Hi
I have a 92 F350 7.3 5 speed with 167,000 miles. Just recently it has developed a blue smoke. It smokes lightly at idle and more so when under acceleration and deceleration particularly under compression, such as down a long grade. I replaced the injectors (with Delphi, possibly that was a mistake) not long ago. There is no starting problem and there is no loss of power. The smoke is blue and at idle smells somewhat of fuel. I did get some fuel at a place where I do not normally go recently.I just did an oil change as I have every 3000 miles. As I said before the power is good and the engine runs good just that annoying smoke. It seems from my farming past that we had a tractor with similar symptoms and if I remember right it was an injector that was not seating leaking into a cylinder. Is this a possibility ? Any ideas ? Thanks in advance for your input.
Mike
__________________
1992 F 350 4x4 7.3 IDI 155000 miles
When was the last time the CDR was serviced? If its stuck your going to blow a lot of oil out of the crankcase into your air intake
__________________
ASE Certified Master Mechanic
1994 F250 ZF5 turbo(factory) a work in progress 208000 miles and counting..
Retired in 2005 more time to work on the truck!
34 years as a ford prototype mechanic.. Now running a big truck shop... series 60 detroits mostly...
Crankcase Depression Regulator valve, it works to limit the vacuum applied to the crankcase. When it gets sludged up or the diaphram rubber deteriorates, it allows excessive flow of oil vaopr into the intake manifold.
The part is at the very rear of the intake manifold, and bolted to the manifold with 2 bolts. It looks somewhat like a large tuna can.
Just pick up a new one at the Ford dealer and replace it.
Ford calls it an "adaptor".
__________________
1985 International rollback, 6.9L 5 speed "Li'l Big Truck"
blue smoke is really only a sign of burning oil in a gasser.
the blue smoke your describing is either from retarded timing or low injcetor pop pressure, i had the same problem when i installed a new set of injectors in my truck, and they were delphi [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bleh.gif[/img]
try advancing your timing a couple degrees, it worked great for me
__________________
2001 F-350 7.3L 4X4(ESOF) CC LWB 4R100 4X4, WIX 46637 open element air filter, Wicked Wheel, walker BTM, 203* Tstat, IC tube foil removed, coolant filter, AIH removed, 08 aluminum finned rear end cover, DP tuner 80econ 140smoke high idle,Phantom gauges, ATS transmission,ATS deep trans pan, 5 star torque converter, V10 trans cooler, 4" MRBP SS downpipe, twin 4" stacks
[ QUOTE ]
The smoke is blue and at idle smells somewhat of fuel
[/ QUOTE ]
Bing Bong.....anybody there........I would have the injectors tested, where did you get them........
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
Thanks for all of the info. I assume injectors need to be bench tested ? Does someone make a wrench to get to the nuts on the pump or do I just modify a 9/16 ? I would guess there is a tool made to rotate the pump as well ? I got the injectors at Oregon Injection in Eugene OR. I hope I could find someone in the Portland area to test. Is there any way of testing on the vehicle. Running and crack the lines one at a time will drop that particular cylinder and if one is opened and a signifant miss does not occur that injector may not be functioning efficently ( again back to the old farm tractor method) , Is there any sense in going thru this routine ? The engine starts easily, if I try working with the timing, I assume from the info that has been provided I would want to start with a 2 to 3 degree advance, does this sound right ?
Thanks Again
Mike
__________________
1992 F 350 4x4 7.3 IDI 155000 miles
they make a special wrench(half moon) and they make a special tool to turn it. you don't need either if your careful, take the high idle solenoid off(2 7/16" bolts) that will allow you to get to the bolt on the passanger side, then on the drivers side you might need to take the back bolt out of the timing cover this will allow you to get all the bolts with a regular combonation wrench, turn the pump so the top of it moves twoards the passanger side. move it just a little maybe so the timing lines on the pump and timing cover are seperated by 1/16" you can turn it by CAREFULLY grabbing it with a large pair of channel locks or a pipe wrench
this is a pretty back yard way to do it but it will get you by, you really should have it dynamically timed
__________________
2001 F-350 7.3L 4X4(ESOF) CC LWB 4R100 4X4, WIX 46637 open element air filter, Wicked Wheel, walker BTM, 203* Tstat, IC tube foil removed, coolant filter, AIH removed, 08 aluminum finned rear end cover, DP tuner 80econ 140smoke high idle,Phantom gauges, ATS transmission,ATS deep trans pan, 5 star torque converter, V10 trans cooler, 4" MRBP SS downpipe, twin 4" stacks
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.