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Worst fuel system ever?

3K views 21 replies 13 participants last post by  ranaumo 
#1 ·
Well call me crazy, but I do what I can to jump on here every night and do my "studying" as I call it (to justify the time to my wife). Over the past couple of years on this site, I have noticed that roughly 1 in 15 posts are about some sort of fuel leak. I must admit, I too have had a small one for the past 7000 miles, and I can't put my finger on it yet. It seems to go away when the weather gets warm, and come back when the weather gets cold....but staying on track....With all of the expensive mods that we do to our trucks, dosent it seem like the first thing we should do is get rid of the stock fuel system and replace with electric. I don't want this post to end up getting yanked or moved to the upgrades/aftermarket, because I want to talk to the guys with the stock systems still and hear your oppinions. I'm getting pretty tired of all of that goofy garbage in my valley, and every time I see a picture of the clean, dry, beautiful empty valley where the fuel system garbage once was, I must admit....it makes me very happy. It's like a black hole down there. What do you guys think? Any particular kits that are the best? Thanks.

Joe
 
#2 ·
I've got 150K miles with no fuel system problems at all /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif

BUT- if you do a thorough search this has been covered many times before, many guys have converted to an electric pump system and done away with most of the factory stuff.
 
#4 ·
2 fuel bowls rotted out and finally replaced filter to a dahl
 
#5 ·
I just posted a tread about changing to a superduty fuel system I have the same problem you have I have a leaking fuel pump right now too. I want something that will fix the problem and not just temp fix with a new fuel pump that will start leaking in 6 months. And I would like to get some proformace out of it.
 
#6 ·
I dont think it is a major problem. Heck most of the Fuel pump changes came at a decent mileage. I changed mine at 200K over a year ago and still no leaks, it was leaking out of the weep hole when I changed it. Fuel bowl still original. Granted it is not the best system in the world but what is?


ART
 
#7 ·
I have the Bdp fuel system and really like it. I have had it on almost a year wiht no problems. Bean is good to deal with.


CHris
 
#8 ·
I'm running the SX system from DI with the reg. return system from Swamps. Holds 68lbs 24-7 without a flinch no matter how I drive it.

I know I didn't start with the mechanical pump, but I've changed everything you would have to, and I really like the SX pump with the 5/8" pickup. I do plan to drop my factory fuel filter housing and just run a Dahl 150 pre-pump and no other fuel filters. Course that's so I can fit some more oil system junk in the valley, lol.

.02

Charlie
 
#9 ·
OK, now here's where it's going to get complicated...
I've got the CA model truck....the one with the BOSCH fuel dampner behind the fuel pump. That said, will I still be able to switch to an aftermarket setup? Also, what is the point of that dampner anyways? I've heard it's because our CA trucks have different injectors...but I can't confirm. Any takers?

Thanks!

Joe
 
#10 ·
Yes, and Yes.

The cali trucks had 130cc split shots, they don't like the pulsing fuel that the pump gives out, so it had a damper to smooth out the pressure.

You will still be able to do a full electric system, and ditch the stock pump, the injectors will prolly like it even better.

Diesel Rod
 
#11 ·
So I would be ditching the fuel dampner also? Does the electric pump cause less of a fuel surge/pulse than the lift pump? This is looking better and better to me by the minute. Also, if the CALI trucks have the 130cc injectors, what do the other 49 states have? Why the difference? Thanks

Joe
 
#13 ·
I have heard 120, 125, and 130cc on the CA splits, not sure exactly but it's around there. The 49 state trucks' injectors are 98cc single shot injectors.
 
#14 ·
Thanks Ryan, yep 98cc, just remembered,that before the advent of lower priced modded injectors, everyone argued that the most you could get out of the stockers was about 90cc stock, no chip...........ain't it great! now a 250cc hybrid is not just science fiction....
 
#15 ·
[ QUOTE ]
So I would be ditching the fuel dampner also? Does the electric pump cause less of a fuel surge/pulse than the lift pump?

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes, most electric pumps are a vane style, they are alot smoother. the stocker is a piston pump, the fuel pressure will just 20psi at 3K rpm.

Diesel Rod
 
#16 ·
I was reading something in one of the forums about the fuel line not having a tight vacuum after switching to the aftermarket electric setup, and the fuel draining back into the fuel tank withink a few hours after shutting off the motor, and causing a longer startup cycle....is this true? Basically, are there ANY drawbacks to swapping out the stock system and going with Beans setup that he sells. Also, when you switch over the new setup, what do you do with all of the sensors and wiring for the fuel restriction sensor, fuel bowl heater, and so on..... Just curious if it's something a weekend warrior can tackle. Thanks!

Joe
 
#17 ·
I honestly have not done one, yet. but I will put a check valve after the pump to prevent fuel from draiing back, ann when you turn the key on and have to wait for the WTS light to go out, that should give you enough time to recharge the system also.

as for the wiring stuff I have gutten mine long time ago, no fuel heater, water in fuel or fuel filter sensors for over a year.

there is a plug on the passenger side of the bowl, with five wires, two of them go to the IPR, the other three are these aformetioned wires, they were all melted together so I just took them out.

Diesel Rod
 
#18 ·
[ QUOTE ]
ann when you turn the key on and have to wait for the WTS light to go out, that should give you enough time to recharge the system

[/ QUOTE ]
I'm pretty sure that the design a lot of people use is to tap into the wire that gets a logic "high" when the oil preassure reaches 5-7psi (i.e., when the starter cranks over). The logic high energizes the coil on the relay, and provides the 12v to the pump. From what i've been told, that's how the 99+ are rigged OEM. True? Anyone, please chime in here and correct me...but the one-way check valve sounds like a definate plus. Main thing, are there ANY DRAWBACKS to the aftermarket electronic setup OTHER than price? Also, does it seem like something that a weekend warrior can tackle? I guess I should also PM Bean and ask what kind of distance support he provides to customers who buy his kit. I think I really want to do this, but I need the confidence, money, and beer. I've got a little of each left...maybe together they can make something happen /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
#19 ·
Bean's system uses residual fuel pressure on startup. After the engine starts then there is an oil pressure switch that energizes a relay that puts power to the fuel pump. This switch also acts as a safety to shut off the pump when the engine dies and oil pressure drops.

Bean's system is based on using a SD fuel pump, Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator and Stanadyne cannister/cartrige type fuel filters. It is a return fuel system. It gives a smoother idle and substantially higher fuel pressure than the mechanical system of the obs under load. It is adaptable to using dual fuel pumps and doesn't require a rocket scientist to install it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif
 
#20 ·
Put one in over the holidays. Couple of points to mention regarding that system.

1. When installing the oil pressure switch into the oil filter assy, do not be directly under it, cause it does leak some oil /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

2. The SD pump works best when primed (pull some suction on the hose leaving the filters so the fuel pump has fuel to pick up on).

3. Check your fuel return lines (factory crimped lines from the front of the heads to the regulator). Mine were cracked and I found out the hard way when the regulator reached pressure...

4. I tapped into the fuse block in the engine compartment. I spliced and soldered into the 15A fuse for the switched on voltage. It did not affect my auto start remote either.

The truck does run smoother and is more responsive /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Good system!

This may give you some ideas: http://homepage.mac.com/ranaumo/PhotoAlbum8.html

Ron
 
#21 ·
When doing the installation of the SD style pump, have the front tank near empty and the rear tank about full. Select the front tank before cutting the supply line from the selector valve. This way you do not drain much fuel while changing over the supply line to the new fuel system.

Before trying to start the truck, switch over to the rear tank with the ignition on. The rear tank is higher so it gravity feeds into the new fuel setup making it easy for the electric pump to prime.

I installed a bypass switch across the oil pressure switch just in case there was a problem with getting the engine to start. This has not happened so far. However, I used the switch to run the pump without running the engine (key on) to set the fuel pressure regulator. I also used an inertia (crash) switch off of an early 90's gasser in series with the oil switch to provide for instant fuel shutoff in case of a crash.

I have a 4x4 SuperCab so I did not have enough clearance for the hose loops that connect the filters to the fuel pump. Not enough room for the frame mounted pump between the front tank and the transfer case. I used 3/8" steel tubing, straight flare fittings off of the filters and close bends to the fuel pump using short hose pieces to connect to the fuel pump for sound isolation of the pump.
 
#22 ·
I had to mount mine near the oil bypass unit, so I had to slightly modify the unit to gain clearance.

Good point on the tanks. My driveway slopes down, so I had to pull fuel uphill. You know, diesel even tastes better than gas, just leaves a much longer aftertaste /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/vomit.gif

Ron
 
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