The Diesel Stop banner

Advice for a new buyer

2K views 10 replies 6 participants last post by  chuckster57 
#1 · (Edited)
So I've never owned a diesel before and don't know much about them. I created an account here to get some advice.
I've looked over a few posts here and honestly kind of makes me want a diesel even more.
I'm about to go buy a 1990 F-250 XLT Lariat 4x4 5-speed manual supposedly with 282k on it for $3,500.
Does that seem like a fair price? My father thinks it sounds too low to be a good thing.
It looks pretty good considering what it is. Also what should I look for?
Any tell tale signs that it's not a good buy?
I'm honestly just looking to buy a 3/4 ton 4x4 for all my utility needs like pulling a large cabin cruiser, trailer with 4wheelers, etc so I probably don't really need a diesel but sure sounds fun.
Any feedback and advice is welcome, good or bad.
I don't know if I am allowed to post the CL URL so I linked the pictures instead.


 
See less See more
3
#2 ·
First thing I would ask for is maintenance records, you'll know if it's a good buy if the previous owner kept maintained records and has receipts to back them up.
Find out when (with proof) when the diffs were changed, do they leak?, when was the transmission serviced and filter changed? When was the fuel filter changed, bring a volt meter check what the alternator puts out and what the batteries are sitting at before you start it, condition of tires?
Does it have any rust?
What work has been done to it exactly?
When we're the brakes done?

Get as much information as you can to paint a larger picture.

While the sticker price might be low you want to make sure your not putting in a couple hundred dollars a month in keeping and older truck alive because at that price you might as well buy a new used vehicle under warranty and pay a lease
 
#3 ·
Welcome o the Diesel Stop

A fair price is one that both the seller and buyer feel like they got a good deal.

1990 means it's a 7.3 IDI non turbo. It's not going to be fast, and it will produce about 160 HP. If you can find a complete IDI turbo kitit will help with oomph. You want to see it start COLD. the wait to start light should be on for about 12 seconds, if not either a glow plug is bad or the engine was started warm. Look for any smoke at start up, if there is what color and does it dissipate quickly or hang around like a cloud? What does it smell like?

How large is the cabin cruiser? You may be trying to tow too much boat for this truck.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Since the 90's only had a 5 digit odometer, hard to tell if the mileage is correct.

Ask the owner if he kept up the SCA (Supplemental Coolant Additive) if he don't know what that is, I would walk away from that truck. The SCA's help to keep the engine from cavitation, pin holes in the cylinder walls, namely #6-7-8.

Pulling a Cabin Cruiser with a manual is OK so long as you don't exceed the load limit, around 10K to 15K, boat and trailer combined weight. Truck probably weigh's in around 7500 Lbs. I had a Sg.cab F350 DRW auto and pulled a 4500 Lb trailer with a F350 DWR on it, total combined load was around 19K to 20K. Was a struggle to get up to 60 MPH about a mile on Interstate Hwy.

If you do get it, change all the fluids, then you have a base for them, Coolant, engine and both Diff's., use Synthetic or Mix in the Diff's., some use ATF in the Trans., some use SAE 30 in them.

A truck that old has probably got the fuel tank(s) pickup either dropped off or disintegrated. Easy way to check is pull the bed off, then you can pull the fuel senders to check it out. If you suck air when you have a 1/4 tank of fuel or less, then they are gone. Pic below.

You don't say where your located, might have to check load limit in your state.

I see Chuckster with other info.

If you do buy it and pull that boat, make sure you go ever the brakes, front and rear.
 

Attachments

#5 · (Edited)
I would have to disagree with walking away from a truck if the buyer didn't know about coolant additives, while I agree that these trucks and other older diesels were prone to pitting of the cylinder walls due to coolant issues.
Modern diesel coolant already has the additives you need in it, although I would simply test the coolant. What color is it? If is regular green crap then yes walk away, but if it's the diesel coolant (being orange or redish or yellowish) it's fine. Just have it tested or do a flush regardless (I would flush all fluids and start fresh).

If your going to tow with it get a transmission temp sensor, installed or do it yourself (in the test port on the driver side above the mid level of the pan) search here for threads on that topic.
I'm installing one myself this summer.

If I was you I would look for one with a turbo to be honest, it's alot of km's on that truck and non turbo sorta suck's, I have one it's less fuel efficient, but it's a work truck and it makes me money daily so I'm not going to complain. Look for a 93 or 94
 
#6 · (Edited)
Thanks for the replies guys! I appreciate the info.
I guess I should have mentioned I live in Tennessee.
The boat I believe is a 26 or 28 possibly 32 foot something like that Chris Craft. My dad is restoring it so that's a long ways away, mostly the truck will be used for stuff like transporting my LP tanks, taking trash, and going to 4x4 parks/trails with 2 medium 4 wheelers on a medium sized trailer. Stuff I'm sure won't challenge even a non turbo diesel. Oh and of course when I need a 4x4 due to weather.
I definitely will try to get as much records as possible and definitely watch for the cooling issue. I've also heard to open the oil cap while it's running to check for excessive blow by. Is there any other little stuff like that I can look for or listen for?
As far as the slow sluggish part goes, I have driven my uncle's 92 f350 dually 2 wheel drive 5 speed and it definitely was the slowest vehicle I have ever driven but it doesn't bother me at all, not to say if the truck turns out to be a great truck for me I won't turbo it at some point most likely.

Oh and I forgot to mention, as much as I'd love to go test it in the freezing cold like it normally would be here in TN in February, it has been extremely warm for the season, averaging 65 degrees. So unfortunately I doubt I'll get the chance to start it in any colder weather than maybe 50.
 
#7 ·
Since it's a hand shaker (manual transmission) the need for a transmission temp gauge isn't that important, just keep good fluid in it. IIRC synthetic will handle more heat than conventional oil.
 
#8 ·
I've also heard to open the oil cap while it's running to check for excessive blow by.
That's incorrect. Most blowby, excessive or not is bleeding off through the CDR valve, so pulling the cap tells you nothing actually. And as Chuckster posted, with the ZF 5 speed, a trans temp gauge is not necessary. For fluid, they take synthetic ATF. In 248,000 miles, mostly towing, I've never touched my 5 speed other than change fluid every 80,000. They are a trouble-free trans if treated right.
not to say if the truck turns out to be a great truck for me I won't turbo it at some point most likely.
That's true. I bought my pickup new in '91, pulled my 3 horse gooseneck for 30,000 miles and couldn't stand the lack of power any longer so I installed an ATS turbo kit. Even with that, we bought a 7100 lb. skid steer 2 weeks ago up in MT and pulling it back on my 4000+ lb. gooseneck flatbed I was down in 2nd gear on one of the short but steeper grades. Any speed you want on the flats though.
 
#9 ·
That's true. I bought my pickup new in '91, pulled my 3 horse gooseneck for 30,000 miles and couldn't stand the lack of power any longer so I installed an ATS turbo kit. Even with that, we bought a 7100 lb. skid steer 2 weeks ago up in MT and pulling it back on my 4000+ lb. gooseneck flatbed I was down in 2nd gear on one of the short but steeper grades. Any speed you want on the flats though.
They won't get you there fast, but they WILL get you there. Even the naturally aspirated one that I drive, whie it is a little slow on the uptake, once it gets going, it will hang in there. The one that I broke the piston in got me from Kalispel MT. to Topeka KS. WITH a breaking piston. Not many engines would do that, across all of the mountains around Bozeman, and Butte and all. Then when I got it home I drove it for most of a year lying to myself about what I was hearing, until it finally told me all about it real loud and clear. It STILL got me home. These are some tough little engines, and that makes the trucks some tough little trucks. They will take a lot of punishment, I learned that when driving them around the oil patch of N.E. Texas back in the '80s. Which is why I still own one now.
 
#10 ·
I was also wondering if these are as reasonable as I've heard for maintenance costs compared to the powerstroke and other diesels? So far from what little I've looked up anyway the injectors and pump etc are far far cheaper than the powerstroke.
 
#11 ·
Parts are a lot cheaper than the powerstroke, but finding any new parts is going to be harder than finding hens teeth.

My turbo'd IDI yanked a 36' fiver across the country and back in '09. Never skipped a beat in 8511 miles. I wouldn't hesitate to do it again, but now I have a lighter trailer.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top