what would make my ammeter stay on after i turn off the key? it drops when i cycle glow plugs, so i'm -assuming- the gauge is working
it's killing my batteries, [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/depressed.gif[/img] any ideas
thanks
chris
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86 ford f350
4dr, dually
2wd
Weld Rims
ZF 5sp manual
BW 1356 transfer case
LuK clutch, single mass flywheel
89' 7.3
(changing to a 4x4 as soon as i have all parts)
Proud BOOB man too
My gauge does exactly the same thing. When I turn off the engine the gauge stays where it is when the engine shuts down. When I turn on, gauge drops due to glow plugs.
Is it in fact killing your batteries or are you just thinking out loud.
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
as far as i can tell -testing w/ my fluke- its still drawing power.
dead batteries in 2 or 3 days. batteries are 2 weeks old. should i be getting power there, or am i missing something obvious, it has been known to happen in the past
__________________
86 ford f350
4dr, dually
2wd
Weld Rims
ZF 5sp manual
BW 1356 transfer case
LuK clutch, single mass flywheel
89' 7.3
(changing to a 4x4 as soon as i have all parts)
Proud BOOB man too
My dad's van would randomly kill the batteries while sitting unused occasionally, we never figured out what the cause was. It hasn't done it in maybe half a year now, but we did end up having to change the alternator last fall, maybe it was something in the alternator creating a draw. To isolate the condition, maybe try unhooking the wires on the alternator and see if your draw goes away.
I don't know if that's the problem or not, just an idea.
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1986 F250 2WD Super Cab XLT Lariat w/ 1996 front clip. Dually bed & van rearend (2" wider, allows spring clearance). 6.9 w/ approx 120,000mi. Banks non-wastegated turbo system, Beru ZD1A glowplugs, Delphi BB injectors, Kenworth pyrometer, vac/boost gauge, electric water temp/oil psi/voltmeter mounted in dash. 3" Mandrel-bent open exhaust. C6 trans, 3.54 gears. Okiegringo idler pulley. R134a A/C conversion. WMO/diesel blend in one tank.
I replaced my alternator and regulator a few months ago. Bought them at O'Reilley's. Alternator would charge, but would go "full field" and start putting out 18vdc and blow fuses and circuit breakers. Even when sitting, turned off, it would drain the batteries stone dead in just a day. Took the alternator and regulator back and got replacements. Same result. I contemplated taking it to a electric shop, but would cost $60/hr to chase it down. So, on a whim, I went to Autozone and bought a new regulator. Everything works perfect now. Moral of the story....just because it's new, don't mean it ain't a "Piece of Autolite/CRAP". [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]OkieGringo
Ammeter or voltage meter? If it's the stock volt meter I think that's just the place they sit when you shut down. If you can get a meter on the back side and see if there is really anything there as far as voltage goes...
thanks for all the replys i'm checking the voltage regulator next
__________________
86 ford f350
4dr, dually
2wd
Weld Rims
ZF 5sp manual
BW 1356 transfer case
LuK clutch, single mass flywheel
89' 7.3
(changing to a 4x4 as soon as i have all parts)
Proud BOOB man too
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