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1988 starting after parked for awhile

6K views 76 replies 11 participants last post by  oldrebuiltdodge 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello,

My dad recently passed away and I am trying to get his 1988 Ford diesel F350 dually started. I might not be posting in the right section of the forum for the model. I don't know anything about diesels. The truck has sat parked for about two years I am guessing. It ran fine as far as I know, it has just been parked for a while. I just need to get it started for now to move it off the street because they are threatening to tow it.

Both the batteries are dead and my attempts to do the normal jump starting it using another vehicle have failed. It just turns over for up to 10 seconds before the batteries die and I have to charge it using jumpers again.

From what I can tell online, the most common thing people do is loosen the injector lines. Turn it over until gas comes out. Tighten them back up and start it. (assuming I can even identify them... I am 100% new to diesels)

I am not living near the vehicle so I am doing my research before I head out there. Does this sound like the best way to get it going? What other tiny things should I be aware of? For example, When I turn the ignition on, the water light goes out after only 1-2 seconds. How long should I leave the ignition turned on before starting? Some videos I have watched have a clicking sound when they turn the ignition on. This truck doesn't have that. Is there a pump pressuring the lines or glow plugs or anything I need to activate before turning it over?

I recall seeing my dad using starter fluid spray once or twice but I have no idea where he sprayed it. I have found conflicting views online on to use spray or not, and one guy showing spraying just a tiny bit in where some air filter was that he pulled out. Also, the temperature here is about 90F so we aren't worried about cold weather starting.

Thank you for the help.

PS: The gas gauge reads 1/2 both with the ignition on and without. I'm used to vehicles only showing the fuel level when the ignition is on so I don't know if the gauge is stuck or not. I don't remember him having a problem with the fuel gauge so I assume it's working.
 
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#2 ·
First thing the diesel needs a lot of power to get the engine up to speed before it can get enough compression to fire. Two good batteries is going to be just the start of the project. If you give us an area there may be a member that can help with this undertaking. Getting the old girl running may not be that hard for someone that's been around them awhile but to try and lead a complete stranger through is daunting for everyone. I know the 88-91 engine well
 
#3 · (Edited)
Thanks for the response.

I'm going to attempt what I learned online in the morning and try contacting a guy tomorrow who I was told has a truck repair business. I'd post his website but I don't want to get flagged for spam.

It's possible the truck was started in the past year but could have been up to two years since it was started.
 
#5 · (Edited)
First of all, lets find out whether you have a 6.9 or a 7.3 diesel engine. On a milled pad on the drivers side next to the IP (Injector Pump) gear housing is a stamped number, it will start out with 6.9 or 7.3 then a bunch of other numbers (block serial number).

Is the transmission a Manual or an Automatic?

You Said.
When I turn the ignition on, the water light goes out after only 1-2 seconds. How long should I leave the ignition turned on before starting?
Turning the key to On, you should see a light WTS (Wait To Start) on the dash next to the water light. Depending on ambient temperature the WTS light may or may not come On, if it does, that is the cycle time when the glow plugs are heating the combustion chamber (Pre Cups), when that WTS light goes out it's safe to start the engine then. Never use a starting fluid (Ether)if that WTS light is On.

One NEW fully charged battery is enough to start the engine, but Two is preferable for a long period of cranking. Crank for 20 seconds, then let the starter cool for 2 minutes, you don't want to burn out the starter.

Since your fuel gauge is not working correct, I would add about 5 gallons of fuel to a tank your using, to make sure it's above a 1/4 tank full.

Get a Remote starter button to use, there cheap, then you can see what's going on with the engine. Crack open each injector fuel line a turn or two, when you see fuel at any, tighten the nut back up, 5/8" wrench.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Thanks for the response and schematic Trucker87,
That looks like the engine. It might also be a turbo? There is a large black thing next to the air filter that says turbo on it I think I recall.

Here is an update.

I went down there today early. The mechanic guy couldn't come out until noon so I gave it a go myself.

The batteries are dated only 4 years old.
I hooked up jumper cables from an old Buick car. Let it charge for a while while I checked the fluids. Coolant was really low but everything else was good. I loosened the fuel lines. Only about 3/4 of them because a couple were hard to reach. I turned the ignition on. The WTS light never comes on. I heard a clicking so I just left the key on until the clicking stopped. I then gave it a go for 5-10 seconds turning it over. It turned over strong. I did that about 15 times waiting a minute before each attempt. Each time getting out and checking the lines. Finally it seemed like fluid was starting to come out of half of them but not the others. I tightened the ones that fluid was coming out of then did it about 5 more times.

Then I just tightened them all back down. I then attempted about 3 more times. It almost started... then the next time Fired right up!!! I had someone pull the jumper cables while I had to hold the gas down to keep it running for a few minutes.

Got out and there was a serious fuel leak under the truck. It was leaking from two of the injector lines in the back under the air filter where I couldn't really reach. I removed the air filter. It was filthy. Got in there and they were so tight I couldn't even get them loose but the part where the hose line goes between them was wiggling. I wiggled it around a bit and that stopped most of the leak. Drove it around the block several times and the leak went away almost 100%.

From there on out it starts super easy. Breaks are very hard to press down and don't seem to work very well stopping the truck. I've never drove this before and not used to driving something this big so it's hard for me to know how normal that is. Other than that it runs and drives really great.

Since your fuel gauge is not working correct, I would add about 5 gallons of fuel to a tank your using, to make sure it's above a 1/4 tank full.
So the fuel gauge should go to E when I turn the ignition off? The truck has two tanks and a switch on the dash to switch between them I assume. When I flip the switch the needle moves slightly.
 

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#7 · (Edited)
You did super good getting it started. Yes, it always requires a lot of cranking to purge all the air out of the fuel system. There is damn few Mechanics around that know about these old Ford/Navistar diesels.

A hard to push Brake peddle is the results of LOW or NO vacuum to the brake booster, check all the vacuum lines from the vacuum pump.

When you turn the key On and get no WTS and only hear clicking, that is normal in 70*F and up temperature, the clicking is the glow plug relay cycling, it can do that for up to 2 minutes.

The rubber hose lines between the injectors is called FUEL RETURN LINES TO TANK. the excess fuel from the IP flows thru them, if any is leaking they must be fixed. There is a kit to replace them, Dipaco is the best kit, although there is many more available. There is many threads/posts on how to replace them.

If you have a Square air filter box, that would be for a Banks Turbo.

Is the truck a Manual or an Automatic tranny? If it's an Automatic, you would have a C6 tranny and a thing attached to the IP that looks like the pic below called a VRV (Vacuum Regulator Valve). Put all the truck info in your signature and check the box to leave it there.

My 92 looks the same as your 88, not much difference in them up to 94.

You can copy any or all the Pics.

The return fuel line pic can be different from what you have on an 88, the IP to #1 could be IP to #2 or a steel line going to the rear.
 
#49 · (Edited)
The rubber hose lines between the injectors is called FUEL RETURN LINES TO TANK. the excess fuel from the IP flows thru them, if any is leaking they must be fixed. There is a kit to replace them, Dipaco is the best kit, although there is many more available. There is many threads/posts on how to replace them.

The return fuel line pic can be different from what you have on an 88, the IP to #1 could be IP to #2 or a steel line going to the rear.
Decided to fix the fuel leak. It's leaking about a drop of fuel per second while running and a little after shutting off.

I'm going to look for the threads/posts you suggested before starting a new one. If you know the best threads, please link here.
Here is a picture of the ones leaking. Going to wait until the cooler time of day to pull the air cleaner off and get a better look. According to your schematic I think it's only #4, 6, and 8 that's leaking. You can see the fuel glistening in the picture.
 

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#8 · (Edited)
It is a manual transmission. Round cylinder air filter.
That is helpful information. Thank You

I'm going to take a break from this over the weekend. I also just remembered my family has historically had bad luck with trucks on this holiday. Many breakdowns when going camping.

I will report back with pictures and info. Based on so far. What do you think my 88' is worth? It has 83,000 miles on it.

My next immediate project is getting my dad's 1968 F350 Ford Ranger running and moved to a safer location. It has been sitting even longer without being started. The 68' has many memories. My dad built it out of a 71 and 68 combining them. I should probably start a new thread on that one but I'll include a picture of the engine I took yesterday.

Happy Memorial Day!
 

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#9 ·
This diagram might help you ID more of the '88's details, and fill out your profile/signature/location:

 
#10 · (Edited)
Drove it around the block a few times today and ran out of gas. I had switched the fuel tank switch on the dash board. Only took two tries before it started back up once I switched the fuel switch back to the other tank. I guess I know not to trust the gauge for one tank at least.

I also had a hard time getting into reverse today (or even first gear). I didn't the other day. The gears grind when trying to get it into reverse. :/

Batteries are still super weak and have to jump it after two tries. I found my 1amp 12v battery charger. Going to charge them up each for at least 36 hours.

Attaching some pictures of the door tag, engine, and this tekonsha thing mounted on the dashboard that I am assuming was used for a trailer break? Sorry the door tag picture isn't that good. It's really faded.

I got an offer today from someone wanting to buy it for $1,200.
 

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#12 ·
That's to cheap of an offer, with a turbo at least $2500, Cali truck, shouldn't be much if any rust.
 
#13 · (Edited)
No known maintenance records. I think it may have only had two owners.

Just did some poking around online, craigslist and whatnot. My guess so far is 2500 to 4000.

Nevada Truck so even less rust :)

The money I get can help me maintain the 68' F350 I also just inherited and grew up with after my dad built it from parts. I got it (the 68') started up today. Was a good feeling. It had been parked so long that the tires melted tread tracks into the asphalt of the street. Looks like my dad left it parked when the odometer hit 30,000 miles exactly.
 
#15 ·
For your information. Those fenders are PLASTIC, always have been no matter what year on the duallies. Replacement is around $350. Ask me how I know.
 
#17 · (Edited)
rotted fuel pick up hose

> I know not to trust the gauge

Not sure if this has been said, but this is common. A rubber connecting hose in the fuel tank falls apart so when fuel level gets below that point you can't pick it up. IF you replace it, but the highest quality diesel hose you can find to replace it with. Others here can suggest the exact brand of hose I believe.

True story:
My bud and I used to either go flying in his Cessna or go riding my dirt bikes. We were heading up a LONG grade in my '90 F250, 7.3L idi manual 5-spd with a load of bikes. Same thing happened, sucked air, engine wind-milling, slowing down, switch tanks, I left it in gear, clutch still engaged to spin the engine and suck up some fuel. The pilot buddy squirms in his seat, gets really nervous, says "Aren't you going to turn around while you still have some air speed?"

The fan on aircraft keeps the pilot cool. When the fan stops you should see how quickly the pilot over-heats.
 
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#18 · (Edited)
A little on the tail gate shown in that picture and where the ladder rubs the cab, not the fenders. I was mostly just commenting that NV has less rust than CA.
 
#20 ·
After telling me that I could leave the truck parked in the parking lot for the next couple months, they threatened to tow it again by tagging it. So I went down at 1am tonight to drive it back to where I live. I wanted to drive it when no traffic was on the road cause I didn't know what to expect driving over the mountain with the breaks not working that great.

I got it to town and the clutch really doesn't want to work now. It took me forever to get it in gear at the stop sign. If I try starting it in gear it moves forward. Either the clutch needs adjustment or is going out. I don't know what it's like when a clutch goes out. I'm almost regretting not selling it to that one guy for 1200 because there are so many small things to fix that I'm not sure i have time to figure out. Tail lights aren't working. Right turn signal doesn't work. dash lights aren't working. Breaks, Clutch. I'm sure someone could get this thing running nice with a little maintenance though.

First thing I gotta fix now is the clutch because I can't drive it now but at least it's along the street where I live and can keep an eye on it without worrying about the busybodies down there hassling me about it being parked and I can start it regularly to keep the batteries charged and fuel primed.

Thank you everyone for following my adventure on this. :)
 
#21 ·
Before you go to all of the work of pulling the transmission, check the pedal mount bracket under the dash board. Those things are notorious for wearing out to the point of doing exactly what you described. It could also be the slave, or master cylinders in the clutch system. It might not be near as bad as you think it is.
 
#23 ·
Just needed clutch (dot 3 break) fluid. The reservoir was empty so who knows how low it got. Shifts much better. Still doesn't go into reverse very well but will improve perhaps as air bubbles get worked out of the system.

I watched some videos about how to fix the turn signal switch. Looks like an entire day project pulling apart the dash and entire steering column. That will be a low priority project.

Next is to check fuses and bulbs to see if maybe that's why the tail lights don't work (break lights and all other lights do work).
 
#22 ·
#24 ·
Thanks for the schematics. I was looking up inside under the dash and crawling under neath and it's difficult to see and reach all the mechanisms.
 
#25 ·
blubs good, fuses good. Must be a broken wire somewhere that goes to just the tail lights.
 
#27 ·
Looks a little more complicated than that.



 
#28 ·
Looks a little more complicated than that.
Right, Rockcrawls, it's amazing how so many hour plus jobs take only minutes over the internet. After you pull the steering wheel, if I remember right, you have to remove each wire from the harness plug down under the dash so you can pull them up through the column as you remove the switch. You also have to take note where each wire went in the plug. Taping a length of baling wire or twine to the end of the wires is a must so you can then tape it to the new switch wires in order to fish them down through the column by pulling on the end of the twine at the bottom of the column. A word to the wise, DON'T by a T/S switch from Napa. They are made to sloppy specs and can't be installed so the wheel tab will cancel the switch from both directions.
 
#29 ·
IIRC, the tilt-column trucks require un-pinning the connector. That still doesn't mean you have to take apart the column, and it's still not all day.

Have we even established that the OP's truck has a tilt column? With a straight column, the connector should come right up through the column.
 
#31 ·
Yes tilt column.
 
#30 ·
My '89 was a tilt column. The turn sigal switch was right on top after the steering wheel came off. I don't recall if there was a plug on top or not.
 
#32 ·
No, the plug is down low about clutch/brake pedal height under the dash where it comes out of the column and you can't fish the wires up because the plug is too big to go through the column hole, that's why it has to come off. It's about a 2-3 hour job if I remember right. Takes a special tool to remove the wires from the plug but it can be done without it, just takes longer.
 
#33 ·
This photo album shows the turn/hazard switch being replaced in an '88 F tilt column (not in the original truck):



The connector is easy to depin with a common flat pocket screwdriver. Buying a special tool for it won't make it any faster, but a sharp awl is good to scratch the wire colors into the connector shell BEFORE you start.

Even stopping to take lots of pics, it shouldn't take an hour. You'll probably want to remove the knee bolster (the big flat panel below the column) and certainly the plastic column shroud (1 phillips screw on the bottom center of the column). But it's not necessary to remove the dash registers as that video shows. Remove the steering wheel horn pad & nut, and make a mark with a colored marker (sharpie or paint pen) from the shaft splines to the wheel, for alignment later.

The steering wheel CAN be removed without a special tool by spinning the nut until it BARELY protrudes past the end of the shaft, hooking your knees behind the wheel, pressing your toes HARD against the floor, and carefully WHACKING the face of the nut with a BP hammer. Just be sure that the hammer only strikes the nut SQUARELY. If it hits at an angle, it'll crimp the nut & could damage the threads. If your hammer won't hit square, use a short (but large) drift. A smaller BP hammer usually works well. After a few good hits, the wheel will pop back against the nut, and both will come off the shaft easily.
 
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