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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

       
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Old 08-23-2008, 10:11 AM   #1 (permalink)
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'90 F250 Starts, dies, then takes 2 min of cranking to start

Hi everybody,

I have a 1990 Ford F250 diesel. 7.3 litre, non-turbo.

This truck ran great, but after I had to leave for a couple of months, I came home and now it has this strange problem.

When I start it, it immediately fires up and then dies. After that, it takes probably a full minute and a half to two minutes of cranking to get it to fire up again.

Once I FINALLY get it started, it runs perfectly fine, no problems at all.

...and once it's warmed up if I drive it, it will restart no problem at all as long as it's only been a few hours. BUT, if I leave it overnight, it won't start in the morning unless I crank it for several minutes.

I searched the forums and decided to replace the fuel filter. Didn't fix it.

I noticed that all the return lines between the injectors were cracked and old, so I replaced ALL the rubber lines between the injectors and the rubber lines going up to the fuel filter and IP.

That didn't fix it either.

I don't think it's the fuel pump because once it starts, it runs fine--no problems at all.

Can anyone give me any advice here? I think that my fuel pickup in the tank is broken off, because it sputters and stalls around a 1/4 tank. I make sure the tank is always full, and it still has this problem. Would that be a contributing factor to my situation?

If ANYONE can offer me any advice on this, I would be so grateful. Thank you so much!

-Joe
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Old 08-23-2008, 02:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Does it do it on both tanks? This might help isolate the issue....maybe....

Thad
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Old 08-23-2008, 08:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You have a typical symptom of air in the return lines. Did you replace the caps and O rings too?
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Old 08-24-2008, 02:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
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No, I haven't checked the o-rings or seals. It doesn't look like anything is leaking though. I've looked very closely at each one while the engine is running.

I'm going to see if switching to the rear tank will solve this......I never thought that would be a contributing factor to all the fuel draining from the lines overnight.
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Old 08-25-2008, 09:15 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I'd go ahead and buy a set of caps and o-rings.
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'95 F-250 Ext. Cab long bed 7.3L PSD 4:10 2WD -- 135,165 miles and bone stock for now! (11/09/08)

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Old 08-25-2008, 02:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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yeah i had the same problem. prolly a leak in your return lines.
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7.3 IDI F-350 4x4 1990
-Custom: '92 interior; Banks Y Pipe, Flowmaster muffler and Dual 4.25" Stacks
-Reman'd: Heavy Duty E4OD and Billet Converter; Transfer Case; Water pump; Power Steering pump; Denso Starter
-New: Brakes; Engine seals and oil pan; Oil pump; RUST-FREE Cab and Bed
-Pro Comp "Holley Red style" electric fuel pump
-3" Body Lift
-Fresh under coating on frame No more face full of rust under the truck!!
-16x10 Eagle Alloy 186 with 33's
-8ft snow plow

4.6l Mustang GT 1997
-Custom side exhaust (no mufflers, Ford Racing Exhaust tips
-Aftermarket stereo (Alpine headunit; JL Component Speakers; JL 300x2 Amp; JL 10" W7 Sub; JL 500x1 Amp)

GOTTA LOVE FORD MUSCLE
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Old 09-01-2008, 01:13 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I don`t know the jargon. Caps and o-rings i assume are injector caps and o-rings?
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Old 09-01-2008, 01:47 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgardner View Post
I don`t know the jargon. Caps and o-rings i assume are injector caps and o-rings?
Correct
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'95 F-250 Ext. Cab long bed 7.3L PSD 4:10 2WD -- 135,165 miles and bone stock for now! (11/09/08)

IDM Modded, cruise now works thanks to BlueMule's advice!
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Old 09-01-2008, 02:09 PM   #9 (permalink)
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My 89 F-350 has had almost exactly the same symptons . Is there a kit and how big a job is it to tackle? Remove all injector lines...and injectors? My neighbor said the Navistar guy told him I need to check that valve by the fuel separator that looks like a tire valve.Says it is loosing its "prime". What is that thing for ? Appreciate the feedback.
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Old 09-01-2008, 02:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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My 88 had the same problem. I replaced the caps and o rings. problem solved. NAPA sells a kit with caps, lines, and o rings. Job might take an hour it's pretty staight forward. remove metal line pull cap off replace o rings put new cap on tighten line.
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Old 09-01-2008, 06:41 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgardner View Post
My neighbor said the Navistar guy told him I need to check that valve by the fuel separator that looks like a tire valve.Says it is loosing its "prime". What is that thing for ?
Its on top of the fuel filter. One the side closest to the center of the engine there is a valve that sticks out. It is a tire valve with a small cap on it. He's saying crank the engine to build pressure then go open that valve n c if fuel squirts out. If it does that means you have fuel up to the filter. If not then you are loosing fuel pressure somewhere.

Also check your line integrity. My metal lines were rusted through and the rubber return line out of the IP was cracked. I replaced it with clear tubing to see the fuel. That way i can monitor whether i have air leaks building or not.
__________________
7.3 IDI F-350 4x4 1990
-Custom: '92 interior; Banks Y Pipe, Flowmaster muffler and Dual 4.25" Stacks
-Reman'd: Heavy Duty E4OD and Billet Converter; Transfer Case; Water pump; Power Steering pump; Denso Starter
-New: Brakes; Engine seals and oil pan; Oil pump; RUST-FREE Cab and Bed
-Pro Comp "Holley Red style" electric fuel pump
-3" Body Lift
-Fresh under coating on frame No more face full of rust under the truck!!
-16x10 Eagle Alloy 186 with 33's
-8ft snow plow

4.6l Mustang GT 1997
-Custom side exhaust (no mufflers, Ford Racing Exhaust tips
-Aftermarket stereo (Alpine headunit; JL Component Speakers; JL 300x2 Amp; JL 10" W7 Sub; JL 500x1 Amp)

GOTTA LOVE FORD MUSCLE
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