Are there any mods I can do to the air intake on my 7.3 non turbo to get a little air into the motor. have read on here about a soup bowl conversion or something in that sense. I dont want to turbo the motor because $3000 is what I paid for the truck so it is hard to spend the same money and just get a turbo. Any opinions are welcome
Thank You
Dan
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93 Ford 7.3 non-turbo 160K E40D
Stock Unfortunatley
Do a search on the soup bowl mod. Someone has posted photos in the past. I believe that it is just cutting off some restrictive parts of the air cleaner housing. hopefully someone will come along with a link to the photos soon.
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1990 F-350 Dually 4X4 CC Rebuilt Turbo and NEW 7.3L DAS engine, rebuilt rear diff, Reman E4OD Stage 1 injectors Stage 1 pump Baumann recal kit and TDC for E4OD dead trans again...
2004 F-350 4X4 CC 6.0 PSD
2004 Wilderness 320dbhs TT
Try the links in this thread. sorry do not know how to make it a neat little link.
<font color="blue">edited to fix link </font>
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1990 F-350 Dually 4X4 CC Rebuilt Turbo and NEW 7.3L DAS engine, rebuilt rear diff, Reman E4OD Stage 1 injectors Stage 1 pump Baumann recal kit and TDC for E4OD dead trans again...
2004 F-350 4X4 CC 6.0 PSD
2004 Wilderness 320dbhs TT
last i asked about the sou bowl, it was pretty much unanimous that the soup bowl is there to quiet the intake and it has no restrictive properties. Verified by a dyno, right?
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1993 Ford IDI 7.3L
F-250
ZF-5 speed 4 wheel drive
Class 5 hitch
D load tires <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />
super cab
18x,xxx miles.
Purchased 9-22-06
Ok, What else can he do? If this has no effect.
Bigger exhaust and better filter?
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1990 F-350 Dually 4X4 CC Rebuilt Turbo and NEW 7.3L DAS engine, rebuilt rear diff, Reman E4OD Stage 1 injectors Stage 1 pump Baumann recal kit and TDC for E4OD dead trans again...
2004 F-350 4X4 CC 6.0 PSD
2004 Wilderness 320dbhs TT
As I recall from the soup bowl discussion, we determined it made no difference because the guy doing the testing did not turn up the injection pump to take advantage of the increased airflow. He had no pyrometer on the engine and didn't want to damage it.
Someday when I am really bored and have nothing better to do, I'll have to mount an IDI intake manifold on the flowbench and test it with and without the soup bowl. I think I have an air filter housing around here somewhere, and I have a spare engine I can test on.
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1986 F250 2WD Super Cab XLT Lariat w/ 1996 front clip. Dually bed & van rearend (2" wider, allows spring clearance). 6.9 w/ approx 120,000mi. Banks non-wastegated turbo system, Beru ZD1A glowplugs, Delphi BB injectors, Kenworth pyrometer, vac/boost gauge, electric water temp/oil psi/voltmeter mounted in dash. 3" Mandrel-bent open exhaust. C6 trans, 3.54 gears. Okiegringo idler pulley. R134a A/C conversion. WMO/diesel blend in one tank.
I would think it would obviously help the airflow out (cfm), but as to whether or not it is a difference worth anything or not is another question. I did the mod to my friend's truck. Figured why not? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img] But I agree- if the IP is at the stock setting (which doesn't blow black smoke, hence not 'needing' the extra airflow) there won't be any difference at all. I'm sure it's still extremely small at that. COULD even hurt the airflow a little- the soupbowl could act as a 'waveguide' of sorts. Heck I dunno. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bleh.gif[/img]
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1994 Ford F250 4x4: 7.3L IDI factory turbo, supercab longbed, E4OD *DEAD*. ZF5 swap,Dana 60 swap, GM 14 bolt rear w/ 4.10s, 4" exhaust from stock downpipe back to a 5" stack, IP maxed=1100 degrees max pulling uphill, "modified" wastegate=11psi max,99+ F450SD cab/chassis leaf springs in rear
--motor/trans sold--
2000 VW Jetta TDI = 48+mpg
1997 Dodge 3500: 2WD Cab & Chassis, 12V Cummins, 47RE Automatic, Dana 80, 194,000mi. Parting out.
1989 12V VE Cummins out of Chevy C60? at the machine shop...going into the Ford.
The soup bowl mod will make it easier to change your air filter. I don't know of any improvement or decrease in performance. I have seen a Banks air cleaner cover that had that same 'bowl' in it. I believe it was on an NA engine and not a turbo, but I'm not sure.
To the OP, I would do a ram air mod with 4" ducting. I've not seen any water anywhere- even after driving in hard rains, and it's got to increase air flow. Have I measured anything? No.
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Work like there is a tomorrow and play like there isn't.
87 F250 Lariat SC LB 4X4 with an NA 6.9, C6 and 4.10's. Dana 50 IFS up front. 244K mi. 3" exhaust, WVO, Ram air. Thinking about propane or methanol/ water...
First diesel and a lot to learn....
96 F350 CC LB 4X4 AT 231K
Second diesel and still a lot to learn...
So after hearing all of this about removing the soup bowl is not a big deal in any power gains I think I will just leave it alone. All I ended up doing was removing the air intake setup all the way to the air filter housing and I got a deeper sound when I get on the gas, or at least I think so. Thanks for all the help
Thank You
Dan
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93 Ford 7.3 non-turbo 160K E40D
Stock Unfortunatley
You probably do have a slightly deeper sound, but you are also getting warmer air to the engine now. I'm told that is not best, but I don't have the knowledge to confirm or deny. I'd do the ram air.
Gale Banks actually did that back in the 80's, which lead to the development of his NA stinger kit for our IDI's. His air filter housing had better flow properties and he had graphs and illustrations that documented it. He also had proof that the soup bowl was too restrictive. Wish I had kept that stuff to scan and show you. There are many doubters that the soup bowl mod does anything, however there isn't anybody who has been able to prove that it hurts anything, so depending on which of the 3 air cleaner styles you have, you probably have nothing to loose by doing it, and potentially something to gain from it.
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His air filter housing had better flow properties and he had graphs and illustrations that documented it. He also had proof that the soup bowl was too restrictive. Wish I had kept that stuff to scan and show you.
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Yea, well you believe everything you read? Way back before I put my ATS on, after reading Banks stuff, I hooked up a PROPERLY WORKING 6" diameter shop vacume/pressure gauge, ran a temporary vacume like from engine intake to gauge, hooked my tlr. up, went up a nearby grade so my engine was demanding maximum intake air, after two trips I couldn't get the vacume gauge needle to even quiver.
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Wish I had kept that stuff to scan and show you.
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Or more to the point, wish I'd have written down the reply from the Banks "tech" when I asked him to explain my results, simply priceless!
Millions of $ worth of testing equipment and dyno #'s against a vac gauge? Guess who gets my vote! I was running the stock assembly and then an open element before I did the cold air induction and I can gaurantee if you go the 4" intake through the core support you will notice a difference. Check in the photo section under my username for some ideas.
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1979 f350 4x4 6.9 idi everything new or better than.