I just swapped out the 7.3 engine in my truck and it started up within the first 15 seconds of cranking. For about two days the truck started within 5 seconds of cranking. However, starting on the third day starting have become very hard. Everytime WTS comes on and stays on for about 8 seconds with no clicking afterwards. Here are some information about this problem:
1. Brand new glowplugs (all beru brand)
2. Battery terminals were cleaned, tightened down and batteries are not drained.
3. Brand new (not rebuilt) gear reduction starter
Is there a way to check the starter without taking it off the truck? Any chance I may have wired the controller incorrectly?
well what did you do between day 2 and 3?
is the high idle switch working?
how cold is it outside where you are if youre in az then you have a problem elseware if its can. than you got to think its cold as my freezer up there lol
but no clicking is a bad relay or controler
controler is 100 or so but a relay is only 20 bucks
the relay is just a starter relay if you have one laying around
and a tip if you change it rember where everything goes
and i have a gp test to test controler gps etc. so pm me if you want it
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, 3:73 dana 80 rear, srw, dana 50 front, heavy duty leaf springs, back up camera, 20$ wallyworld fog lamps, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, brush guard with front mount hitch, 32" steering tires all around, ac power converter,jeep bucket seats, deezee runningboards (cab only),cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, 2 trucklight worklights on front stake pocket each side,high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, 6600 lbs with all my junk
1. Engine is turning over, but I can't say if the starter sounds different from day one.
2. Aside from starting and driving the truck I did not touch anything under the hood.
3. Not sure how to determine if high idle switch is working. Will this cause hard starting?
4. Temperature in our area is about 60 degrees F.
Maybe its just me, but I can't count the number of starter revolution. It seems to be turning over rather fast. One thing I noticed is that the Wal-Mart batteries I bought two years ago were only holding 880 and 860 CCA right before the engine swap. After the engine swap, they only hold 800 and 860 CCA after charging them. When I first bought them, their CCA were about 1080. I'm still not getting GP cycling after the WTS goes out after about 8 seconds. Here are some of the other things I noticed:
1. When I turn on the key (but not start) I hear one click and the ammeter on the dash goes to about 2 amps and after the WTS light goes out and in another 15 seconds, the ammeter jumps to 4 amps and holds right there until I turn the key to off.
2. While I'm cranking the starter I noticed that the temperature gauge on the dash increases from cold to extreme H position.
I don't have any other batteries with CCA greater than 900 because all my other vehicles have gas engines. With the temp gauge I may have screwed up on the wiring.
I took the batteries back to Wal-Mart and they tested them both. Their equipment determined these values:
1. 13.10 volts & 907 CCA
2. 13.12 volts & 851 CCA
Their conclusion was that the batteries were good.
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