ok i got the new rad ($334 us free shipping no duty at the border) i went to tractor supply for 3 jugs of antifreeze($50) 4 jugs distilled water ($4) the new antifreeze is red the old is green.my question is do i have to flush all the green antifreeze out before i add the red antifreeze(might need 1 more jug of red) what is the proper way to flush the system
Don't make this harder than it is.
Drain what you can, and refill.
I recall 32 quarts, that 8 gallons total, 4 AntiFreeze, 4 water. mix 50/50 as you go
I would purchased pre treated (w/SCA's) anti-freeze
Drive it until it drops
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'93 F-250 IDI, 4x4, K&N, no soup bowl, stock, with 265,XXX miles 5 speed, 3.55, kind of new LUK clutch, runs great, starts great, it is great. The truck is getting old.
as a matter of fact! It had John Deere (green) antifreeze in it from the P/O. I bought "FLEET CHARGE" from TSC and distilled water from wallyworld. mixed it in a couple of 5 gal jugs. Drained the radiator and then refilled with the RED stuff. made an ugly color but it's working good..Took the wife to the doctor in 98 degree weather with the A/C on max and the engine was 198-203 through town.
Fleet charge is pre charged with SCA's
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
1997 Jayco 323RKS fifth wheel w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here
Above the starter is a block drain, after draining the radiator, remove this plug to drain the engine.
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Regards,
Paul - Pocono Mtns. USA '90 E350 7.3L Ex-Ambulance High Top 400K Miles, No Turbo, Stock Stock stock, No ELC! (Extended Life Coolant) & 10 Oz. Bars Stop Leak
Don't make this harder than it is.
Drain what you can, and refill.
I recall 32 quarts, that 8 gallons total, 4 AntiFreeze, 4 water. mix 50/50 as you go
I would purchased pre treated (w/SCA's) anti-freeze
Drive it until it drops
"drive it until it drops" i work hard for every penny i make(as most of us do) and take care of everything i own.i have a habit of doing things right or i just dont do it!!!
Above the starter is a block drain, after draining the radiator, remove this plug to drain the engine.
I forgot that part of the change...was dealing with other projects at the same time. and now I have a Vacum pump with nasty sounding bearings...Oh well just MORE to do before we leave on Tues. I did undo the hose that comes from the bottom of the rad to the heater line. The drain thingy ( can't say it here) is broken off on the bottom of the rad.
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
1997 Jayco 323RKS fifth wheel w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here
well anything will work to be honest but if you keep scas up youll be good
i added a few pieces of pipe to redierct coolant flow from the rad to the bucket i had just 3/8 npt plumbing
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, back up camera, 20$ wallyworld fog lamps, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, brush guard with front mount hitch and off road lights, headache rack, 33" mudders, ac power converter,factory buckets from quadcab, power windows and locks now, deezee runningboards (cab only),cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, 6600 lbs with all my junk
i plan to add propane kit, stake body bed, gn hitch,western style mirrors, holset turbo 100mm intake, and a lot more
new motto: use common sense its a great gift
and if that dont work overkill it
Thanks Trampsdieseltruck! Already drained, refilled and running FINE.
Did you test the DCA-4 coolant level and adjust it?
Without it being at the proper level, you WILL have cylinder corrosion issue some time in the future.
First cylinder #8 will get pinholes letting coolant into the motor oil, not long after you sleeve #8, cylinder #7 will go out and you will be broke chasing pinholes!
I believe sleeving 2 cylinder back then cost about as much as a new block.
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Gray 1991 F250 standard cab, 7.3, E4OD, 3.55:1, stock wheels and tires.
Verified 19 mpg city taking off slow as hell the shutting down at red lights, and with the radiator grill blocked flush, no bed cover, "drag shoot" mirrors on I get 24 mpg at 50 to 55 mph on the freeway empty!
However, with a bed cover, no mirrors and Hydroxy
Last edited by archangel : 11-27-2009 at 12:52 PM.
Put in 4 gallons of the Zerex G-05 and 2 gallons of water. Since it holds 8 gallons total, I assume the remaining water was in the engine. If not, I have a huge air buble and will be back here soon crying.
BTW: Used distilled water to flush and refill.
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1987 E-350 6.9L N/A
C-6 w/Dana 70 3.54
43K original miles & NO mods
Las Vegas, NV
If you didn't drain the block you are probably good, if you did drain the block you haven't bled the system properly.
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Regards,
Paul - Pocono Mtns. USA '90 E350 7.3L Ex-Ambulance High Top 400K Miles, No Turbo, Stock Stock stock, No ELC! (Extended Life Coolant) & 10 Oz. Bars Stop Leak
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