93 7.3 IDI Won't Start (occasionally) - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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Old 07-10-2005, 05:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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93 7.3 IDI Won't Start (occasionally)

Hello,

My friend has a 93 F250 7.3 IDI (non-turbo) with about 150K miles. It runs great most of the time. There have been a couple of occasions when, after it has been shut down, it will not restart. The engine is still hot, so it would not need the glow plugs to start again. After waiting 5 to 10 minutes, it starts right up again. The engine was not working hard before this happened.

Has anyone had a similar experience?

Thanks,

DieselDug
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Old 07-10-2005, 05:57 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: 93 7.3 IDI Won't Start (occasionally)

This is either going to be a bad injector pump or a weak starter 9 times out of 10. Could be weak batteries to. Why? Because teh engine needs to spin faster to start wehn hot. True, it has no need for glow plugs when warm or hot. Hope it's just the starter or batts. the fuel system is a real pain!
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Old 07-10-2005, 07:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: 93 7.3 IDI Won't Start (occasionally)

My '93 did the same thing and it turned out to be the Injector Pump. Your mileage is about right for a new pump.

Dave
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Old 07-10-2005, 09:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: 93 7.3 IDI Won't Start (occasionally)

when the ip is worn--and the diesel fuel gets warm--the two compounded factors make for a problem--to check if its the ip--let the truck get warmed fully--then shut off--if wont restart--get a can of off cool water--pour over the top of the ip--wait 1 minute-and do this---then try to restart--if does--ip--clearances have gotten to the high end of loose--and wont build enough pressure to start--i/e pop the injector---
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Old 07-11-2005, 05:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: 93 7.3 IDI Won't Start (occasionally)

Make sure you have not left the key in the on position. One time turned the key on to listen to the radio and had trouble starting the truck. As I recall, I read in the manual that there is a timer on the glow plug circuit that takes about 10 minutes to reset if left on. Anyway, that was one of my learnings.
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Old 07-11-2005, 05:50 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: 93 7.3 IDI Won't Start (occasionally)

I agree with the IP pump and the starter but I read in this forum before to be cautious with the cool water test as it could damage a good pump!?

Although somewhat of a pain I did my IP pump myself - bought a rebuilt IP from a reputable shop (advertised on this site) for a reasonable cash outlay. I took extra time to make sure I knew what I was doing (advice from this site and the shop I bought the pump from)and then I got to wrenching. After a few hours the truck was fired up and was barely running - 'we' covered my shop wall with soot! Oh my, but the skeeters were gone!

I had built a very simple lever arm that bolted to two bolts in the side of the IP pump so I could rotate the IP to set timing. The error I made was I aligned the marks in the IP housing with those on the truck and because it was a rebuilt it was the old marks and didn't match the truck. It was close enough to get the truck started and I set the timing by ear. Next I took it to the local diesel shop and they didn't change a thing, said timing was good and offered me a job! Of course the rest of the truck/resume showed the limits of my abilities.

Truck has run perfect from then on --- but --- needed a new started anyway because I spent a year too long cranking on the motor to get it running with the bad pump!?

Oh well ...
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Old 07-11-2005, 10:17 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: 93 7.3 IDI Won't Start (occasionally)

No timer I know of...........

93 year info.......other than some fuses mentioned the 7.3 system 87-94 is basically the same.

GLOW PLUG CONTROL
HOW THE CIRCUIT WORKS
The Glow Plug Control circuit applies power to the Glow Plugs, which heat the combustion chambers so that the diesel engine can be started.

Glow Plug Controller
The solid-state Glow Plug Controller, attached to the top of the engine block, controls the Glow Plug pre-glow and after-glow time. It also controls the circuit’s operation by sensing engine temperature, Glow Plug voltage and after-glow voltage
from the start/run circuit.

When the Ignition Switch is turned to START or RUN, voltage from Maxi-fuse K is applied through the Glow Plug Controller to the Wait-To-Start Indicator Lamp.
The Glow Plugs heat up in zero to fifteen seconds, depending on engine coolant temperature. After the Glow Plugs heat up, the controller cycling switch opens and turns the Wait-To-Start Indicator Lamp off. The Glow Plugs are now warm enough for the engine to be started.

At the same time the Ignition Switch is turned to RUN, voltage from Maxi-fuse K is applied to the after-glow timer (located inside the Glow Plug Controller). The after-glow timer cycles the Glow Plugs for up to two minutes, depending on engine temperature. The after-glow timer then opens. The Wait-To-Start Indicator Lamp will not light during the after-glow period.
If the Ignition Switch is turned OFF, it can be turned to ON immediately, and the Glow Plug heating cycle will start again.

Diesel Start/Run
The diesel engine uses two batteries to provide extra power for starting and Glow Plug heating. Power is applied from the batteries, through heavy gauge wires, to the Starter Solenoid (located in the Starter Motor assembly). When the Wait-To-Start Indicator goes out, the Ignition Switch can be turned to START.

With the Ignition Switch in START or RUN, voltage is supplied to the Fuel Heater, Fuel Shutoff Solenoid, and the Engine Temperature Switch through Maxi-fuses K and U.
The Fuel Heater is in the Fuel Filter/Separator. It heats the diesel fuel, melting any wax that might clog the filter. The heater has an internal thermostat to turn it on as needed at 32*F.

The Fuel Shutoff Solenoid controls the flow of fuel into the injection pump. With the Ignition Switch in START or RUN, the Solenoid is energized, and fuel is allowed to flow into the injection pump. When the Ignition Switch is turned off, the solenoid is deenergized, fuel flow stops, and the engine stops running.

The Engine Temperature Switch provides voltage to the Cold Timing Advance Solenoid and the Cold Idle Solenoid. When the engine temperature is below 112°F (44°C), the Engine Temperature Switch is closed. When the Ignition Switch is turned to START or RUN, the solenoids are energized, advancing injection pump timing and engine idle, allowing the engine to run more smoothly when cold. When the engine temperature reaches 112°F (44°C), the Engine Temperature Switch opens. This deenergizes the solenoids, returning the timing and idle to normal.
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Old 07-11-2005, 11:56 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: 93 7.3 IDI Won't Start (occasionally)

Thank y'all for your input. It is much appreciated.

Doug
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Old 07-12-2005, 12:00 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: 93 7.3 IDI Won't Start (occasionally)

[ QUOTE ]
I agree with the IP pump and the starter but I read in this forum before to be cautious with the cool water test as it could damage a good pump!?

Although somewhat of a pain I did my IP pump myself - bought a rebuilt IP from a reputable shop (advertised on this site) for a reasonable cash outlay. I took extra time to make sure I knew what I was doing (advice from this site and the shop I bought the pump from)and then I got to wrenching. After a few hours the truck was fired up and was barely running - 'we' covered my shop wall with soot! Oh my, but the skeeters were gone!

I had built a very simple lever arm that bolted to two bolts in the side of the IP pump so I could rotate the IP to set timing. The error I made was I aligned the marks in the IP housing with those on the truck and because it was a rebuilt it was the old marks and didn't match the truck. It was close enough to get the truck started and I set the timing by ear. Next I took it to the local diesel shop and they didn't change a thing, said timing was good and offered me a job! Of course the rest of the truck/resume showed the limits of my abilities.

<font color="red">Truck has run perfect from then on --- but --- needed a new starter anyway because I spent a year too long cranking on the motor to get it running with the bad pump!?</font>

Oh well ...

[/ QUOTE ]

Man, ain't that the truth!!! Baja
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<font color="red">Link to GP Controller Diagram</font> <font color="blue">Link to "Electric Fuel Pump Wiring Diagram"</font>
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