hey guys, looking at my first IDI and i thought maybe ya'll could help me to diagnose the one glaring problem it has. I went to look at it today, and the guy told me it probably wouldnt start, it is about 45-50 degrees here today. Anyway, he had it plugged in, but it still wouldnt start, he sprayed a little starting fluid in and she took off, kind of rough, like my 'stroke with only 4 GP's, ran rough for a little while then sounded/ran great once it was warm. My question is this, i realize there could be a lot of different things causing this, but the guy i would be buying it from thinks it is a fuel issue, he put a new filter on, and fuel is getting to the filter, but he doenst think it is getting to the injectors, on start up. Is this a legitimate diagnosis as it runs good once it is started? Or could it just be that maybe the block heater isnt actually working? The glow plug relay was clicking and i could watch the gauge as it was clicking. But with just a little bit of starting fluid it took right off and ran out real good once it got kinda warm. Any suggestions would be helpful, i am probably only gonna be paying about $800 for this pickup, so if i have to spend a little on it ok, but i am just hoping this will be a simple fix, any help would be apprectiated.
Thanks, Grizz
1996 F250 XLT 4x4 Ex. Cab Powerstroke. 218K and climbing, fast. Edge Evolution, K&N FIPK Gen. II intake, muffler/cat delete, gooseneck and reciever hitches, 2000 Sooper Dooty split bench seats, big weatherguard aluminum toolbox, rollin on BFGoodrich long trail t/as 285/75's, Cobra Harley Davidson Edition 25LTD, Western 7.5ft uni-mount plow with wings.
Replaced (by me) as of 10/4/08(took ownership 2/05, 149K) 3 CPS, 1 water pump, 1 alternator, front brakes, 3 sets of tires, 2 batteries, 2 starters, 1 GPR, front brakes (x2) front rotors, 2 power window switches in drivers door (passenger side needs it, just ain't done it.) Needing glow plugs badly, maybe injectors?
1989 F-SuperDuty XLT Lariat 7.3 IDI auto, 12' dump bed, 155K, 8' hiniker V-box salt spreader.
If it ran after you started it, I would think that the IP and injectors were in reasonable condition.
If you in fact used starting fluid ( ether ) and you didn't get blown up ( ether on a hot GP is very dangerous because it will explode with the intake valves open ), I'd say you had a GP problem or possible a IP timimg issue.
That's my vote. I'd guess the GP's are not working at all. I looked at a truck one time.... had two empty cans of ether on the front seat... that was all I had to see... but for $800, it's almost gotta be worth that!
Ok, that is 3 votes for GP's now. I talked to a friend of my cousin's who works on all kinds of trucks, equipment, tractors and everything else around here and he said GP's as well. I hope all you guys are right, just gotta get a little more change rounded up and i will have the older brother of my Powerstroke sittin in the yard.
1996 F250 XLT 4x4 Ex. Cab Powerstroke. 218K and climbing, fast. Edge Evolution, K&N FIPK Gen. II intake, muffler/cat delete, gooseneck and reciever hitches, 2000 Sooper Dooty split bench seats, big weatherguard aluminum toolbox, rollin on BFGoodrich long trail t/as 285/75's, Cobra Harley Davidson Edition 25LTD, Western 7.5ft uni-mount plow with wings.
Replaced (by me) as of 10/4/08(took ownership 2/05, 149K) 3 CPS, 1 water pump, 1 alternator, front brakes, 3 sets of tires, 2 batteries, 2 starters, 1 GPR, front brakes (x2) front rotors, 2 power window switches in drivers door (passenger side needs it, just ain't done it.) Needing glow plugs badly, maybe injectors?
1989 F-SuperDuty XLT Lariat 7.3 IDI auto, 12' dump bed, 155K, 8' hiniker V-box salt spreader.
Check the GPs using a DVOM. GP resistance should be around 1 ohm cold and all 8 should be about the same. The fact that the ether didn't explode indicates the GPs were not heating or the controller isn't energizing them.
i have the same problem with the 7.3 i've recently aquired. once it's been running it runs great but it's a bear to get started. the ip has been rebuilt but i haven't tested the resistance of the gp's yet. what would i look for testing the controller?
also, how can i tell if the ip is off time without ripping the whole thing apart?
Make a deal with the owner. If you buy the new glow plugs and it fires right up, you still get the same price. Then go to Autozone and buy 8 new MOTORCRAFT glow plugs (about $9.00 each). Buy ONLY, that's ONLY MOTORCRAFT. Did I mention to buy ONLY MOTORCRAFT GLOW PLUGS???? What part of ONLY MOTORCRAFT is it that you don't understand [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]. CLICK ON THIS LINK and read the whole article. Be sure to click on his link "check this out". If the truck you're interested in already has AUTOLITE glow plugs, you might have a BIG PROBLEM if you buy it. The Autolites might come out easily(stress MIGHT), but I'd bet that they are all already burnt out. A lot of people will put in Autolites and a week later when they burn out, will think that there is some other kind of problem since they just spent $90.00 on new Autolite GPs. Did I mention to buy ONLY MOTORCRAFT GLOW PLUGS [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img]? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]OkieGringo
testing the controller would start with just testing the GPR. Does it get energized and does the voltage make it thru to the output stud with very little loss of voltage. The voltage on the input side should be within .1 to.2 volts of what goes to the GPs.
depending on the temperature, the controller should turn on the WTS lamp for up to 12 seconds and cycle the GPs long enough to let them heat up. You can check the cycle time by listening to the GPR, or better yet, put a test light on the GPR output stud.
The only way to make sure the timing is correct it to have it timed. There may be timing marks on the front of the IP at about 12 o'clock that may give you an indication if it is close or not. Timing between 8 and 10 degrees BTDC give best performance, fuel economy and starting.
Look on Ebay.... Two bidders are bidding on autolite glowplugs!!! Thats one bid I wouldn't want to win for anything. I have seen others in a bidding war for champion glowplugs too. Some may just never get it.
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89 7.3 crewcab w/ Banks Sidewinder Wastegated Turbo. 4 inch straight piped. BTS E4OD trans with 2 extra gallons of ATF in a Mag Hy-Tec pan. Gear Vendors. Rodney Red custom aluminum radiator. Moose Pump with "G' injectors. Motor rebuilt with new after market ported heads. Mahle low comp pistons milled 12 thousands. Balanced to 1/4 to 1/3 gram. Lined bored. Block decked and sleeved on all 8. Shimed oil pump for higher pressure. Intake and exhaust logs ported too. Hypermax in shop waiting to be installed later....
[ QUOTE ]
Look on Ebay.... Two bidders are bidding on autolite glowplugs!!! Thats one bid I wouldn't want to win for anything. I have seen others in a bidding war for champion glowplugs too. Some may just never get it.
[/ QUOTE ]
When I was bidding on my MOTORCRAFT plugs I seen one person bidding on autolites. I then sent the bidder a good luck message [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
__________________ 1991 Ford PL Custom Ambulance Type III 7.3L Diesel. Photo Here Pioneer AM/FM/XM/CD Stereo. Code 3 lightbar, Whelen Strobes and flasher lights. Whelen flood lights on front, rear and sides. There bright enough to turn darkness into daylight. Siren with several tones plus electronic airhorn and PA. Custom 3" exhaust from manifolds back with a Gibson Superflow Muffler [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]. Dual alternators and dual sets of batteries. If I need a jumpstart all I do is push a button. On spot tire chains that install and de-install themselves at the flip of a switch. Also has air compressor on board along with suction unit and O2 system.
1972 Cadillac Hightop Ambulance by Superior Lucky if I get 10MPG
Grizz,
You can use Don's advise on the ohm's as that's the official test.... I've always just used the continuity test - if there's not a complete cicuit from the contact tip of the plug, to the base of the plug (where the threads are), then the plug is bad.
It sounds like there are for sure 2 burned out, maybe more. With only one out, it should have started. The other possibility is the relay. As I recall, you can just check the voltage across the 2 big terminals, when the WTS light is on - there should be no voltage drop across them.
thanks guys, i think i will go ahead and shell out the $800 for the old beast and start replacing glow plugs, since that seems to be the consensus here.
thanks again, Grizz
1996 F250 XLT 4x4 Ex. Cab Powerstroke. 218K and climbing, fast. Edge Evolution, K&N FIPK Gen. II intake, muffler/cat delete, gooseneck and reciever hitches, 2000 Sooper Dooty split bench seats, big weatherguard aluminum toolbox, rollin on BFGoodrich long trail t/as 285/75's, Cobra Harley Davidson Edition 25LTD, Western 7.5ft uni-mount plow with wings.
Replaced (by me) as of 10/4/08(took ownership 2/05, 149K) 3 CPS, 1 water pump, 1 alternator, front brakes, 3 sets of tires, 2 batteries, 2 starters, 1 GPR, front brakes (x2) front rotors, 2 power window switches in drivers door (passenger side needs it, just ain't done it.) Needing glow plugs badly, maybe injectors?
1989 F-SuperDuty XLT Lariat 7.3 IDI auto, 12' dump bed, 155K, 8' hiniker V-box salt spreader.
When I bought my 92, it wouldn't hardly start at all. Everything seemed to be ok, wts light coming on etc. What I found was that someone had replace the starter, and the solenoid had sifferent size bolts on it, so they put the hot wire from the solenoid to the GP controller on the deenergized side, so the only time there was power applied was whe you were actually cranking. Reamed the hole bigger in the connector and moved it to the other side of the solenoid and it worked great. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
__________________
1992 single cab, 2 wheel drive, rough body, no rust - just dents. "Ol Blue" New lift pump and IP, aftermarket ATS turbo, new water pump, GPs
and batteries.
One more thing i just thought about on this truck from when we tried to start it. The WTS bulb (no cover over this stuff on this truck, int. is pretty rough) Only came on for just a little bit, and the relay continued to work. For this truck not having been started for a week, i would think that the light should stay on a lot longer than the probably 3-5 sec it was on. I just now remembered this, maybe this will make the problem a little more obvious?
Thanks, Grizz
1996 F250 XLT 4x4 Ex. Cab Powerstroke. 218K and climbing, fast. Edge Evolution, K&N FIPK Gen. II intake, muffler/cat delete, gooseneck and reciever hitches, 2000 Sooper Dooty split bench seats, big weatherguard aluminum toolbox, rollin on BFGoodrich long trail t/as 285/75's, Cobra Harley Davidson Edition 25LTD, Western 7.5ft uni-mount plow with wings.
Replaced (by me) as of 10/4/08(took ownership 2/05, 149K) 3 CPS, 1 water pump, 1 alternator, front brakes, 3 sets of tires, 2 batteries, 2 starters, 1 GPR, front brakes (x2) front rotors, 2 power window switches in drivers door (passenger side needs it, just ain't done it.) Needing glow plugs badly, maybe injectors?
1989 F-SuperDuty XLT Lariat 7.3 IDI auto, 12' dump bed, 155K, 8' hiniker V-box salt spreader.
I just got caught by the glow plug problem today.
The truck has been hard to start for a few weeks now but today I went to Home Depot and when I came out my 94 F350 IDI wouldn't start. Thought the batteries just weren't strong enough (even though I put 2 new ones in last week) so I had a fellow f350 in the lot try to jump me to no avail, it just wouldn't catch. Talking with the other owner we both came to the conclusion that it was probably the glowplugs. Unfortunately it was between Autolite plugs at Advance Auto or Champions at the local NAPA. I went with the champions which are only marginally better than the Autolites from what I 've read here.
In about 45 minutes I had 7 out of 8 changed (coulddn't get to #2 on the drivers side), jumped into the truck and it fired right up. Amazing what a little heat will do for starting in the cold!
Linear Mode
