another fipl question sorry - Diesel Forum

rodman68 · 03-03-2008, 11:50 PM

Got a flashing from the od light the other day that cleared the next time I started truck up. But of course looked on this site for answers and noticed the fipl adjust procedure btw thanks for all the info that is posted on this site!!! I have really soft shifts with this truck since I bought it, today checked voltages .86v at idle and 3.76 at full throttle. Went to adjust the fipl and I dont know but who ever tightened those stupid torx screws needs a thumpin on the head. I stripped one cant get it out, tomorrow I will see if those easy out things work. My real question is should I go ahead and purchase a new fipl just in case? I have a gray one but it has some type of tamper glue or paint to show if its been replaced is it possible this is factory original? I dont know the history on this truck ie original ip maybe but I do know it looks like injectors are original due to the gray paint on them. While running up thru the throttle the voltage seemed steady but I was using a fluke 179 digital meter, I would think a analog meter would work better. The other question is the lower the voltage the softer the shifts and the higher the voltage the firmer the shifts.

Snotzalot · 03-03-2008, 11:59 PM

It's recommended to replace the TPS at 60,000 miles as a normal PM.

Bill1013 · 03-04-2008, 12:02 AM

Get a new FIPL (TPS) Throttle Position Sensor the BLACK one. Set the low volts at 1.1 with engine warm and at idle speed 650 -700. Check valve cover for correct idle speed. There is a change to the transmission that will give you firmer shifting, requires pan pulling and replaceing a spring in the control valve body. I think resetting your low point voltage may be enough.

rodman68 · 03-04-2008, 12:44 AM

Since I am not sure what is or was done on this truck the 25 bucks is some insurance well spent. I have a transgo tugger kit waiting for install in this truck I think I will order one of the external trans filter that uses the spin on filter. Is there a sponsor on this site that has those?

rodman68 · 03-10-2008, 01:47 PM

Replaced fipl to 1.2volts idle and it was at 4.3volts at full throttle. Can I adjust that back down some? The shifts points are pretty high rpms without a load and just accelerating mildly. I notice it more the 2-3rd shift at around 33-35mph it will shift down if I let of the pedal.

cdnsarguy · 03-10-2008, 02:12 PM

Rodman......

The engine must be warm but turned off... key on..................KOEO

To set to specs:
With a warm engine and the idle speed set to your engine specs probably 650 in drive (curb idle) shut off the engine.
Now with "Key On Engine Off". First connect the negative lead of a volt meter to the negative battery post, then place a paperclip straightened to slide up the side of the center wire for a good contact, touch the positive lead to the paperclip. Electrical connector must be connected to the FIPL.
If your FIPL requires resetting loosen the small torx screws and attempt to attain the correct setting. You can loosen the large bolts on the bracket if necessary but try to retain the centering on the FIPL/blade.
Your trying to get closed throttle voltage: 1.1 V, wide open throttle voltage: minimum of 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V.
If you can attain those #s then tighten the screws/bolts and ensure the voltage is at the correct setting after tightening. You can also do a slow sweep of the fuel lever from idle to WOT to see if there are any blanc (dead) spots, much easier with a really $$$ meter with capture mode. If you still find there are hard shifts or very soft slippery shifts you can adjust to suit your driving but be warned slippery shifts will burn the trans up.

icanfixall · 03-10-2008, 02:24 PM

This voltage is to be .96 at the lowest and 1.02 at the highest. The lower voltage will give a softer shift and higher gives a harder shift. Any voltage above 5 will cause the cpu to shut down and the trans will be in "limp home mode". Are you using a digital voltage meter? They work the best. I test mine on the batteries before I set the tps. I had just installed my rebuilt motor and replaced my tps. I set the voltage at 1.0 volts. It seemed low so I rechecked it. Ok... Well, after around 200 miles the torque converter wouldn't shift into OD. I ordered a trans from Brian at BTS. While waiting for the trans I checked my volt meter and thought the readings were suspect and low. I bought a new one and sure enough, mine was reading way low. The new meter showed I was running around .76 volts at idle. That didn't supply the E4OD electronics enough voltage to hold the clutches firm enough. So, low voltage cost me a trans... I did have almost 250,000 miles on the Jaspers E4OD anyway...BTW, the BTS trans is all they say it is. There torque converters have 150 square inches of clutch material where the stock converters have only 25 square inches of material.... Big differances in how it locks up too....

rodman68 · 03-10-2008, 02:30 PM

I thought I read that it should be 1.2volts at idle. I will reset today to 1.1v and see what the upper end is doing.

rodman68 · 03-10-2008, 02:42 PM

I am using a fluke model 179 DVM should be pretty accurate but I could verify this between another meter I have can't remember the name of that one though. I wouldn't trust those cheapo dvm anytime if you need real accurate readings.

icanfixall · 03-10-2008, 05:17 PM

If you think about it the voltage between the high and low voltage is really not much. Its only about 1/4th volt if you use the 1.2 high reading. I need to look into this a bit. I've been doing this so long I may have forgotten the high amount....

rodman68 · 03-11-2008, 11:31 PM

Set it at 1.13 at idle and full throttle was 3.93 with very good shift points.
But this truck is really making me mad looks like the alternator went bad the previous owner left the receipt for a lifetimer from napa.

cdnsarguy · 03-12-2008, 12:52 AM

Alternator going bad could have been a miss diagnosis by someone...... could of been week batteries or bad connection or worn brushes.......and they just changed it.

rodman68 · 03-17-2008, 12:07 PM

Napa gave me another alternator but while looking around noticed that les schwab put in 650 ca batteries these batts were replaced the same time as alternator. I tested them with a 80 amp load tester I know 80 amps is a little draw but the voltage did go down to 11.0. Looks like some new batteries in my future also most likely will replace one at a time and they will be walmarts.

cdnsarguy · 03-17-2008, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Looks like some new batteries in my future also most likely will replace one at a time and they will be walmarts.

Always replace both at the same time........ or one may degrade the other...

farnereinar · 03-28-2008, 03:30 PM

alright for my problem with my 1-2 shift i got 1.01 at idle and around 3.68 at full throttle, is this good enough or should i adjust it that .09? its the gray and no dead spots

going to change the fluid next, shall i do anything while i have the pan dropped for my 1-2 shift point?

also realized it has a bad miss somewhere, around 1200rpm the entire motor shakes and shutters bad.....is there anything simple to start off with...it has a new air filter... or do i need to dig in and replace injectors and the pump?