88 Ford 7.3 IDI smokes - Diesel Forum

race24x · 10-28-2009, 01:35 PM

OK this is a long story so let me start from the beginning. I have a 88 Ford F450 with 7.3 IDI diesel. The motor was leaking AF into one cylinder. We bought a used motor and swapped them out. From the original motor we took the injection pump and the pusher pump plus the fuel filter housing and lines. We have replaced the return lines from injector to injector as well as to the tank. The truck smokes when you step on it and seems to use an extra amount of fuel. We left the original injectos in, but replaced all the O-Rings and made sure the lines where tight. It does not seem to use any oil and the smoke smells like diesel fuel not AF or oil. We are looking at new injectors and a injector line rebuild kit to replace everything. Does anyone else have some suggestions.

Snotzalot · 10-28-2009, 06:58 PM

How did you time the pump?

spazzmaster · 10-28-2009, 07:33 PM

did you accidentally adjust it?

race24x · 10-29-2009, 10:52 AM

OK I dont know, my father swapped it over will that make it smoke quite a bit? How do you time the pump?

race24x · 10-29-2009, 10:54 AM

I called him and he said he took the other one off and there is an alighnment mark on the pump and the housing, he lined them up. Is there more to it than that?

Snotzalot · 10-29-2009, 12:08 PM

Yup sure is, you need to time that pump just like replacing a distributor in a gasser. It's probably retarded from your symptoms. To advance it, move the IP towards the Passenger Side no more than a thickness of a dime and try it.

race24x · 11-02-2009, 02:19 PM

Thanks Snotzalot, We moved it about the thickness of two dimes before it started smoking less going down the road etc. I am trying to convince dad to get it timed professionally. The power is improved quite a bit it seems to have so much more. The only problme it didnt seem to help on was starting. Now it does get cold here in Maine but its only been about 40 at night and it will kill the batteries before it starts, and we have dual battery setup. I am kind of afraid to advance it to much. Is there a way to tell when you have gone to much? Are the marks often off by 1/8 to 1/4 inch or more?

3/4tonman · 11-02-2009, 07:21 PM

Mine was a bear to start until I changed the injector return caps, o-rings, and lines. It still smokes pretty good when you step on it, but at least it starts when its freezing outside now.

race24x · 11-02-2009, 11:43 PM

Iam not sure about the return caps but the O rings and lines have been all replaced. What do the return caps do????

3/4tonman · 11-03-2009, 12:44 AM

They just create an area for the excess fuel to return back to the filter and the tank. Over time they can become brittle crack and deform, so even with new o-rings they still may not seal properly. I also changed the copper crush seals that go under the injectors. With the injectors out I cleaned em up and just checked that they were ok. Someone may want to correct me on this, but if your injectors have a lot of miles (100k+) on the you may want to replace them anyway.

race24x · 11-03-2009, 10:23 AM

My other engine was running fine except for the antifreeze leaking in. Would it be Ok to pull those injectors and put them in a different engine

Snotzalot · 11-03-2009, 10:29 AM

Sure can, but make sure your batteries are fully charged, cables and terminals are good and starter is good before you start with the injectors. Get it timed properly then start fiddling with the injectors.

How log does the Wait To Start light stay on when it's cold?

race24x · 11-04-2009, 09:09 AM

Both batteries fully charged it turns over ok, but you have to crank it so long to get it to run it drains them. Only when its cold. Plug in the block heater and it starts OK. I have replaced the glow plugs and checked the GP box as well as put the old GP's on the wires and grounded them to make sure it was heating them up and they do get red hot.
I would guess about 5 seconds on the wait to start light then it clicks on and off about 3 times (not the light but you can here the GP box clicking them on and off)
The old motor started pretty well and we used the IP GP box and wiring on the newer engine. The new engine has way more power, but doesnt start when it is cold and smokes especially if you let it idle a while and then take off. It is better about smoking going down the road now that we advanced he timing some. I am still working on my dad to ge the timing set by a pro who knows how to do it instead of by ear. I am afraid to go to far with it because I think you can crack a piston or do other bad things to a motor.

Snotzalot · 11-04-2009, 11:46 AM

Quote:

I would guess about 5 seconds on the wait to start light then it clicks on and off about 3 times

It sounds like you have one bad GP, you did use the old GP's? You need to test all with an Ohm meter and replace id necessary.

race24x · 11-04-2009, 02:10 PM

No we pulled all of the old GP's and replaced them with new ones.