$500 CDN for a new Ford radiator.... - Diesel Forum

cdnsarguy · 03-09-2005, 10:14 PM

And the damn thing lasts just less than a year......... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img]

However I thought due to the cold the leak was the upper hose or the overflow hose which was leaking slightly. No such luck the upper tank soldering has bubbles and it leaks right under the upper hose. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]

So off to Ford I go with a possible warranty claim. I knew I was close to the warranty period ending but not 8 days over..... Dealer service guy says Fords warranty is 12 months and NOT one day more sorry. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/vomit.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/vomit.gif[/img]

So I would advise any one with a Ford part with a warranty pull the paperwork and do a good inspection of the part(s) if possible for possible warranty claim before it runs out. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img]

soulpatchfr · 03-09-2005, 10:38 PM

jeez, pete! why do the best guys have the worst luck? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]
my OE rad is leaning against my garage wall... how 'bout i box it up & mail it north? we'll call it a St. Paddy's Day gift [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif[/img]

LandscapeMan · 03-09-2005, 10:50 PM

Pete,
That is just plain wrong. I can't believe they won't cover it.
Charlie

cdnsarguy · 03-09-2005, 11:10 PM

Frank
I have my old rad sitting in the box from the new one still. The only thing wrong with it was the fins between the cooling tubes were falling out due to road salt corrosion.

The really bad part is the rad guy I blew off last year is the one who said I would only get a year out of the new one........and he will be fixing it this time. Got any salt for the crow I have to eat.. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img]

LandscapeMan · 03-09-2005, 11:18 PM

[ QUOTE ]

The really bad part is the rad guy I blew off last year is the one who said I would only get a year out of the new one........and he will be fixing it this time. Got any salt for the crow I have to eat.. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img]

[/ QUOTE ]

Hmnn,
I am thinking that getting my old Rad repaired may heve been a good move. I just dropped it back in my truck today. I will find out tomorrow when I get it buttoned up.
Charlie

soulpatchfr · 03-10-2005, 12:54 AM

[ QUOTE ]
Got any salt for the crow I have to eat.. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img]

[/ QUOTE ]

been there, done that, got the indigestion. i find hot sauce & cold beer makes it go down easier [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

dieselman1992 · 03-10-2005, 06:44 AM

gotta love the ford dealer not only do they get you on the first purchase the get you on the warranty (or lack the of)

pnose · 03-10-2005, 07:50 AM

Pete,i had my rad recored 4 years ago at a cost of $300cdn and knock on wood,no problems with it yet.You may only need the top tank sweated off and re-soldered [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img].Good luck with it.

Weezer · 03-10-2005, 08:12 AM

Pete,
Sorry to hear your tale of woe, but thanks for the heads-up. I have the same deal going with corrosion of the cooling fins and NO leaks yet. I'm fixing to replace it soon and you've helped me narrow my search. We have a rad shop near home that also specializes in diesel injection. Gonna give them a look first. Good luck!

Keith

agnem · 03-10-2005, 08:57 AM

Pete, I called my Ford dealer (which appearantly must be the best Ford dealer in the world) and they told me that it is up to the dealer, and that for good customers, they would probably stretch the dates to make the claim work, or go halves with them, or do something in such an instance. 8 days is splitting hairs. 2 weeks would be a bit much, but 8 days....it's possible it took you that long to get it installed. You could call 800-392-3673 and see what they say. Remind them that I spend a lot of time here trying to tell people why they should pay the extra buck for Ford parts. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

vonTrapp · 03-10-2005, 10:17 AM

I'm going to sound like Mr Mickey Mouse here when I say this...

If the upper solder joint is leaking, and Ford absolutely will not cover it, why not just resolder it yourself? Years ago as a kid, I had to do this to 2 different radiators; both held fine for the remainder of the time I had the vehicles.

If my memory serves me right, the radiator needed to be drained completely (removed from engine if access was an issue), flushed to remove all coolant, and all paint removed from the area to be repaired. I used a propane torch / compressed air to heat the area surrounding the solder joint (in my case I heated the top area of the rad), so as to eliminate as much water as possible.

Once it was resonably dry in the repair area, it was simply a matter of using either a solder iron (not the weeny electric ones; the old BIG style that looked like a hatchet and were heated with a torch [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]) to fix the seam, or a torch/solder wire in combination. Using flux is a given to clean off the repair area.

Unless rad compositions have really changed in the last few years, this method should still work.

But if your "friend" is only charging a $100.00...then I'd reconsider the "pain in the butt" time factor and maybe just have him do it. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]

Just my 2 cents...

cdnsarguy · 03-10-2005, 06:50 PM

Well job is done.......boys at the shop let me use a bay and helped me with tools and muscle work. Had a local rad guy resolder it for $65 cdn. Ford called after I had it at the rad shop and said they would try a different route to help, so we will see what they can do. Apparently my rad is made by Modine which has been sold to SPI and is a less than top quality product now.???

We will see what happens.......

SMASHER89 · 03-11-2005, 03:18 PM

[ QUOTE ]
I'm going to sound like Mr Mickey Mouse here when I say this...

If the upper solder joint is leaking, and Ford absolutely will not cover it, why not just resolder it yourself?

[/ QUOTE ]

I resoldered the radiator filler neck on mine. Used the oxy/acetyl torch with a welding tip. Cleaned it, fluxed it and carefully heated it and dabbed in some rosin core. It was too easy.

I was going to try and braze it but people told me to just solder away. It would have been a trick to try to melt the rod and not the tank anyhow...

Speaking of... Id sell you a NICE 4-row for a couple hundy if you were a little closer [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

argve · 03-11-2005, 04:26 PM

Pete,

Sorry to hear that. But glad to hear you got it fixed. The soldering does work and last I have had a few soldered over the years would not think twice about it.

d9d · 03-16-2005, 04:18 AM

yah, agreed, fixing the tank seams is pretty easy and generally lasts forever.

Don't use rosin flux. Use acid flux. You do want the extra cleaning power... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

The trick to making this job go smoothly and to end up with a good seal is to CLEAN OUT the seam totally. I generally clean out 1-3". It's good if the tool used for cleanout has an end which scrapes the metal while you're pushing the old solder out of there. That provides a fresh clean metal surface.

Then use proper fluxing and soldering technique to refill the seam. Be sure you have full wetting along the bottom and sides before you fill it the rest of the way.

I've done it with both propane and oxy/acet. Both work fine.

For a top seam, you don't even need to pull it from the truck. Just drain the fluid down 6" from the top first.