Hi ,its that time of year so here comes the air questions ,oh 91 f 250 7.3 ,I put on my air and its not real cold ,I lift the hood and see the comperssor runs for a few seconds then stops afew seconds then starts and runs afew seconds then stops ,I guess what I am trying to find out is SHOULD the comperssor run steady if I have the air on in the truck ?? if so any idea why it don`t??
Thanks so much.
Most likely you have a small leak and your freon level is down to where the AC will barely run before the low side pressure gets low enough to trip the pressure switch.
If your system has not been converted to R134a you will need to have a shop charge the AC since R12 is no longer available to the general public.
__________________
1985 International rollback, 6.9L 5 speed "Li'l Big Truck"
Look at the A/C lines and find the schrader charging valves. the large line is the low side (Vac. or 70 PSI), small line is hi side (230 PSI), hi side valve is by the A/C compressor, lo side is by the little accumulator tank passenger side. If they have an aluminium fitting screwed on them then it has been changed to 134A refrigerant. There should also be a blue/wht. tag when changed over. If not changed to 134A go to Autozone-Advance-Napa and get a kit to change over to 134A. You don't have enough R12 to keep the compressor clutch engaged, what little you have bleed it off. When changing over, there is a plug in at the accumulator, unplug it and use a paper clip bent in a U shape and jumper the plug to keep the compressor clutch engaged while recharging with 134A. Takes about 1-1/2 cans 134A to charge system. After recharge plug the plug back into the pressure switch. A/C compressors will loose charge out the drive shaft seal over a period of time if they haven't been run for a while. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img]
Just make sure and read the kit directions and understand them.
Those are called "death kits" in the industry and while they will work (for a while) just consider the cost if it gums up the system later. If you want to switch it over the industry standard is to flush all old oil from the system which is a big job, but not as bad as fixing broken stuff.
Been running the change over kits to 134A for 5-6 yrs. now with no problems, cars and trucks no difference, just make sure you add the oil additive. There was a lot of discussion about changing all the hoses, when 134a first came out, because the 134a molecules are smaller and would leak thru the R12 hoses ,that didn't prove out either, but they sure sold a lot of hoses, so what just add more 134a if needed, it's cheap compared to R12. Mexican R12 is $800 to $1000 for a 20 lb. jug if you can find it. I've changed over RVs that had propane as a refrigerant in them and everything else someone thought would cool. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img]
R12 is still available, but harder to find. R12 does cool better. I had my system fixed/serviced last year (and I'm in California). R12 goes for $50 - $80 a pound here.
__________________
92 F350 XLT Crewcab dually, 204K miles ATS turbo, 3 inch exhaust, DPS IP & Stage 1 injectors, Holly Red pump, K&N, E40D, aux cooler, A-pillar guages, 410 limited-slip rear, Rancho 9000s, towing package, full running boards, mud flaps, 94' Ford (Alcoa) aluminum wheels, Predator camper shell, 200 watts of Sony/Boston Acoustics! Complete engine rebuild at 176k miles. Ford reman E4OD at 204k miles.
2001 Komfort 26FS My Truck
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
