7.3 to manual glow plug conversion - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com

7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-19-2011, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
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7.3 to manual glow plug conversion

Hey guys,
ive got an old 84 6.9 liter, and apparently these glow plug systems were notoriously bad about burning up. so the guy who had the truck for its whole life before me converted them to the 7.3 system to "fix it." well he did a good job with it, but after 200,000 miles it broke. so after hunting around and figuring out it was the 7.3 system, i found the gp controller that i need. when i figured out it was a $170 part i decided i would rather just convert it to manual pushbutton. what kinds of wires and fuses do i need? how do i go about this? do i bypass the relay on the gp controller? where is a good place to mount the switch in the cab? is there more than one way to do this, and if so, which one is best? ive been hotwiring the gp's under the hood every time i wanna start it for about three weeks... so any quick reply would be very appreciated! thanks guys!

1984 Red Regular Cab F-250, SRW, 235/85/R16E Cooper Discoverer AT3's, 280,XXX as of April 2014, 6.9 IDI, NA, 4x4 w/ manual locking hubs, T-19 4 speed, Regular Cab, Longbed, Dana 44 front and Dana 60 rear, 2nd Owner! no soup bowl, straight piped, (FREE) Pacific Dually towing mirrors, manual ZD-9 glow plugs, Toolbox, wishing I had a turbo and an overdrive...
Happy Motoring!
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-19-2011, 09:08 AM
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Autozone has gp controllers for $85. Mine seems ok so far.

1990 F250 Extended Cab 7.3 Non Turbo 280,000
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-19-2011, 09:16 AM
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Is your relay good? If not, you could pick up a Stancor 586-902. You would wire it such that one of the large terminals goes to your battery, the other large terminal goes to your glow plugs. One small terminal goes to key on positive. The other terminal goes through your manual pushbutton to ground.

You can get a Stancor relay for $50 - 586-902 Stancor General Purpose / Industrial Relays

Here's a link to Guzzle's modification page - granted this is for the later PSD's, but the concept is the same: Welcome to guzzle's Modifications Web Page

2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM

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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-19-2011, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
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85 is definitely better than 170, but as a poor high school kid who burn about 85 a week in gas sometimes, i cant afford that either. i know the relay is good, or at least i think it is, cause when i jump a wire from the white peg oin the relay to the battery, it clicks and engages, heats up the plugs till i can start it. so the relay isnt getting power which i figured was the rest of the controller not working. at this point im just looking to replace it all with a pushbutton system, so i know how it works, and know that theres not much to go wrong. its simpler, and i was hoping a lot cheaper, just dont know how to go about doing it...

1984 Red Regular Cab F-250, SRW, 235/85/R16E Cooper Discoverer AT3's, 280,XXX as of April 2014, 6.9 IDI, NA, 4x4 w/ manual locking hubs, T-19 4 speed, Regular Cab, Longbed, Dana 44 front and Dana 60 rear, 2nd Owner! no soup bowl, straight piped, (FREE) Pacific Dually towing mirrors, manual ZD-9 glow plugs, Toolbox, wishing I had a turbo and an overdrive...
Happy Motoring!
-Evan
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-20-2011, 10:15 AM
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Check out my GP info .........

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