93 turbo 7.3 starting problem

[93whoDATdiesel]

a few days ago. The symptoms made me think it was an alternator issue but I have had it and the batteries checked and they are good. Today I replaced all of the battery cables and checked all of the fuses. I cleaned every terminal and solenoid contact. I am still getting a slow chug chug chug on the starter even when the voltage reads good. I have tried hooking up a large 200 amp jumper and it still doesn't seem to want to start.

When this began a few days ago the starter would turn normally the first three or so cycles and then would start slowing down like there isn't enough juice in the battery. Now even after charging batteries and hooking up a jumper it is slowly turning. The starter was replaced by the previous owner about 3 months ago and appears to be in good condition. This truck had no starting issues before except there is a trick with the glow plugs. The previous owner told me that there was something going on with the relay and in order for the glow plugs to cycle I need to turn the ignition 4ish times until the plugs are warmed. Since I got the truck this has worked smoothly, I would turn and hear it click and see it click on the voltage meter and then after 4 or so times it would stop clicking and start right up. The previous owner told me that he recently replaced only 4 of the 8 glow plugs about a year ago, he said the other 4 were too hard to reach with the turbo in the way.

I have pretty much exhausted everything I can think of and I need to be on the road with this truck after Mardi Gras or I'm in trouble.

I have cleaned replaced or checked the following;

2 three month old 850 cca batteries

All battery cables transferred from another working truck, previous cables had quite a few nicks in the neg cable that grounds to the block on passenger side.

Alternator tested good

all fuses test good now, replaced one large 20A under the hood a few days ago

all terminals on batteries solenoids etc.

checked most of the vacuum system, found one bad hose and replaced

checked all visible fuel return lines on top of the engine, no apparent leaks

This should have no relevance but I upgraded the dual mass clutch and flywheel to the solid mass about 2 weeks ago



I have not done much to check;

glow plugs
solenoids
relays
starter (maybe it is drawing to much?)
wiring other than the battery and its endings


What should be my first step? What are my best tools to use? I read all of the glow plug thread and I may start there. I have tried finding an automotive test light like mentioned at a few places here with no success.

[jwalterus]

check the ground cable to the engine, I've had a problem like this before with vehicles and it was completely corroded away inside, even though the ends looked good!

other than that, I'd check the starter

[NH2112]

Check amp draw while cranking, or you can check voltage drop while cranking if you don't have an inductive ammeter. If voltage drops much below 10.5V the amps will increase (because V*A=W), more amps = more heat, excess heat = fried starter.

Don't trust the voltmeter on the dash, you'll want to use a multimeter instead. Have the batteries load tested, the standard 130-150A "toaster" style tester won't put enough of a load to simulate starting a diesel engine so you'll want to find someone with a carbon pile unit capable of applying a load equal to at least 1/2 the CCA rating. When I test diesel batteries I automatically put on my tester's 500A max load. Make sure to test the batteries separately.

[Kevooo]

What does the alternator have to do with a slow cranking issue? Where did the starter come from? Is it under warranty? If it came from a discount parts store, your probably wasting your time. You may not like the price, but the FORD remans work well.

[93whoDATdiesel]

Ugh what a nightmare. I pulled the batteries again after charging them all night and trying it this morning, still same slow chug chug chug maybe twice a second. The starter is definitely not turning over fast enough even with those batteries charged. One of the batteries tested with a bad cell, I got another 880cca battery and threw it in there and it was no better. I just got off the phone with my buddy and he thinks it is mostly because it is so cold but we are in louisiana and it barely got to freezing last night and it is around 40 now. He let me listen to his cvrank on the phone after sitting a week and it was slow kinda like mine but his fired right up after a few seconds, mine doesnt. MY mechanic buddy gave it a tiny spray of ether in the intake to see if we could get it to turn and after a few cranks it started. I let it run for afew minutes and killed and then cranked again and it started right back up. I let it run for about 20 mins to make sure the batteries were good and charged and that everything else was running ok. I killed it and started working on my tie rods to give it 20 or 30 mins so I can try it again cold. After sitting 25 mins it is doing the same as before with the slow cranking on the starter. My buddy is coming over with a multimeter and some other tools, what readings should I look for at the solenoids and on the starter? Where do I put the poles of the tester? Can I use a 12V 200A jumper to test the starter and if so do I ground out the black wire or connect it to the starter also?


My next step will be to pull the starter. Yesterday wasn't a total bust, I was able to fix the antenna, tailgate, and do some tie rods. This starting issue is really making me nervous now though. I replaced the cracked battery lead as well.

I am also going to pull the engine block cable out of my other truck and see if it will go in this one. The previous owner told me it didn't work and sometimes he'd use a light bulb but it looked like his block cable was fried so I have my fingers crossed that the heater still works.

I am totally open to all ideas. I was thinking about grabbing all of the solenoids and the starter off of my parts truck but obviously I would prefer to not do useless things like what I've tried over the last 2 days. Advice welcome.

[Plywood]

Cheap starter fix tip!!

Take a look at my first post there, may or may not be the problem you're dealing with.

[cdnsarguy]

First make sure the BH red power plug is in the BH, then do a continuity test with a meter on the main plug wires at the grill. If there is no continuity check the wires for breaks just behind the 120V plug. Pull on the wires and you can see the break as the shielding gets smaller, cut off the end. If the 2 power wires now have continuity through the BH just replace the 3 prong plug.