1994 IDI Turbo hard to start cold

[LunaTech]

I have a 94' F350 with the 7.3 IDI turbo. It's very hard to start on colder mornings. This morning was in the low 50's and she almost didn't start. From what I've read here, it sounds like my GP's cause after she's warm it fires' right up right now and even started MUCH quicker when the temps. at night weren't so cold. MY REAL QUESTION IS: is there something I can use to "help" get her started on these mornings, like WD-40 (read here somewhere it's better than the dreaded ether). I know nothing is probably "good", but this is my daily driver cause I have my "spare" car loaned out to a friend who is having trouble with his F350 (have to help a brother out ya know) and I HAVE to drive mine until I get the car back and change GP's. Any help here would be great. Thanks everyone.

Jeff

[chuckster57]

Does it have a block heater? if so just plug it in for a few hrs. or leave it plugged in over night.

[JASTECH]

I agree with chuckster, I plug mine in and Varoooom! it starts up just fine :-)

[cdnsarguy]

Agree with Block heater......... but how long does the Wait to start light stay on.

[LunaTech]

WTS light stays on for approx. 5 to 8 seconds and then starts cycling. The block heater doesn't really do me any good cause I work 12 hr night shift and have no where to plug it in. Also I keep it parked in the basement (apporx. 65-70 F) at home and after letting it set all day or night (depending on if I'm working or not), it starts fine. A little slow on the first start of the day, but starts fine.

Jeff

[LunaTech]

Anybody???

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by LunaTech

WTS light stays on for approx. 5 to 8 seconds and then starts cycling. The block heater doesn't really do me any good cause I work 12 hr night shift and have no where to plug it in. Also I keep it parked in the basement (apporx. 65-70 F) at home and after letting it set all day or night (depending on if I'm working or not), it starts fine. A little slow on the first start of the day, but starts fine.

Jeff

I just went out and "timed" my WTS light. Truck hasn't been ran in a few days...9 seconds. I have a set of Wellmans about 2 months old. If you are getting 5 seconds then the GP's might not be warming up all the way. I would do the following test:

Two problems that occur with the solid state ( 1987 to 1994 IDI engines ) GP systems. If a GP burns out ( circuit resistance goes up ), the controller cycles the GPs at a faster rate which doesn't let them get to max operating temp. If 2 or more GPs fail, the controller may not cycle the GPs at all ( very rapid or no clicking heard ). When you check the GPs, use an ohmmeter. A high resistance ( not necessarily burned out ) GP can cause circuit resistance to go up and the controller will then cycle the GPs too fast. You probably will not find this problem with a test light. Resistance spec for GPs = .5 to 1 ohm cold. Second problem. A poor controller ground ( black wire attached to valve cover stud ) will cause the controller to leave the GPs on longer, often damaging or failing them. If you are having mulitple GP failures, I would check closely the controller ground. Now the confusing part. Bad ground --> longer GP on time ( slower cycling ). Burned out GPs --> faster cycling If you have both situations, it may appear that the controller is cycling the GPs at the proper rate. Bad ground slows it up while the burned GPs speed it up ---> normal cycling. The system acts/sounds like it's working normally, but you have a hard starting concern.
By........DieselDon

[LunaTech]

Thanks for the input. That ground is something I will look at when I change my GP's. The turbo IDI looks like it may be a PITA to check the resistance at some of the GP's, and I don't know how long this set has been in (at least 10k miles since I bought it) and the GP's I have checked are 2 to 2.5 ohms so I'm just going to change them anyway so I can start a history on them.

[cdnsarguy]

Make sure the GPs are cold ...... heat raises the ohm resistance.