1989 Ford F250 with 7.3 diesel 5 Speed - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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Old 06-30-2012, 06:08 PM   #1 (permalink)
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1989 Ford F250 with 7.3 diesel 5 Speed

This truck is original with VCs that have 7.3 shown on them. It has 5speed manual trans and is 4x4. This is all I know. I have no idea what IDI means. I assume it has something to do with not being a Turbo or maybe the manufacturer. Truck has been sitting for 6 years but I did get it running.

All I did so far was drain the old fuel and replaced with new. It took awhile to get it started but now actually runs fairly strong. Before I get it registered I want to make sure it is real solid starting up. I left the key on, not being familiar with the lever required to be engaged to fully turn off and remove the key, so I ran down the batteries. When I tried to restart it did not want to start. I removed the air cleaned and put a gasoline soaked rag over the intake screen and it started. This was also necessary when I first started it.

Would this be because the batteries are not properly operating the injection pump or a something else?

What batteries should I get to make sure it has good batteries?
When it starts it blows a LOT of exhaust - more than I like. Can this be from using the gasoline as a starting fluid? Any ideas?
Can this motor take an after market turbo?
Needs an oil change - what brand do you recommend - I am in California where it gets to 100 degrees in the summer and gets cold and sometimes snow in the winter and also a lot of rain.
The motor is very dirty plus a lot of leaves and debris etc. What can I use to clean the motor without damaging hoses, wires etc or get water where it should not go?

I would appreciate your advice and be happy to know the good and bad of this 7.3 motor.

Thanks,
Silvercat
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Old 06-30-2012, 06:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Some about our motor: International Harvester IDI - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

IDI means indirect injection, you can look it up on wikipedia but in practical terms it means higher RPMs and less output than the direct injection (DI) engines of the same size. A turbo'd IDI has about the same power as a '95 powerstroke, but you can chip the 'stroke and go faster. IDIs are cheaper than DIs as a rule.

You will not be able to start any vehicle but diesels in particular if the batteries are very low. The diesel needs to run the glow plugs and then it has to run a big starter against a lot of compression (21.5:1 when rings are sealing)

There are numerous aftermarket turbochargers that will fit. All IDIs used in Fords have all the same external characteristics except that the oil sender port is a different size on some motors. That means that any year turbo will fit any year truck. ATS made three kits, the 085 I think, 088, and 093. 093 is wastegated and also what they used on the ford factory turbos, but they have an inferior turbine housing and down pipe. Banks and Hypermax also have made multiple kits to fit the IDI and still sell them.

I think most forum members run Delo 400 or Rotella T. I run Delo. In California you can run 20W50, in colder climes 15W40 or even lighter oils.

Engines are often steam-cleaned. Water runs to the back of the motor if you pour it on the valley pan. There's a ton of nooks and crannies on top of the motor that will hold water. I've pressure-washed my engine carefully a number of times with no drawbacks, but you do have to be careful not to get carried away. There's always foaming engine brite. Just don't get water into the intake, et cetera, and don't ever spray any hoses or lines with high pressure.
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1992 F250 XLT 4x4 Super Cab 7.3 IDI E40D 3.55 ATS 088 4"R.C 360k
1982 MBZ 300SD W126 California model w/Sunroof, no EGR
1997 Audi A8 Quattro 225k Warm/Cold packages
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Old 07-01-2012, 03:25 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I would replace the fuel filter and fill it with a good injector cleaner that's approved for diesel like sea foam I would start the motor let it get to temp idling turn it off replace the file filter filled with seafoam and fire her back up and watch the smoke show after it clears it should have cleand up the injectors and decarbonized the combustion chambers and exhaust manifolds pretty good for something that you pour in also don't skimp out on fuel filter make sure its a true water fuel separator its worth it
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1990 f250 4x4 e4od 7.3l idi
Turbo ip turned down tq screw
315/75r16
3in lift
K&n air filter and home made ram air
5in stack straight pipes
165,xxx mi (I think/hope)
Large tranny cooler
16-18mpg
Soon to be turbo'd with nice cold air and wraped exhauste be for turbo
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Old 07-01-2012, 06:45 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Don't fill the filter with Seafoam, it's not the "approved" injector cleaner in diesel shops. You've got a new (to you) vehicle that has an iffy starting condition and you want all you can going in your favor. Fill the filter with what the engine is designed to run on, clean diesel fuel. Your asking a lot of good questions but some can only be answered with any kind of accuracy by leaning over the fender, hard to answer by guessing from a monitor. Like said, steam or pressure washing is fine, a good idea is always cover the alternator with a plastic bag or whatever.
Owner's/shop manual calls for 15W40 when outside temps run from zero to 100+ which is what most all diesels use even when winter temps go 10-20 below at times.
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Old 07-01-2012, 05:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the advice. Sounds like new batteries, new fuel filter (did not change that and likely is bad from sitting 6 years) with clean fuel, a good careful steam cleaning or power wash and new oil and filter. I can feel it running better already. Thanks again
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Old 07-02-2012, 11:47 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LMJD View Post
Don't fill the filter with Seafoam, it's not the "approved" injector cleaner in diesel shops. You've got a new (to you) vehicle that has an iffy starting condition and you want all you can going in your favor. Fill the filter with what the engine is designed to run on, clean diesel fuel. Your asking a lot of good questions but some can only be answered with any kind of accuracy by leaning over the fender, hard to answer by guessing from a monitor. Like said, steam or pressure washing is fine, a good idea is always cover the alternator with a plastic bag or whatever.
Owner's/shop manual calls for 15W40 when outside temps run from zero to 100+ which is what most all diesels use even when winter temps go 10-20 below at times.
What's not approved on sea foam as a injector cleaner it does say its a lubricant. I'm asking this not trying to defend it iv had no problems doing this personally was I just lucky? Please inform me
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1990 f250 4x4 e4od 7.3l idi
Turbo ip turned down tq screw
315/75r16
3in lift
K&n air filter and home made ram air
5in stack straight pipes
165,xxx mi (I think/hope)
Large tranny cooler
16-18mpg
Soon to be turbo'd with nice cold air and wraped exhauste be for turbo
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Old 07-02-2012, 11:54 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustyshackleford View Post
What's not approved on sea foam as a injector cleaner it does say its a lubricant. I'm asking this not trying to defend it iv had no problems doing this personally was I just lucky? Please inform me
It's not approved by Stanadyne, which means that if the thing dies when it's still full of Seafoam and you try to take your pump back for warranty work they may well tell you where to go and what to do when you get there.

I also disagree with the statement that it is a lubricant. I looked up the MSDS for SeaFoam and compared the lubricity of its components with that of #2 diesel fuel and found that #2 diesel fuel has more lubricity than it does even on paper! It does have more lubricity than gasoline, but that's irrelevant here.
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1992 F250 XLT 4x4 Super Cab 7.3 IDI E40D 3.55 ATS 088 4"R.C 360k
1982 MBZ 300SD W126 California model w/Sunroof, no EGR
1997 Audi A8 Quattro 225k Warm/Cold packages
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Old 07-02-2012, 06:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Ok that makes complete sense it does not contain enough lube for our pumps so what about mixing it with diesel fuel? And is there a cleaner that works just as good like diesel fuel catalyst from red line I would like something that is very strong that I could run the motor I don't believe in the pour in your tank injector cleaners I think something like dps will maintain injectors but not clean them once they get goober up
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1990 f250 4x4 e4od 7.3l idi
Turbo ip turned down tq screw
315/75r16
3in lift
K&n air filter and home made ram air
5in stack straight pipes
165,xxx mi (I think/hope)
Large tranny cooler
16-18mpg
Soon to be turbo'd with nice cold air and wraped exhauste be for turbo
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Old 07-04-2012, 01:05 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Oil Filter

Hey guys, I went to the parts store and got a new air filter and Rotella 15/40 oil but I did not buy an oil filter. What brand oil filter is best? Should I get something from Ford or is Fram or Wix etc ok? Also what batteries are recommended. I can deal with fixing things while I am able to drive the truck but I want to make sure it starts every time without issues. Thanks
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Old 07-04-2012, 02:00 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Best filter, Motorcraft FL1995 available at Wal-Mart or a Ford Dealer. That is the filter for powerstroke, adds 1qt. capacity to the IDI system.

No batteries are officially recommended but I bought them from wally world because they were BY FAR the cheapest option, with the best warranty. In fact, Napa wants $20 more for batteries with less capacity and less warranty, O'Reilly's has batteries with the same capacity but they want way more for them. I hate to shop there since Sam died and it all went to heck but... gotta eat
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1992 F250 XLT 4x4 Super Cab 7.3 IDI E40D 3.55 ATS 088 4"R.C 360k
1982 MBZ 300SD W126 California model w/Sunroof, no EGR
1997 Audi A8 Quattro 225k Warm/Cold packages
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Old 07-04-2012, 02:01 PM   #11 (permalink)
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As for cleaner, there's actually a Stanadyne-branded cleaner...
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1992 F250 XLT 4x4 Super Cab 7.3 IDI E40D 3.55 ATS 088 4"R.C 360k
1982 MBZ 300SD W126 California model w/Sunroof, no EGR
1997 Audi A8 Quattro 225k Warm/Cold packages
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Old 07-04-2012, 02:43 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Hello drinkypoo, couple questions but first a bit of history. I acquired the 89 from my cousin located in Upper Lake but I am from San Jose. He was bought out by the county as his property is on the old part of the lake and now I guess they want to fill it over with the lake. He needed to move so I arranged to get a few vehicles off the property for him. So I had Mike from Kelseyville Auto Salvage pick them up including the 89 but then I decided to keep it. A Mexican speaking friend of KAS came over and got it started for me. The truck has been sitting since about 05 due to a suspected electrical issue as I was told where the engine would just stop running. Sounds like they jumped thru some hoops to find the problem but no success. I drove it from Kelseyville to Middletown and it ran real strong with no problem. The Mexican guy, I think Federico, may have changed something relating to the ignition or maybe something similar to a neutral safety switch on the lower steering column (does that sound like a possibility) and then it started up. Anyway, I need to go back and ask about that since I could not talk to Federico even though I had 3 years of Spanish in HS back in the mid 60s in Connecticut.

Batteries
I bought two batteries from Walmart which where 850s but the cables did not mate so I took them back to the Lower Lake store. Man that place is in a state of confusion. Anyway, they told me that they did not have a batteries specifically listed for the 89 F250 diesel. Which did you get?

Oil filter
I will check for the Stanadyne filter but my gut says get the Ford filter. Who is Stanadyne anyway? I think someone else in this thread mentioned that name regarding a turbo (I think).

Fuel filter
I am thinking I should change that too although it looked real clean. Does Stanadyne make that too?

Future Maintenance
Do you have any recommendations for a shop in the area as the truck will be in Middletown until I feel totally comfortable with it.

Thanks for the advice and any help with my questions
Silvercat/George



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As for cleaner, there's actually a Stanadyne-branded cleaner...
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Old 07-04-2012, 07:20 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I'm actually not sure where the neutral safety switch is, I don't remember seeing it on the column, though. There's a fuel shutoff solenoid which needs constant power while the key is on, and the ignition switch is a fairly common point of failure which I believe can prevent that, and can certainly prevent starting.

My batteries are MAXX-65Ns. I turned one around so that the hots are both towards the inside, but my cables are slightly nonstandard and I don't know if that normally works.

Stanadyne is the company that makes the injection pump, which is a DB-2.

Menzio's is a pretty good shop in Middletown but I don't know if they know anything about diesels.
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1992 F250 XLT 4x4 Super Cab 7.3 IDI E40D 3.55 ATS 088 4"R.C 360k
1982 MBZ 300SD W126 California model w/Sunroof, no EGR
1997 Audi A8 Quattro 225k Warm/Cold packages
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