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1993 Crewcab 4x4 coverted extendcab,7ft bed , upgraded rebuilt E4OD w/ shift, new shocks, 3.55, Eagle aluminum wheels,1996 bumper, front buckets, ATS turbo w/ 4inch custom exhaust in process,60 gal aux tank for alt-- err extra fuel
no dont get me wrong i am usin used motor oil,,,have access to a lot of it and am wondering about just cutting it with kero instead of using diesel as i have been,,,i just add a lil veggie for the smell,,,it the exhaust doesnt smell bad if i use a lil veggie,,,but the most i use is is used motor oil,,
,so if i used umo and kero it would take care of the drying i 'd think,,,jus wanna try it
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91 f250 4x4,, e rated tires,,cab lights,,,straitpiped to rear,,,,brand spankin new cd player,,,flatbed with gooseneck,,,one hellava bale hauler,,,
international 856 wide front and super h wide front ,, both have three points for haulin those bales.
63 w200 power wagon17 inch e rated tires,,six popper lil slow but she'll go anywhere
if i was runing umo or anything but diesel through my diesel filter id wrap the filter with soft bendable copper in the winer especialy. wrap it tight and cut your heater hoses and insert a Y or T fitting out the engine to your copper coil and back to the water pump with a 2nd T fitting . if you start on diesel and let it warm up and then switch tanks that will give you thicker fuel a warm up and keep it from cloging your one and only filter. i do it on my waist oils filter. works great! im planing on doing the same thing with my diesel filter. starting on diesel then when my engine get to about freezing temp swithing to my rear stock tank and runing B100. then when my waist oils tank is up to a hot temp switch to waist oils. then when its time to turm off end up back with diesel! i just need to start brewing bio!
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work truck - 86 Ford F250 with 6.9L Navistar IDI non-turbo diesel 4x4 dana 60 rear, dana 44 front, with 3.54s, C-6 with cooler, manual walbro frb-13 fuel pump, manual motor craft ZD-9 glow plugs, K&N air filter with homemade cold air intake and no soup bowl! napa heavy duty tractor truck batterys, homemade waist oils "conversion" burns everything also runing on B100. working on full work truck set up...
cruzin' car - 94 subaru justy 2 door hatchback 1.2L gas 5 speed everything works!
if i was runing umo or anything but diesel through my diesel filter id wrap the filter with soft bendable copper in the winer especialy. wrap it tight and cut your heater hoses and insert a Y or T fitting out the engine to your copper coil and back to the water pump with a 2nd T fitting . if you start on diesel and let it warm up and then switch tanks that will give you thicker fuel a warm up and keep it from cloging your one and only filter. i do it on my waist oils filter. works great! im planing on doing the same thing with my diesel filter. starting on diesel then when my engine get to about freezing temp swithing to my rear stock tank and runing B100. then when my waist oils tank is up to a hot temp switch to waist oils. then when its time to turm off end up back with diesel! i just need to start brewing bio!
There are much more effective heat exchangers available for liquids than that. I'm not sure you'd raise the temp more than 10 or 20 degrees. I'd want it raised over a hundred or so on cold days to run UMO or veggie.
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2006 GMC K3500 CC DRW 4x4
1994 F-350 DRW PS w/ zf5
1996 Town Car
skunk yes your plan works
mgraveman you are also correct... heat exchanger is much more efficient and less headache to install. If the fuel temp is too low and the viscosity is higher then its tougher to get it through your filter. Youll feel like the filter is clogged. If you havent experienced that then good for you. When the ambient temperature(regular outside temperature) is up its not such a big deal. Have run 100% wmo in the summer to test. It works but I still cut it so I am "officially" using diesel and "adding " wmo if you get my drift
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1993 Crewcab 4x4 coverted extendcab,7ft bed , upgraded rebuilt E4OD w/ shift, new shocks, 3.55, Eagle aluminum wheels,1996 bumper, front buckets, ATS turbo w/ 4inch custom exhaust in process,60 gal aux tank for alt-- err extra fuel
skunk yes your plan works
mgraveman you are also correct... heat exchanger is much more efficient and less headache to install. If the fuel temp is too low and the viscosity is higher then its tougher to get it through your filter. Youll feel like the filter is clogged. If you havent experienced that then good for you. When the ambient temperature(regular outside temperature) is up its not such a big deal. Have run 100% wmo in the summer to test. It works but I still cut it so I am "officially" using diesel and "adding " wmo if you get my drift
oh--your using a high concentration---of fuel "additive" ,,,,,works for me..
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94 f250 idi turbo sc e4od alum fac rims 149,289 --dana 60 frt with posi--10.25 rear w/posi--shouldnt get stuck!! ats turbo 3" parts on--what a diff from stock turbo!!!!!--- also 96 F250 with 305,000 is fixed!!-- 7.3 rattler-also 85 6.9-needs new engine!! tired!!
I have a 2001 F-250 7.3L that has 162k miles. Since the warranty expired, I've been using used oils(motor, ATF, gear) in my fuel tank. I have an endless supply and I cut it in at about a 15-25% used oils and the rest #2 diesel. I vary the ratio depending on how clean the used oils are and it's often higher if I'm pouring in ATF. I always let the used oil settle several days before I filter it. I change my fuel filter every 15-20k and I haven't had any problems at all.
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