1994 Ford F250 Injector Replacement 7.3l IDL Diesel - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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Old 03-26-2011, 07:13 AM   #1 (permalink)
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1994 Ford F250 Injector Replacement 7.3l IDL Diesel

I am going to replace the injectors on my 1994 Ford F250 7.3l IDL Diesel.

This in the first time I have ever done this, so:

1. Any tips from the Pros?
2. Do I really need a Ford Fuel line wrench or will a flair wrench work?
3. The manual talks of a Injector seat cleaning tool and copper oring remover, need them or ?
4. Manual says you need an expensive timing meter to time the engine. Do I need one or is there an alternative or have a dealer time it.

As always, a big "Thank you in advance" to all the great folks on this fantastic forum.
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Old 03-26-2011, 09:16 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Here is my standard blurb....

Injectors are easy, remove the line cap nuts, gently move the line away sufficient to remove the return lines/caps as a set per side, then using a 1" socket "DO NOT BEND STEEL LINES" unscrew the injector(s). Remove the copper seal if left in the base of the bore.

If major amounts of carbon are found or difficulty in removal of inj or gp place the cylinder at TDC. Clean the inj bore but do not dump carbon into the cylinders, remove the GPs and use a vacuum to clean/suck debris out through either hole.

Send injectors out for pressure testing at a local shop or just buy new ones, also get a return line kit which consists of hose, clamps, orings, copper seals and new injector caps from one of several advertisers here.

Installation is reverse, "DO NOT DAMAGE THE NOZZLE TIPS" you can put the "new kit orings" on the injectors but they come with some on already. To replace useing vaseline or??, roll the first oring into first groove, roll second over it to lower groove trying not to cut them. Put the new copper seal on injector tip, I hold it in place with antisieze, antisieze the body slightly and do the threads, torque to 35lbs, book says twice?. Install the new caps and line "sets" made up "by you" identical to removed sets, use more vaseline inside caps, press down on cap (tops) until they seat into place. Connect the line caps torque is 22 ftlbs.

Now would of course be a good time to replace the IP too as your 75% there.

If you do not replace the IP starting should be no problem as fuel is at the end of the lines already and several cranks will fill injectors.

If you will replace IP, I would replace the fuel filter a few days prior. The driving would allow the system to have removed all air from that change before introducing more with the pump change and line removal.
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Old 03-26-2011, 09:24 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Old 03-26-2011, 09:31 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Dont use vaseline, it will eat the o rings and shorten their life span
Wrong. Don't believe everything you read on internet forums.
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Old 03-26-2011, 09:35 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by LMJD View Post
Wrong. Don't believe everything you read on internet forums.


I have used it MANY times to install "O" rings and seals. NEVER had a problem yet!!!
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Old 03-26-2011, 09:53 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I have used it MANY times to install "O" rings and seals. NEVER had a problem yet!!!
according to Zero Start, you do not want to use it. When I installed my new block heater it said several time to not use vaseline? What gives? I used the **** anyway because it takes years for the vasline to brake down the rubber.
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Old 03-26-2011, 10:01 AM   #7 (permalink)
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have used it MANY times to install "O" rings and seals. NEVER had a problem yet!!!
Yep, Detroit Diesel recommends it in their shop manuals for retaining engine gaskets, O-rings in their engines and Allison transmissions because it dissapates into nothing in the trans and engine oils.
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