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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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Old 05-27-2012, 11:10 AM   #16 (permalink)
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RT did look at them:
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I just looked them up on the Spectra website - the 4150 is a tube and fin condenser - the 4153 is a parallel flow condenser - Chuckster has the solution (again...)
I know the 4150 shows for a '93 but the 4531 that shows for a '94 is the parallel flow ( like you need). It should fit with maybe changing the mouinting a little.
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Old 05-27-2012, 01:34 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jwhitfield2003 View Post
Just checked the manifold reading about 46 on the low side at 90 degrees outside.
What engine RPM, what was the high side pressure, what color was the orifice tube you installed?
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Old 05-27-2012, 03:15 PM   #18 (permalink)
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600-700 rpm, checked it at idle. Blue orifice tube. Not sure of highside pressure. POS Harbor Freight manifold lost it's oring on the high side quick connect. After replacing the lines, the high side hose came with an R-12 fitting so I can't run the red manifold line directly to that service valve either.
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Old 05-27-2012, 03:34 PM   #19 (permalink)
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if your using a r-12 orifice tube and filled it with 134a your not gonna get very good ac. you need to use a 134a orifice tube
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Old 05-27-2012, 03:53 PM   #20 (permalink)
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600-700 rpm, checked it at idle. Blue orifice tube. Not sure of highside pressure. POS Harbor Freight manifold lost it's oring on the high side quick connect. After replacing the lines, the high side hose came with an R-12 fitting so I can't run the red manifold line directly to that service valve either.
You need to know the high side pressure. What does the low side pressure do if you spray water on the condenser?
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Old 05-27-2012, 03:55 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Got the gauges working!

Low side at 48
High side at 275
Ambient temp 92 degrees
600-700 rpm
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Old 05-27-2012, 04:06 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Spray enough water on the condenser to make the HS maintain about 200 and see what the LS pressure goes to.
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Old 05-27-2012, 06:15 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Hit it with water and got it to 200 steady on the high side.

Low side held at 38

92 degrees outside
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Old 05-27-2012, 06:37 PM   #24 (permalink)
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And did the vent temps cool down really good? Under performing condenser...
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Old 05-27-2012, 10:16 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Vent temps were down about 10 degrees. Vents were blowing at 60 degrees down from 70 degrees at idle. Readings might be somewhat misleading, the truck only sat for about 15 min after a brief walmart trip, so everything was cooling decent from a 4 mile ride. Still a believer though, I will look into a better condenser.

Can anyone clarify the oil capacity for the system charged with 134a? I had all 4 seasons parts installed so I used the capacity info from their web site. I just substituted PAG for the Paraffin requirement.

Thanks for all the help everyone.
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Old 05-27-2012, 10:27 PM   #26 (permalink)
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You're ok on the oil. If you do open the system again, get a variable orifice tube from a 134a system (94 or later). You shouldn't have to replace the drier since it is new and you're just going to pop the system open long enough to swap the condenser.

You will need to add an ounce of oil to replace what is in the condenser. That said - I learned automotive a/c back in the 60s and have been following the same guidelines for oil replacement ever since. 3 oz for an evaporator, 1 for a drier, and 1 for a condenser. That may have been updated - if so, 444-4D will correct the amount.
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Old 05-27-2012, 10:42 PM   #27 (permalink)
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One of the best things about this crazy new digital world, is the the wealth of information shared on sites like this. I have learned new information in this thread without having to sit in a classroom THANKS RT.


Answered on my iPhone.
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:22 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I have no personal experience, but from all of the information that I have read on the internet that seems legit, variable orfice tubes (aka variable orfice valves or smart valves) are a waste of money. It seems you would be best of with a Ford Red .062 fixed orfice tube.

I still think that you might be overcharged on refrigerant since you are high on both the low and high side readings. However, airflow and condesner size may have a lot to do with it. I recently converted my 70 F250 to R134 and I added an larger aftermarket style condeser. It doesn't cool like my 07, but it does do pretty well for a retrofit.

Read these about VOVs:

Automotive AC Information Forum - ACKITS.COM

Automotive AC Information Forum - ACKITS.COM
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:30 PM   #29 (permalink)
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i have an 88 idi 7.3 that the r-12 ran out of so i went to the auto parts store and picked up the retro fittings and a largecan of 134a ac pro diy large can (32oz?) and a med sized can(16oz) threw on the high and low fittings hooked up the cans ran them through while jumpering the cutout switch and i get 35-40 degrees at speed and 45-55 at idle with 85 degree outside ive have had better luck goin this route than completely switching everything over did that on my 89 crown vic spent almost a grand and half the summer fighting with it before i figured out there was not enough oil and the other app liquids but once i got it working i got same num as my truck so i learned the hard way also i would recheck your levels if you have the manifold set it is eaiser to pinpoint the issue as far as the orfice? have always stuck to the oe or not bothered to replace so good luck to you
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:53 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Before you go way off base......... check the adjustment on the blend door in the glove box. Check my pics for the info/pic re adjustment and search my posts.
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