I need to know what the valve stem size for our valves is,so I can buy the locks for my retainers.Thanks [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
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Clifford A.Thomas III
Dyno'd 343 hp and 685 ft.lbs. torque #2 tow setting
Summit sells two different 10 degree locks # CCA 617-16 and CCA 618-16.One is for lash cap the other is not.Which will I need?They fit a .310 stem I believe this will work also,right?
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Clifford A.Thomas III
Dyno'd 343 hp and 685 ft.lbs. torque #2 tow setting
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Summit sells two different 10 degree locks # CCA 617-16 and CCA 618-16.One is for lash cap the other is not.Which will I need?They fit a .310 stem I believe this will work also,right?
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If your valve stems use lash caps, then buy the locks with the lash caps recesses.
Lash caps look like little metal cups that fit on the top ends of the valve stems....If you select non lash cap locks and then install lash caps, the locks may release when the valve gets tapped open....and that's about the worst thing that you could ever want to happen.
Lash caps are made of harder materials to prevent wear on the stems and are often offered in various thicknesses to provide differing lash clearances where there is no other means to adjust clearance.
Depending on the geometry, you can often use lash cap style locks without lash caps, but not the other way around.
But wait a minute...how did you get in this situation?...did you buy a basket case with disassembled heads, or did you do the tear down?
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95 F-350 DRW extended cab Dixie Custom, 180K troublefree miles, straight pipes, no other mods....Yet.
Valves float due to either weak springs or reving the engine beyond the design limits of the components in valve train.
When valves float, the power curve hits a brick wall cause you end up with a 'hole' in the engine, and the exhaust valves can burn instantly.(not assuming you don't know this)
Sounds like you might have some tech stuff to share on the forum....I ain't seen anything associated with performance head work/cam and valve train on these engines. All posted so far deals with mostly bolt on intake/exhaust and turbo stuff.
Besides that, I'm kinda nosey...What you got going on?
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95 F-350 DRW extended cab Dixie Custom, 180K troublefree miles, straight pipes, no other mods....Yet.
I like nosey [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img].I dynoed a couple of weeks ago and I and some others feel my valve train might have a little to do with the low hp # amoung otherthings [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]The engine is capable of more rpms now than when it was stock,so I should have upgraded the valvetrain when I rebuilt it.
Tinscout,I going with Comp Cams 26120-16 beehive springs,795-16 retainers,either 618 or 617-16 locks and I don't know if I need them,4696-16 locators.I need to find out if I really need them though [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
Also,who has done a valve spring install while the engine is still in the truck?I got a set heads I could redo and install after their finished.
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Clifford A.Thomas III
Dyno'd 343 hp and 685 ft.lbs. torque #2 tow setting
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Who has done a valve spring install while the engine is still in the truck?I got a set heads I could redo and install after their finished.
[/ QUOTE ]I tried it once on a small block Chevy and gave up as soon as I dropped the very first valve I tried it on....But that's just me....All I know is that as soon as the valve get's bumped off it's seat, the air flowing past it tends to suck it down.
I guess a guy could rig up an air hose to a glow plug or injector hole and try it with the piston at TDC on the firing stroke. Just make sure to have it in gear so you don't roll the engine with air pressure and be real careful when you lever down on the retainers to watch that the stems don't drop even the slightest bit....Get you a magnet on a stick ready to suck the locks out as soon as you release them, then ease the leverage off.
Do you think you floated the intake or exhaust valves?
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95 F-350 DRW extended cab Dixie Custom, 180K troublefree miles, straight pipes, no other mods....Yet.
i had this problem,floating valves with to much boost,and it always happen after i let off of it after wot.around 40-45 lbs did it for me.would bend a push rod or break a rocker.
i didn't use the set up that you are going to be useing,i went a differnt way.but i will say it would be very tough to do with the motor in the truck.from changing the valves to putting the head back on with out damageing the gaskit.it would a lot easyer for you to just pull the motor and do it on a stand
[/ QUOTE ]Not necessarily....there is 'float' and there is 'loft'...Loft is when a valve doesn't follow the downramp of the cam but manages to go shut but not shut long enuff, or not shut IAW designed cam profile....float is when it doesn't go shut at all...Loft can happen on the intakes of a boosted engine before it does it on the exhaust.
I was just wondering if his dyno guys managed to determine exactly what was happening or simply labled it 'float' and suggested he go with stiffer springs.
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95 F-350 DRW extended cab Dixie Custom, 180K troublefree miles, straight pipes, no other mods....Yet.
I've been told by those who run engines at and above the level I am at I should be looking into up grading the valve train.I guess in a way it is cheap insurance in the long run [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
Tbuzz,what is the route you went with?
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Clifford A.Thomas III
Dyno'd 343 hp and 685 ft.lbs. torque #2 tow setting
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