Ball Joints and bearing race removal - Diesel Forum

nateccie · 07-07-2005, 12:31 AM

I've got everything torn apart, I just can't figure out how to actually remove the ball joints.

Also, how do you remove bearing races and the spindle bearing that are pressed in?

One last thing is there is a little bearing right at the cap over the automatic hubs, mine is broken. Autozone and Napa can't seem to replace it. Any ideas on a source?

Thanks for the help

-Nate

Greg77 · 07-07-2005, 01:04 AM

I cut mine out with a torch if your careful it works fine. If you can get it off take it to a shop, a local alignment shop did mine. They have a press to put the new balls in and they can press out the old one too. After you get all done you will probably need to get a realingment anyway, they will probably cut you a deal if they can do the alignment, mine didn't charge me anything.

Greg

nateccie · 07-07-2005, 10:32 AM

I overstated a little bit. I got everything apart except the ball joints are still holding the ?yoke? onto the axle. I removed the cotter pin from the top ball joint and took off that nut that the pin was holding. There's a nut on the bottom ball joint that isn't moving too...

yaric008 · 07-07-2005, 11:43 AM

You need to get one of those fork looking things. You wedge it inbetween the spindle and the axel deal and bang it with a hammer and it'll all pop right off. I tried banging it all with a hammer the first time i did mine and it wouldn't budge, i had about given up until i went to a local autoparts place and found a fork big enough, then i went home and tried and bam, came right off. I could've saved a whole day if someone had mentioned that. I got mine from pepboys, they were the only ones that had the fork with a wide enough gap.

bgfire · 07-07-2005, 11:56 AM

I don't know if you have any auto parts places that rent tools nearby, or a general rental business, but they may have a ball joint press for rent. There are a couple of places locally here that rent them. They look like a big C-clamp on steroids, and work pretty well at pushing the ball joints out, and new ones in.

Wheel bearing races can be driven out with a drift punch and a hammer. The new ones should be installed with a brass punch if possible to protect the bearing surface.

I have not removed the spindle bearings before, so can't help with that.

Good luck! Not a fun job, but can be done.

Bill

dbennett48 · 07-07-2005, 02:02 PM

Spindle bearings are a slip fit. They will come right off if you pull on them.

Dave

mndorf · 07-13-2005, 05:13 PM

I'm a little late, but I just replaced mine a couple weeks ago.

The traditional way to remove the tapered shaft on the ball joints is to hammer the round shoulder holding the tapered stud (the end with the big nut). Ford's manual says so too. I tried for an afternoon but the secret was to hit well and hit firm. This required removing the dust cover and cranking the steering all the way to get a good swing (big hammer). With that both steering knuckles came out.

The cylindrical fit in the other end is a little tougher. A clamp, or press would be best. I used a good quality big clamp with a brass fine thread, with well placed hits to help it out. It is hard but can be done.

For bearing races (the cone), carefully punch them back in, I like to go 180* across and then 90* degrees. Don't get them ****ed, hold the big punch firmly so you stay on the thin edge.

Bruce