Trying to remove the fan clutch on my '91 (doing the water pump) Can't get it to break loose. Any neat little tricks to hold the pulley still? I got the wrench set from autozone, so I have the right wrench for the nut, and I know it's left hand threads, but no luck so far.... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]
Sorry to all the loyal 7.3 guys, but I traded my '91 7.3 in on a 2002 F250 Ex cab V10 4x4. SCT Xcalibrator2 with tunes by Powerplay Performance. 285/75/16 Toyo M/T's. Took a long time to get used to the ping-pop of a cooling catalytic converter...LOL.
'85 Bronco swapped up to a 302 4bbl from the 300 I6, NP435 4spd, NP208, 32x11.50x15 Radial RVT's, Soon to be 6.9 turbo powered.
86 F350 Cab&Chassis with a dump bed. 2wd 6.9 and 4 spd tranny. No mods to engine.
Leave the belt on for one, and hold tight. If that does not work the only other thing I can tell you, and its only if you want to spend the money for it, is that MAC tools makes an awesome little adapter for an air hammer that makes it act as an impact to get those of, its super easy, but kinda pricy for the do-it-yourselfer
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3 X 06 Ford F250s 6.0 stock 4X4, just got two more, so now 5!
2003 Ford F250 4" Lift, Chipped, 4X4, Diamond Box
2000 Ford F250 7.3 PSD, 4X4, Stock
1999 Ford F350 7.3 PSD, SRW, 4X4, Chipped
1994 Ford F250 7.3 IDIT, 4X4, Pump cranked way up, fuel milage down way low, 6 inch lift on 315/75r16, still rides like a caddy for its day.
And I grow asparagus.
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Get a buddy to hold the wrenches while you swing away with a 3lb. hammer. Tim
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LOL I got my brother to hold the waterpump pliers while I turned the fan clutch wrench....let's just say that the wrench is no longer a nice square 48mm (love those Autozone rental tools, if anyone needs a fan clutch wrench don't get the one from the Logan UT Autozone after today!)...either gonna have to buy an expensive heavier duty wrench or pay someone else to experience the frustration... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img]
Sorry to all the loyal 7.3 guys, but I traded my '91 7.3 in on a 2002 F250 Ex cab V10 4x4. SCT Xcalibrator2 with tunes by Powerplay Performance. 285/75/16 Toyo M/T's. Took a long time to get used to the ping-pop of a cooling catalytic converter...LOL.
'85 Bronco swapped up to a 302 4bbl from the 300 I6, NP435 4spd, NP208, 32x11.50x15 Radial RVT's, Soon to be 6.9 turbo powered.
86 F350 Cab&Chassis with a dump bed. 2wd 6.9 and 4 spd tranny. No mods to engine.
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Get a buddy to hold the wrenches while you swing away with a 3lb. hammer. Tim
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LOL I got my brother to hold the waterpump pliers while I turned the fan clutch wrench....let's just say that the wrench is no longer a nice square 48mm (love those Autozone rental tools, if anyone needs a fan clutch wrench don't get the one from the Logan UT Autozone after today!)...either gonna have to buy an expensive heavier duty wrench or pay someone else to experience the frustration... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img]
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hit on the end of the nut with a air hammer with a chisel on it.
hit on th eside fo the nut so it will loosen it............
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lots of junk
97 f350, 7.3L, 2wd, auto, exhuast, intake, injectors, chip, IC, big gooseneck.
93 f350. 7.3L idi turbo, 2wd, 5 speed, dually. Pics
I did the water pump on my 94 and the flimsy Autozone wrench was far too small so I used some 1/2" band iron and welded my own super heavy duty wrench. Worked great, looks kinda like a triton. Just one more to add to the pile of homemade tools.
-Rob
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'94 F250 XLT 7.3L. Turbo Diesel 4X4 "OFF ROAD" package, X-Cab, 4.10 grears, Now a 5 speed, original IP, just did injectors,"Wallace mod" 3.5" turbo outlet housing and 3.5" DP and straight piped exhaust, 113K on the clock. Repainted it black. Ispro pyro and boost gauges, turned up pump.
I gave up...trying to move this week, and I had better things to do with my time, so I gave it to the Ford dealer to deal with. $200 bucks or so is worth it for the time I'll save. I stole my Brother's truck for a couple of days...Such is the life. Thanks for the replies.
Sorry to all the loyal 7.3 guys, but I traded my '91 7.3 in on a 2002 F250 Ex cab V10 4x4. SCT Xcalibrator2 with tunes by Powerplay Performance. 285/75/16 Toyo M/T's. Took a long time to get used to the ping-pop of a cooling catalytic converter...LOL.
'85 Bronco swapped up to a 302 4bbl from the 300 I6, NP435 4spd, NP208, 32x11.50x15 Radial RVT's, Soon to be 6.9 turbo powered.
86 F350 Cab&Chassis with a dump bed. 2wd 6.9 and 4 spd tranny. No mods to engine.
There's a nifty little trick.. I'll "ATTEMPT" to explain it.
Take the belt, you took off the pully for the fan. Take it and put it around the pully.. then take one side of the belt and hold it in place, pulling the other side of the belt over the top of the belt you have held in place. (does this make sense at all??) anyway, if done right and you can understand my explanation all you need to do is hold on to the end of the belt keeping tension on it, and the more pressure you actually put on it, the tighter it will get and the better it will hold.
maybe someone else can explain this better??
dave
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1992 f250 109k miles, 7.3 diesel.. aftermarket exhast.( the only mod) 5 spd manny tranny... 4.10, and 12,000lb warn winch.. AND a autometer pyromter.. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
Ya should've gone to NAPA and bought the tools off the revolving rack they have. I also bought the pulley holder. For that $200.00 you gave the "Stealership" you could have sent me a round-trip airline ticket and I would've gotten a little vacation. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]OkieG
Here's my trick, it's never failed......Put the wrench on the hex and hold that (It even worked once with only channel locks) Then get a long punch (preferably brass) and put it on one of the bolt heads that hold the pully to the water pump. This will "impact wrench" effect the fan clutch loose. You have to stop and think a minute since you are holding the nut still and turning the bolt, and it's a left hand thread. It has never failed. The first time it was an emergency and I thought wow I got away with it, didn't hurt the water pump. After about 9 more times, I decided it must not be going to hurt the water pump. I finally bought the tool set since the mechanics always had to come get me to do it (cutting into my TDS time!)
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Mine: 91 F250 Reg Cab 4x4 5spd 7.3IDI 4.10LS 145,000 miles. Banks Sidewinder 92 D60 F axle w 97 brakes and Powerlock. Lift: about 4" over stock 250. 33x12.50x16.5 Pro Comp MTs Magnaflow 12" muffler. Sees dirt everyday. Used to haul hay, wood, feed cows, check fence.
Hers: 96F250 CCSB 7.3 PSD 4x4 5spd 3.55 LS 190,000 miles. Puchased 7/03, Looked for a 5spd CCSB for a year!Dana 60 front axle, at stock F350 height (for now) Energy Poly bushings, Bilsteins, 305/70/16 Pro Comps on 16x10 Weld Outbacks, AFE Pro7,TYMAR 3x3.5x4 downpipe,TYMAR 5" straightpipe, gutted EBV, IH Non EBV pedistal,New Alliant AC Injectors,(stage 1)Cal reg kit, SBC Con O clutch, permenent clutch bushing fix, AC mod with a different twist, AMP Powersteps with custom brackets and wiring(one of 2 OBS trucks with them according to AMP) Line of Fire. Sees dirt everyday.
My Company pickup: 86 F250 6.9 C6 320,000 miles Co trucks 5 89 to 94 IDI's, plus about 50 more diesels.
Diesel Mechanic 28 yrs
I have had good luck by using a big wrench i got at a place that sells that cheap tool stuff from China. Get the wrench i think it is 2 and a 1/4 or 1/8 i for get. Leave the belts on tight. I sawed a slot in the lower part of the fan sharoud to get it off easy.
Put that big wrench on the fan clutch nut and hit it with a rubber hammer as hard as you can to the driver side while standing in front of the truck. It will take several licks on the wrench and it will start to turn.
When you put it back on with all the fan belts on tight hit it torward the passenger side and make sure it is tight.
One thing i like to is to clamp a piece of plywood on the radaitor while doing this and it might save a ding on the radaitor. And crank the engine when i got ever thing tight and finished with that plywood on the radaitor just for a few seconds and stop the engine. If the fan comes loose it will hit the radaitor. The diesel stops so quick it will unscrew that fan in a flash and it will hit the radaitor. I new radaitor cose about $460 for my van. Been there done that.
Good luck
Dwight
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Lepper, I think what your trying to explain is sorta like the craftsman strap wrench, but you are using the belt as the wrench.
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Ya there we go.. Works beautifully and no tools need to be purchased for it.. unless you really want to but em.
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1992 f250 109k miles, 7.3 diesel.. aftermarket exhast.( the only mod) 5 spd manny tranny... 4.10, and 12,000lb warn winch.. AND a autometer pyromter.. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
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