Hey - I'm trying to remove the rear brake drum on my 1993 f250. I've backed off the adjuster and it still won't budge. The local library doesn't have a manual for the truck. but a friend told me the axle has to come out. I thought that was only on older models. Shouldn't the drum come off? What am I missing. Thanks. Larry
Hey - I'm trying to remove the rear brake drum on my 1993 f250. I've backed off the adjuster and it still won't budge. The local library doesn't have a manual for the truck. but a friend told me the axle has to come out. I thought that was only on older models. Shouldn't the drum come off? What am I missing. Thanks. Larry
The drum is probably rusted to the hub along with the wheel studs. Get some liquid wrench and spray the area and hit the drum with a hammer wail a while and then repeat. If you have the shoes backed off enough sooner or later it should come off, and you do not have to remove the axle.
Jim
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96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages,Dark Toumaline, add a leaf,Dale's TYMAR,and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter with coolant eye
Just a heads-up - dunno why you're removing the drums, but if tis for wheel cylinder replacement and you plan on reusing the drums after all that beating you may end up with a warped drum and nicely pulsating brakes - guess how I know. If you're replacing the drums, disregard all that.
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'90 F350 XLT Lariat, reg cab, dually, 4.10s, factory tow package w/ P3 controller, single 3" stack w/ clapper, wood stakes & rails
Just a heads-up - dunno why you're removing the drums, but if tis for wheel cylinder replacement and you plan on reusing the drums after all that beating you may end up with a warped drum and nicely pulsating brakes - guess how I know. If you're replacing the drums, disregard all that.
Yeah - I Kinda figured that - which is why I was a bit gentle to start with. It is to replace a bad wheel cylinder, but it is what is I guess. I'm not going to sweat it. It had to come off. And, now I can move forward. Thanks again.
got a air chisel????? if so, get the blunt end adaptor tip--and beat the snot out of the area between the studs---breaks all the rust loose--and drums come right off--older man showed me this--never has failed yet. and please wear ear protection!!!!
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94 f250 idi turbo sc e4od alum fac rims 149,289 --dana 60 frt with posi--10.25 rear w/posi--shouldnt get stuck!! ats turbo 3" parts on--what a diff from stock turbo!!!!!--- also 96 F250 with 305,000 is fixed!!-- 7.3 rattler-also 85 6.9-needs new engine!! tired!!
ya e brake is not good to be on
had it parked and the person didnt know we were doing a brake job
after wards it slid right off
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, 3:73 dana 80 rear, srw, dana 50 front, heavy duty leaf springs, back up camera, 20$ wallyworld fog lamps, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, 32" steering tires all around, ac power converter,jeep bucket seats, deezee runningboards (cab only),cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, 2 trucklight worklights on front stake pocket each side,high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, 6600 lbs with all my junk
i plan to add propane kit, stake body bed, gn hitch,western style mirrors, and a lot more
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1997 F350 4door 2wd long bed white 7.3L Powerstroke, E4OD, C5 4:10LS diff 326K miles on org engine and been rebuilt again
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