Another air intrusion question

[bluemonster]

Have a 1994 Ford F-350 with the usual hard start problems. I have read many posts on the subject but jave. Few specific questions.
Each morning starts quickly on initial crank then sputters for a few seconds and stalls requiring a 8-10 second crank before ignition and continuous run (then fine for rest of day).
Looking to replace the injector return lines and noticed that there is an additional brass fitting/module screwed to the top of the right front injector (nearest the filter). This fitting is the only one, and that injector has the return line that goes back to the filter. It looks like it has a narrow brass band wrapped around the top of it which is split. Is this a check valve? If so is there a proper name for it to use when searching for a replacement?

Also, when removing the fuel line fitting atop each injector, then sliding the plastic return fitting off, I see one o-ring on top of the injector which looks as though it seals the plastic fitting to the injector. Is this the only o-ring/seal? I was going to Buy the OEM repair kit from Advance Auto and want to be sure I get all the parts I need at once.
Any suggestions to any of my questions would be appreciated.
Thanks!!


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[chuckster57]

The piece on top of #1 injector is a timing adaptor. The steel line to that injector is shorter to accommodate it. There are 2 O rings on each injector, and a complete kit should have all the parts needed. Unless your taking out the injectors, just save the copper washers from the kit.

MidWest Fuel Injection has excellent price on the kit, I haven't checked Advanced Auto since we don't have any here.

[bluemonster]

Thank you! Could the timing adapter be a source of air intrusion itself, and is it necessary to leave in the system as I considered removing it temporarily to help troubleshoot where the source of the leak is?? Knowing the line is shorter, would you recommend removing it, replacing it, or neither?? I noticed it is steel and hexagonal but there is a brass band around the top and the band is loose and broken at the solder joint.

[chuckster57]

The timing adaptor is threaded onto the top of the injector and then the steel line is threaded onto it. As long as the threads are intact and seated properly, I doubt that is a source of air. I would leave it as is.

[drinkypoo]

If you really must remove it, go get a replacement hard line from a van. They have the timing ferrule on a different cylinder.

[91dirtydiesel]

Viton orings #111 , only a couple bucks off amazon if u wanna replace just the 2 orings per injector

[chuckster57]

I got a big of 50 shipped to the house for under $7.00 from McMaster Carr.

[bluemonster]

Thanks, Iwill try a few things and hopefully won't have to re post.

[chuckster57]

At least come back and tell us what you did, and if it fixed the problem.

[bluemonster]

Will do. Just picked up the return line repair kit. While prepping for the job for tomorrow, was reading a link from here to "dieselmann's" site and he spoke of the check valve between the return line and filter housing having a ball and spring check valve. Lo and behold I took mine out and the fitting has neither a ball or spring probably a result of past servicing. Is this part a Ford Dealer only part or do you know if they are available at a NAPA or the like??

[chuckster57]

With the age of these trucks, I bet you would have better luck at Navistar/International. IIRC the check ball is plastic, and the spring is very light.

[bluemonster]

Good idea. Found a nearby dealer and will hit them up Monday morning. Overnight I did a clear line check between the filter housing output and IP input. I looped the hose and found an air bubble on the filter side of the loop so I suspect the intrusion is from the filter housing....

[drinkypoo]

the ball is either plastic or glass, I sure hope it's plastic. I lost my spring and put in a stronger one (slightly... if it were too strong it wouldn't work) and it improved my morning starting.

[bluemonster]

Was asked to post my solution. Seems replacing the fuel line return system, hoses, caps, orings, and clamps did the trick. No air in the fuel line and good starts for the last 6 days. Thanks for the suggestions. A cheap and quick fix too...about $30 bucks in parts and an hour+ of time.