i found this metal inside my air cleaner can i remove it. its the part infront of the intake hole metal
and will it improve proformance if removed?
thanks
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, 3:73 dana 80 rear, srw, dana 50 front, heavy duty leaf springs, back up camera, 20$ wallyworld fog lamps, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, brush guard with front mount hitch, 32" steering tires all around, ac power converter,jeep bucket seats, deezee runningboards (cab only),cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, 2 trucklight worklights on front stake pocket each side,high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, 6600 lbs with all my junk
That's a really huge pic and I'm on a modem so I haven't looked at it to see, but this is what I've learned from my time here at TDS. On a diesel, any airflow improvements you make must also be accompanied by a proportional fuel delivery increase if you want to realize any horsepower improvements. The injection pump delivers the same amount of fuel no matter what, and the energy is contained in the fuel. Improving airflow allows you to burn more fuel, thus creating more power.
A pyrometer is very useful in finding that "proportional increase" in fuel quantity. When you improve airflow you should see a drop in EGT, this is when you can increase the fuel setting incrementally until you arrive back at the same EGT level. Then you know that you're not pushing the engine any harder than it's designed to handle. Turning up the fuel delivery without a pyrometer is generally a bad idea though...
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1986 F250 2WD Super Cab XLT Lariat w/ 1996 front clip. Dually bed & van rearend (2" wider, allows spring clearance). 6.9 w/ approx 120,000mi. Banks non-wastegated turbo system, Beru ZD1A glowplugs, Delphi BB injectors, Kenworth pyrometer, vac/boost gauge, electric water temp/oil psi/voltmeter mounted in dash. 3" Mandrel-bent open exhaust. C6 trans, 3.54 gears. Okiegringo idler pulley. R134a A/C conversion. WMO/diesel blend in one tank.
It will improve performance when you replace it with a turbo airbox. [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif[/img] Diesels just don't respond to little things like gasoline engines. In the attached link, a dyno compared breather assembly on and off and the results were exactly the same. To get more power time is better spent making money to buy a turbo than trying to work around it. [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif[/img] The dyno tells the truth many don't like to hear
yes but a engine is just an air pump and my exhust is far past gone tis got a glasspack hanging there by the skin of its teeth which is more open therfore i need to in theroy open up the air box to let more in so more can go out
im thinking of doing a ram air thing on the cheap i saw on here
just to keep it working well because thats more cole dense air instead of warm less dense air which engines dont like
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, 3:73 dana 80 rear, srw, dana 50 front, heavy duty leaf springs, back up camera, 20$ wallyworld fog lamps, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, brush guard with front mount hitch, 32" steering tires all around, ac power converter,jeep bucket seats, deezee runningboards (cab only),cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, 2 trucklight worklights on front stake pocket each side,high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, 6600 lbs with all my junk
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