Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Step #1 is correct. Step #2, you'll see very little fuel from the injector lines at idle, but opening them provides a low pressure path for air to purge, instead of being forced into the injectors. I usually crack two lines, one on each bank, if it doesn't start while purging the fuel filter per step #1. Once it starts, I tighten the lines with the engine running. It should start at idle, there's no need to open the throttle.
A word of caution... These diesels require a lot of torque to crank, and it's easy to burn up a starter. Crank for 15 seconds max per cycle, and allow a couple of minutes between cycles for the windings to cool off. If you have to crank it more than a half-dozen times, or if you smell electrical smoke, stop, put the batteries back on charge, and do something else for an hour or two.
If your truck had difficulty starting cold before you got air in the lines, it will be even more difficult now. Also, leaving the key in the ON position for extended periods with the engine stopped can burn out the glow plugs. If you suspect the GPs aren't all up to snuff, using the block heater can help, even in warm weather. And it can't hurt at all.
'89 F250 2WD XLT Lariat Supercab,
7.3 IDI, C6, 10.25" 3:55, dump bed.
Mods: Gear Vendors overdrive, ATS 085/088
"Frankenturbo", boost and EGT gauges in pod,
K&N air filter, cold air intake, filter minder, rear
work lights, 'monback beeper, pintle+ball hitch,
brake controller, CB.
Wish list: 130 amp G3 alternator, front hitch,
new hood, fresh paint.
Last edited by standbypowerguy; 10-05-2010 at 08:13 AM.