Turbo ped mod

[bigjohnson]

I know this has been asked alot before but i coulnd't get the search too work.

Ive got three trucks that are leaking from the pedistals, ones a 94, 96, and my 97. im gonna do the 94 first, the guy is not in a big hurry so it can be toar apart for a while.

what have you guys done with the ped just gutt the stuff inside and seal it up or grind the hump off and get it sealed?

TPhanks Ben

[tjbeggs]

cut the hump and weld up the holes. there are three of them I believe. just need to find someone to weld aluminum for you.

[richmondfarms]

Sawzall with a combination wood/metal blade will slice the old cyl off, 30 minutes at the welding shop and you are good to go.

[Dieselfever78]

I just took the pushrod out cut off short enough, then used a 1/4" NPT tap on the hole and plugged it, put all the guts back in how they came out. No leaks here.

Just make sure you unplug or remove the solenoid so it doesn't try to actuate the EBPV

-Michael

[Soaggydogg]

I think member Rick96F250 will send you one modified and you send your stock one back. You have no down time other than swapping it out.

Changed the name and added a link.

[Aljay]

[ QUOTE ]
I just took the pushrod out cut off short enough, then used a 1/4" NPT tap on the hole and plugged it, put all the guts back in how they came out. No leaks here.

Just make sure you unplug or remove the solenoid so it doesn't try to actuate the EBPV

-Michael

[/ QUOTE ]x2

[masami]

I gutted the piston assembly, disconnected the solenoid and used a 1/4"NPT pipe plug to seal the shaft hole. Ran it that way for 80K miles with no apparent oiling problems or leaks and the turbo was in great shape. After R&Ring the turbo 4 times in four months, finally got tired of the turbo R&R hassle and sawzalled and ground off the piston assembly, had the piston oil slots welded up and plugged the solenoid oil return passage with a locktited 1/8"NPT plug. Its now very easy to R&R the turbo. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]

[richmondfarms]

[ QUOTE ]
I think member ricksf250 will send you one modified and you send your stock one back. You have no down time other than swapping it out.

PM me or post if I have the wrong member.

[/ QUOTE ]

Our pedistal mod man is rick96f250. Dangit Ben you should know that, he has a red number.

[bigjohnson]

Thanks for all the input guys

so i can cut the hump off and have it welded up thats option one. or i could just take all the stuff out and put a plug in the hole where the rod would come out..

Ben

[Patrick Feeley]

Either one. You'll need to leave the solenoid in (and electrically disconnected) on option 2. Cheers!

[tubzz]

[ QUOTE ]
Thanks for all the input guys

so i can cut the hump off and have it welded up thats option one. or i could just take all the stuff out and put a plug in the hole where the rod would come out..

Ben

[/ QUOTE ]


on #2 you just pull the rod out tap the rod hole put in a plug then put the cap and clip back on un plug the plug and its done.i ran my truck like that for 3 years and the wifes for a year.then when i did the D66 on her truck i cut the barrel of and welded it up.works great.their is some pics of it in my webshot go to the wifes truck

[Jcart]

Another option,

Assuming they are leaking throught the EBPV rod hole, I did this as I wanted to continue to use the EBPV for an engine brake. Pulled the turbo and pedistal. Undid the snapring pulled out the cap, pulled out the plunger assembly. When looking at the piston end of the plunger you will see the sealing piston plunger has a grooved U-shaped (cross sectional view) sealing nylon type gasket with a Stainless accordian spring material inside the "U" of the gasket to keep it pressed against the cylinder. What I did was force a small O-ring inside the Stainless accordian spring material to put more pressure on the gasket and inturn move it out against the cylinder walls (use a small flat srew driver to press in the O-ring). Upon install of the plunger assembly is should still slide with reasonable hand pressure back and forth. On the rod end of the assembly I made a new small gasket (from thin gasket material) and placed it between the washer and stock gasket so as to limit leakage past the rod.

Didn't have a digital camera then (couple of years ago now) sorry no pix. I will say have been leak proof for (guessing) 100,000 plus Kms, and I use the EBPV "brake" everyday I drive....

One last thought as I recall if you intend on just gutting and sealing the rod hole with a Pipe plug you MUST LEAVE PISTON assembly (and cut rod short) inside for proper turbo lubricaton.

jrc

[johndeerebones]

[ QUOTE ]

One last thought as I recall if you intend on just gutting and sealing the rod hole with a Pipe plug you MUST LEAVE PISTON assembly (and cut rod short) inside for proper turbo lubricaton.

jrc

[/ QUOTE ]

As long as you disconnect the solenoid where the ebpv doesn't activate it doesn't hurt a thing to take it out, I did that about 50k ago, no if you let the solenoid activate the oil has an unrestricted path back to the pan, so obviously it'll go there instead of to the bearings.

[Jcart]

johndeerebones,

I stand corrected, my oppologies for any mis-information to all [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img], Perhaps I was ill-advised (by a turbo rebuild shop) or more then likely I misunderstood..... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]. They had shown me there is a drain hole in the back of the EBP cast cylinder where any oil that leaks passed the piston, plunger assembly will drain back to the engine. I was lead to believe that if you removed the piston/plunger assembly, (as in totally remove and plug rod hole) oil pressure and volume is not be enough (as it would drain though formentioned drain hole) to lubricate the turbo. This shop had advised me NOT to remove the plunger assembly , just shorten rod and plug hole????

Mute point for me as I continue to use EBPV as Brake.....

Good point about unplugging the EBPV Solenoid, obviously missed that point and makes sense to me know......

Thanks for the clarification... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

jrc

[masami]

My turbo has lasted for 80K miles with the piston rod plugged, the guts removed and the solenoid leads cut off. It has almost zero endplay. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]