Changed out the steering columns and installed the stick shift doghouse on the transmission tunnel. Swapped the auto brake pedal assembly for the stick clutch/brake pedal box assembly. Got a LUK slutch/flywheel single mass clutch to replace the stock dual mass setup off of e-vay. In his case the 95 f-250 transfer case was the same as the 97 F-350 transfer case including the Cardan style front driveshaft. Some F-250s do not have the Cardan drive shaft and have a different model transfer case. Scavenging a wrecked truck got my buddy every nut and bolt needed for this swap. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
Except for the wiring swap and cutting the driveshfts due to the wheelbase change, it comes apart and assembles per the factory shop manual (all stock parts). I believe if they are the same wheelbase there is no driveshaft cutting involved, just have to use the stick drivceshafts.
Thanks for the help guys, I've been nursing a poor E40D since I replaced the dead original. I can get my hands on a wrecked 97 truck with a manual for cheap, so I was just wondrering what it would take to get it done. Thanks for the help. I think I'll look into it further.
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1997 F350 Dually Supercab XLT, Down Pipe Replaced, Cat Free, 4" Straight Exhaust, K&N Air Filter
can I ask you guys why? if you do a lot of towing then I can see but I would love to have an auto, for the money and time it will cost to swap, you can build an auto tranny that will last a long time. I dont mind mine, just would like to have a auto spd bc I know in my setup a auto would get better mileage.
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96 F250 PSD ext cab SB, 5 spd 3'' DP with straight piped exhaust, tymar intake. 135k mi.
My dad looked into this swap on his '97. he lives in Arizona and there are a lot of trucks there in the wrecking yards with the parts. The parts he would need for the swap would cost him $3700. He has changed his mind and is waiting for his factory tranny to die then he is going to get a BTS built auto. He felt it was too long the truck would be down and not worth it anymore.
The best way we figured to do it would be to find a identical truck and buy it. Swap everything and resell the truck you bought. Ties up a lot of money and risky about being able to get your money back.
Good luck,
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We bought the PSD engine, 5-speed transmission, transfer case, driveshafts, steering column, and ALL of the small parts (except the PCM) to do the swap for $2500 from a fellow TDS'er who wrecked his truck. We did have to drive 650 miles one way to get it though. I figure the engine was worth $1500 so my buddy came up with the rest ($1000) for the rest of the powertrain and small parts. He replaced the dual mass clutch with a single mass LUK (off of e-bay) since the original clutch was toast. He modded the driveshafts himself to fit his truck ('97 F-350 Crewcab source to '95 F-250 Supercab). Other than that, every thing worked using the '95 auto PCM with a wiring swap to accomodate the clutch safety switch. He has since added a DP Tuner chip without any strange glitches.
The fuel milage increased 0.5 to 1.0 mpg depending on conditions with the installation of the stick transmission alone towing his 5'ver over the same several hundred mile route (definitly not flat land) with a feeling of more control with the stick also. He has had further milage increases with the addition of a SD intercooler and the DP chip. He's a Happy Camper! (And no longer shiftless)[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
Always disliked fighting the roll backwards on an incline start especially towing with a manual. Then the people who dart in front and hit the brakes making you down shift.
True, the automatics do cost more when overhaul time comes. A poor rebuild will cost you big in $ and trouble. Controlling ATF temp has always given me good tranny life. I guess it's just what you prefer to drive. We all agree on diesel power [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]. Anybody swapping pm if you have an automatic core to get rid of.
__________________ TheRacer XBuilt E4OD THAT CAN Video. 1997 F-350 7.3 Twin Turboed Power Stroke Diesel. Fueled with 473 + cc's of Dieseland nitrous!
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i just swapped a zf in place of my e4 on my bronco. the zf is just about 3" shorter, requiring driveshaft mods regardless (unless you can find a stock replacement). A good e4 rebuild will cost 2500 to 3K. Figure parts for the swap including a tranny can be had for 2 or less. Labor, well, I have no idea as I did it myself. I wont ever use an E4 again. I have been through 3 of them, and never towed anything. I also had lots of cooling on mine, a temp gauge and did all the things you should. It just isnt a great tranny IMO. I know BTS makes a nice one, but whats it cost? Clutches are cheap and easy to replace, thats why I went with a stick. Also, the zf 1st gear is so slow, if you roll back, learn to drive better
if someone needs a trans for this swap ive got a nice zf s42 from a rollover i pulled the engine from. just sorry i didnt have it when i needed 1 for my truck.
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1994.5 superduty custom ext. cab(via a rear section of a 91 cab) 19' jerrdan rollback wrecker 7.3di 5spd. 5:38 ratio: ford aic, dieselzite air intake, cons performance 3.0 inch downpipe, modded ebpv, bypassed bpv, fpr "bb" mod, 10k&18k switchable mod, dumped the dual mass flywheel setup for a south bend single mass con(o)kit, with a flywheel from a prior luk conversion. everytime something is changed the power comes alive. oh yeah and a blue cps from a international 466 engine got tired of being let down by the stockers.(this one never fails) to be done: idm 140volt mod, AC code injectors, guages, twin sequential turbos.
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