Almost lost the Truck - Page 3 - Diesel Forum

DSBlack · 03-13-2005, 12:00 AM

I am pulling a 32 foot with 1 slide Fleetwood Widerness. It is about 10-12 feet high and a flat back. Really slows me on the hills. I think the truck should pull it easier than it does, but...

Mike Lewis · 03-13-2005, 12:03 AM

That's quite a load. Tall, long, and heavy... Hills tend to kill these trucks. Not sure why they suffer so much more... maybe a better cam would help? I dunno...

Swervin · 03-13-2005, 09:28 AM

Well, I'm like most others here...have way 2 much in this thing to ever get even half of my money out unless I can get quite a few years of relatively trouble free use.

I pull a 30 ft Prowler 5er that has the panorama view, which means I have the tall nose and push lots of air. After propane, I now have the power to run down the road with the comfort that I think I need. so no more power is needed, and I think I will stay the course for the forseeable future.

RDBillsJr · 03-13-2005, 11:12 AM

[ QUOTE ]

Like most of us, your truck is also your hobby. These hobbies are expensive.

[/ QUOTE ]

Scotty,

Since you are a jeeper, I know you know that cost of repair is the price of your hobby. Think of your truck the same way. If all you wanted was a truck, then any late model stocker would do. You want something more from yours, so mods and repairs go with the territory. (Isn't [Fix Or Repair Daily the flip side of First On Race Day?)

All things considered, your truck is still less expensive than a new one.

d9d · 03-14-2005, 04:01 AM

I'm not sure what you're comparing it to, but it doesn't seem realistic to expect the truck not to be slowed by a 10,000 lb trailer when climbing hills.

You're running about 16,000 lbs GVW or more. That's the same as a typical medium truck with a half load. When you drive your car on the freeway, you're always passing those trucks, grunting along in the climbing lane at 30mph with their flashers on, right?

Just like them, you've got about 180-200hp pulling 16,000 lbs up a hill. Physics are the same for us all. It takes X horsepower-minutes to lift Y lbs up Z height against gravity.

If you really really want to pull 16K lbs uphill at 70mph, you'll need 300-400hp; and now you're talking about a whole differnt class of driveline; to stand up to that kind of torque. Maybe a stouter frame too.

It'd make more sense to get into a medium-duty truck (20K gvw class), with a 9-10 liter engine with perf. mods, and a truck-class tranny (we're talking a 300-400 lb tranny here), axle, and driveline. Put a 5th wheel on the back, and away you go.

You'll also have a 9,000 lb truck now, so stability will be improved while towing....and fuel economy will suck when not pulling.

As far as reliability, money, and wives, go....

c'mon Scotty...with turbo and propane, you are beating on that motor. You -gotta- expect it to lose reliability. 50hp more from propane? Man, that's over 25% more power than stock; without any beefing up of mechanicals.

Of course it breaks. Add turbo, and it's even worse. The IDI is mechanically marginal to begin with. Compare the rods and block webbing to a 5.9 Cummins....

Birken, I agree with you in a way, regarding the constant dollar-flow; but I always look at it in comparison to payments. Am I spending over $400/month, i.e. $5,000/year ?? If not, then I'm saving money over buying a new truck. Especially when factoring in the savings in insurance, registration fees, excise tax, etc.. Plus, I can do anything I want to the truck without getting a warranty hassle.

In any case, maybe I've just been lucky, but I haven't even come close to that level of expense in any of my vehicles.

I do all my own electrical and FI stuff; so that saves a lot. But even with trannies and other major items, I don't think I've ever averaged over $1,000/year on any of my trucks, big or small.

When I sell them, I typically break even; because I've bought them right and repaired and/or improved them during my ownership.

None of mine are modded for max-power like Scotty's though, so maybe my experience isn't valid.

I have always been a MPG freak; so my mods are always focused on that.

But since higher efficiency generally puts more HP at the shaft too; I usually end up with better HP as well; but not to a block-breaking level. And it's always accompanied by lower EGT's etc.; so it doesn't seem to hurt longevity for me.

I guess the bottom line is that there IS a limit to how much you can get out of any particular model of engine or tranny or whatever; and ya just have to recognize that limit, and not feed in any more propane than that!

Wives: as long as I keep the vehicles running, get our work done, and get out of them what I pay for them (i.e. stay even or better cash-wise), my sweetie seems content.

But this is a gal who learned how to drive a Cat, dig with an excavator, run a trommel, do oxy-acetylene cutting.....so maybe I'm just damn lucky in the first place...

nosliw · 03-14-2005, 10:47 AM

[ QUOTE ]
First rule of a happy marriage & truck ownership.

Never tell your wife how much your truck really costs.

[/ QUOTE ]

hehehe. my wife-to-be thinks that the bigger the tire, the cheaper they get! Oh yeah, and ARB air lockers cost about $200 each. And the exhaust fell of my f-250, so i had to replace it with stacks. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]

I'm not lying to her...i tell her what I put on my vehciles, i just "discount" the price structure a little.

come to think of it, i think i paid more for my last set of 38s that I paid for my first car! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif[/img]

Scotty,

I'm in the EXACT same boat as you. The F-250 is sitting out in my lot right now with a blown up t-case, 2nd gear syncros are out, and it's starting to get a little more blow-by that I would like.

Should I fix the broken T-case and sell it, and risk having to replace the engine in the near future? (Guessing that a used engine will run me at least 2 grand.)

Should I buy a complete parts truck, replace the t-case, and tranny, put the spare engine on a stand and build it ($5000 engine build, just to make it barely keep up with newer model stuff with a $350 box??)

Sell it for less that I've got in it (just put a LUK SMF, turbo rebuild at the tune of about $2000) take that money and put a down payment on a 96-97 used Cummins? (Heck, I still owe about $1200 on the note for the F-250!)

For me to fix it up like I want, I'd want to replace the tranny, t-case definately. would like to have a little more power from the engine...maybe propane..it needs new tires in a BAD way, and I'd go ahead and throw a 60 in the front.

Decisions, decisions....If i can find a used 95-97 Cummins for less than 10,000 in good shape, I'm afraid I'll be tempted to cut my losses on the F-250 and either sell her outright, or trade it off.

What to do......... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]

Conn

beretzs · 03-14-2005, 11:10 AM

Well, I am fixing my truck. I am doing the HG's and doing the brakes, and after that, I am going to keep the truck "until" something major happens. Once that happens it will become a major choice, but I have decided if I do get another truck, it will be with a warranty, as you guys are right, you need to get a newer truck with a warranty. Without it, I think I would probably be it the same boat I am currently in. Otherwise, the truck is getting fixed and as long as the truck holds up for awhile I am pretty sure the wife will be okay. Anyhow, thanks alot for all the help. I needed it. Scotty

agnem · 03-14-2005, 11:34 AM

Scotty, 122K is nothing. I bet you will have good cross hatching and minimal valve wear. Get the heads checked while you have them out, but don't let them do any machining! Just check for cracks - makes you sleep better at night. I needed a new valve seat, but that was it. Remember one other thing about trucks and women. If you don't push them, they will stay with you longer. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

beretzs · 03-14-2005, 11:53 AM

IT is acually just a hair under 138K right now. I would think there is still a ton of life left in the engine, I am going to have them check the heads for cracks and valve seats and then have them put the studs and Headgasket in. I am also going to have them retard the timing. Now, I have a question, when I have them retard the timing, Do I tell them, to retard the timing to 4* BTDC? Right now it is 6* BTDC. I want the IP retarded to take the propane a little more easily. I know the timing will affect my low end a little, but I would rather have it safe for propane. So I guess, am I telling them to retard the timing to 4* BTDC or am I am telling them to retard the timing to 12* BTDC? I am not sure on this.. Scotty

argve · 03-14-2005, 12:06 PM

[ QUOTE ]
Decisions, decisions....If i can find a used 95-97 Cummins for less than 10,000 in good shape, I'm afraid I'll be tempted to cut my losses on the F-250 and either sell her outright, or trade it off.

[/ QUOTE ]

just need to look a little - they are out there - got mine off TDR classified section.

agnem · 03-14-2005, 01:49 PM

[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img] You'd just love to see somebody else betray their trusted friend, now wouldn't you! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

Mike Lewis · 03-14-2005, 02:09 PM

If I lost the engine... After making payments on a car for the past four years... I'd sooner go the $10,000 route and have a shop put a bombed Cummins in my truck, sell the Banks turbo and any IDI parts that still were good for what I could get, and run her for 10 more years. Monthly payments are a severe pain!

I know what's in the rest of the truck at this point... starting with another used truck scares me.

Besides, the F-series has something the Dodge doesn't... a full crewcab.

d9d · 03-14-2005, 02:13 PM

ahhh...the ignominy of it all...

Conn, there's a guy near you (PA I think) who's parting a couple of trucks. He might have a T-case for ya. His name's Nick, at:
nscarp@msn.com

Scotty, why not set the pump where it's optimum, and just limit the propane-flow to a safe level? Then you'd have max safe power, plus good economical operation at all other power and rpm levels. Just a thought...

tuckerd1 · 03-14-2005, 05:01 PM

Scotty,

I know where you are coming from. I'm thinking along the same lines as you have done to your truck to do to mine.

I have had my sig truck since it was new. It had 5 miles on it when my wife brought it home from the dealer as a loaner while her car was having warranty work done to it. Imagine the shock when she drove into the drive!!! She knew I was looking at that model so she thought she would surpise me! Put 700 miles on it that weekend, so I thought I was obligated to buy it! Or so I told her!

Anyway, it has been a good truck even though it was low on power compared to PSD and Cummins. 185K miles on it and the only thing that has broke has been the water pump, fuel return line on IP and one GP. The body and interior are in VGC still and I like the truck.

I just want more power for towing! I'm not a hot rodder!

I have driven the new 6.0 and they are sweet, but the price sucks! I have not had a payment for almost 10 years now and I hate to go back to one. And, I'm like many here that I'm not going to buy someone elses troubles unless it is a super deal. I know what I have. IT is either improve it's performance or buy a new 6.0.

So I made my decision to improve my 93. But only if I do the labor. Can't justify the additional cost.

IP, injectors and GP - 700
Banks Sidewinder Kit - 2600
Gearvenders OD unit - 2800
Subtotal - $6100 Should be as strong as an unchipped PSD.

Should extra power get the tranny - 3000 for HD unit.
Should engine blow 4000-4500 for DAS sleeved drop-in.

Total ~ $13500 if all goes bad. Anything else is routine maintenace and repair you'll have on any vehicle.

1/3 the cost of a new 2005. It will be my baby and I know what I got with no monthly payments and lower insurance, title, tag, taxes.

Good luck on your decision. It's yours to make and no one elses.

Mike Lewis · 03-14-2005, 06:13 PM

We're kindred spirits.

More folks need to say, "NO!" to new truck prices and force manufacturers to sell trucks that meet requirements at an affordable price... without spending all their time in the shop.

Guess I can't talk too much... a CC/DRW/Automatic F-350 with the diesel probably cost about $26,000 new in 1991. Figure inflation/the annual uplift... probably about the same as a 2005 truck in 1991 dollars.