Hey there, I just traded for hard starting 7.3 with five speed f350, when I turn on key wts for about 10-15 seconds then lots of clicking, however truck will not start without small shot of starting fluid. Any suggestions on where to start? GPs, solenoid, module? I read several posts and am thinking solenoid.... This is my first diesel thanks in advance
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1989 F350 flatbed 7.3 IDI 5 speed overdrive new Motorcraft Glow Plugs and starts real good
The start sequence is Key on, WTS light on, then off, now start engine with foot 1/2 way to floor. Clicking is there as the GP controller clears up any smoke from the start. The fast idle should hold the engine at 850-900 rpm when pedal released. NEVER use ether with operating GPs or you could kill your engine.
I will PM you the complete start sequence. <font color="red">Look for the hand up by your name. </font>
Put all your known truck info into a signature on your My Home area, it helps us immensely and you will not have to type it each time.
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
Had a poster a couple weeks ago had the same problem. Long wait to start light but no glo plug activity. Never did see what his fix was. My opinion is the controller. The wait to start light(wtsl) is on its own circut inside the controler. If the GP side is shorted to ground, the wtsl side thinks the GPs are working and functions normaly. Check for voltage at the GP while wtsl is on. Even with good GPs it is possible to start with starting fluid. Crank engine until GPs have quit cycling, continue to crank for a few seconds. This will take about 10 to 15 seconds. Leaving key on, add starting fluid or signal a helper to add starting fluid as you continue to crank. DO NOT TURN KEY OFF BEFORE ADDING STARTING FLUID! Watch your voltage gauge to make sure GPs are not active while adding starting fluid. Failure to do this will probably result in damage to your motor and the person adding the starting fluid. This is for when all other methods have been tried. Or when it is way below zero and the truck must start the first time. Like at camp in the hills and there are no electricty trees to plug into at 40 below zero.
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'91 F250 SuperCab 4X4 Stock IDI 2 tone brown E4OD
'88 F350 Crew SRW (now parts)
'97 Aerostar 4X4 Extended 4.0
'93 Sable 3.8
'92 Taures 3.0 sold
'84 Bronco II 2.8 4 speed 4X4
'84 Ranger 2.8 2X4
'50 F-1 V8 Flathead 4-speed non syncro(bought new)
'76 Honda 250 Multi Sport(enduro)
Instead of messing with starting fluid, I have found a good way to get one of these things to fire off really quick.
The only thing the engine needs is a little warm air. If you dig around in your kitchen, you might find that your wife has a mini kitchen torch laying around. We received one as a wedding gift. Take the air cleaner off and blast a flame down the air intake while someone turns it over. It should fire off real quick. In my ambulance I can pull the engine cover and flame-on while I turn the ignition myself. You should probably make sure you have a fire extinguisher within arms reach.
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1989 Ford E-350 Ambulance, 7.3L, C6, 97k miles.
Does it start if you plug it in? How many rpms does it have when your cranking? Use a test light or multimeter and see if your getting any juice to the glow plugs.
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Allen
93 F250, regular cab, 4x4, 7.3 NA, ZF5, 3.55, 209k miles, came home 2/28/06, soon to be turbo.
92 250, regular cab, 4x4, 7.3 NA, E4OD, 3.55, 316k miles, came home 8/28/04, aluminium 16x7 wheels, 285/75/16 Sport King AT.
89 250, extended cab, 4x4, 7.3, ATS wastegated, 5" straight pipe, hand shaker, 4.10, slightly toasted, waiting for a new cab and front end, came home 12/24/04
Ahh it's winter again, here is DieselDon's GP controller info has most everything to know about the operation of the controller and GP's.
If you have 2 or more bad GPs, the controller may not cycle at all.
Two problems that occur with the solid state ( 1987 to 1994 IDI engines ) GP systems. If a GP burns out ( circuit resistance goes up ), the controller cycles the GPs at a faster rate which doesn't let them get to max operating temp. If 2 or more GPs fail, the controller may not cycle the GPs at all ( very rapid or no clicking heard ). When you check the GPs, use an ohmmeter. A high resistance ( not necessarily burned out ) GP can cause circuit resistance to go up and the controller will then cycle the GPs too fast. You probably will not find this problem with a test light. Resistance spec for GPs = .5 to 1 ohm cold. Second problem. A poor controller ground ( black wire attached to valve cover stud ) will cause the controller to leave the GPs on longer, often damaging or failing them. If you are having mulitple GP failures, I would check closely the controller ground. Now the confusing part. Bad ground --> longer GP on time ( slower cycling ). Burned out GPs --> faster cycling If you have both situations, it may appear that the controller is cycling the GPs at the proper rate. Bad ground slows it up while the burned GPs speed it up ---> normal cycling. The system acts/sounds like it's working normally, but you have a hard starting concern.
DieselDon
Glow plug torque is 12 ft lbs, I always use antisieze on the threads.
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
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